Tractor quit in the field today...

[clintmo]

I was mowing today for a couple hours. I jumped off to chase away the neighbor dogs, leaving the tractor running in neutral, mower off, and as I was headed back to it it died, as if it were out of gas. It wasn't. It would not start again. Turned over but no fire. I didn't get much time to troubleshoot but I was able to rule out any fuel issue. When I get back to it, what's the next most likely thing to check? What would cause it to just quit after running beautifully all afternoon?

[ad356]

are you getting spark? take the center lead off the distributor stick a screwdriver in the spark lead. hold the metal part of the screwdriver near that center post. hold on to the plastic handle do not touch the metal while cranking. now crank the engine over you should see a spark jump over to the post on the distributor. if you see a spark you want to make sure its not a fuel delivery problem. if you dont see a spark then you need to figure out if you have a MAG ignition or a battery ignition. if its a MAG remove the kill wire if you have a spark now the problem is the "kill switch". on this system that switch grounds out the spark. the other system is the battery ignition, check to make sure you have 6 or 12 volts going to the coil, know what voltage your tractor runs on. since it quit suddenly im going to guess its a ignition problem

[clintmo]

Thanks, ad356. Checking for spark will be next on the list. The tractor is battery ignition.

[offrink]

Shake the wiring harness behind the dash and try to start. Sometimes it's simple stuff.

[Harold R]

You might check the points. I once had the fiber tang that rides the distributor lobe break.....leaving the points closed at all times. Died just like I turned the switch off.

[clintmo]

Thanks for the tips. Sadly, she's still out there, getting rained on. I made a new problem for myself: while attempting to take apart and check the carb for blockage, I broke off the idle tube. So now I'm dealing with that. I did put the carb from my other cub on and still nothing. So now i have some REAL fun ahead getting out that bit of idle tube still threaded in there. Anybody wanna weigh in on that?

[danovercash]

Small left handed drill bit in a hand held "brace". BTDT.

[clintmo]

That seems to be the prevailing method. I'm comforted knowing I'm not the only one who has done this to himself. Ha!

[Bob McCarty]

Clint, The calibrated end of the idle tube is in the threaded portion. You can still run the carb without the tube. I wouldn't worry about it at this point. You can get it fixed at the next Cubfest you attend. The threads are 4-48, and it's probably not worth buying a tap for what may be only one useage. I'm thinking that idle tube was probably removed if that carb was rebuilt and therefore not corroded in place. Although I hate EZouts, if you have a small enough one, you might gently try it and see if the end piece with unscrew easily

Bob

[staninlowerAL]

Yep, BTDT and as Bob said, a small easy out, GENTLY used might remove it. Just don't get to robust with the torque!! Also soak the threads with plenty of penetrating lube like PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. for a day or two. Stan

[Denny Clayton]

Small left handed drill bit in a hand held "brace". BTDT.

3/32"

[clintmo]

So Bob, you're telling me it will function properly like this?

image.jpg (72.96 KiB) Viewed 214 times

I like the sound of that!

[Don McCombs]

Clint,
Maybe not perfectly, but darn close. The ultimate plan should be to replace it, however. Maybe you should come down to DSCF and we could work on it.

[Bob McCarty]

Bob

[clintmo]

I would love to. I'd REALLY love to get out to Colorado! Neither are very likely, though. But I won't say never.

I was gonna test the carb on the running tractor this evening but that tractor has some farmer retro-fits that don't allow for a carburetor swap (don't ask.) So I'll take your word for it, put the carb back on the "parked" tractor and resume troubleshooting.