painting drives me nuts

[pickerandsinger]

......…..Its the 3rd one Ive painted @ 5.49 a can….........

On average how many cans does it take? Or do you buy a couple, use them up and then buy a couple more until the job is done, not really wanting to know how many you used at $5.49 a can By the way does that $5.49 include tax?

…Hey you know how the painting posts go... But here goes…I do exactly as you say and buy a few and spray away…In this case I rebuilt the engine and put in a new clutch, so I just painted piece by piece ( front, engine, and rear as they were split)…And the pieces as they came out of the electrolysis tank..Breaks up the project and saves cleaning the gun every time I paint….I use Majic from TSC as it is close by (20 miles) and uses 100% Soybean oils, from American Farmers….I would guess I have about 10-12 cans of IH Red and 3 Cans of Rustoleum Silver….+Tax….which is unfortunately probably the price of a rattle can of paint ….I really respect guys who are pro painters and I have seen some beautiful paint jobs on Cubs, but I am far from a pro and this works for me….Which I guess is what working on and restoring cubs is all about …I do have a paint gun but to use it in short sessions like I paint, probably not practicable..( Is that the right word)….I'll be painting and installing a fast hitch next…Oh Joy…. Didn't mean to hi-jack, just answering a question..

[Stanton]

There is plenty of info on the internet to help with HVLP painting. Saw one YouTube video that stuck in my mind. The guy said a hand fan at a hand span (or something like that). He took his spread out hand and with it next to the test paper indicated the width of the proposed test shot, then rotated his hand from the paper to the end of the nozzle; little finger touching the paper while thumb was touching the nozzle. In other words, your test spray should be a spread out hand span wide at the distance of a hand span away. Good tip.

I make sure to always thin IronGuard 2150 to 8:1 paint to reducer/thinner. Always use Case IH reducer/thinner. Adjust my test pattern on a piece of paper so it an even shot at proper distance. And always keep the sprayer moving. Make sure humidity is down (less than 50%). Rarely have problems.

If I remember right, the adjustment screw at the bottom of the handle deals with the amount of air flowing through the gun. The knob on the back controls the amount of opening at the pin when the trigger is pulled back and the knob on the side deals with the concentration of paint; the evenness of paint in the shot. Open the bottom thumb screw so there's plenty of air flow, then open the knob on the back 1-1/2 turns. Turn the side knob about 1/2-1/3 CCW from full stop and shoot a test shot. Primarily adjust the side knob (paint) and rear thumb screw (air). I set my air flow at 50-55 PSI and use an in-line water trap at the gun.

Don't give up and keep at it; you'll get it. Hope this helps.

[Matt Kirsch]

Wow if it takes "several" cans to do a Cub hood, you're doing something wrong... No offense. That'd be enough to put a 1/4" thick later of paint on.

I painted my 1967's hood with Rustoleum white from bare metal. Total paint usage was one can of primer and one can of color.

Dad painted his Cub top to bottom with 5 cans of Rustoleum IH red, and it looks darn good if you ask me.

[Jason (IL)]

I make sure to always thin IronGuard 2150 to 8:1 paint to reducer/thinner. Always use Case IH reducer/thinner. Adjust my test pattern on a piece of paper so it an even shot at proper distance. And always keep the sprayer moving. Make sure humidity is down (less than 50%). Rarely have problems.

I have sprayed enough IH paint. If it is not thinned right, it looks like ????? I have a small scale I use and weigh everything out to the nearest ounce. I sometimes add a little bit more thinner than an 8:1, 8 oz of paint to 1 oz of thinner but sometime 1.5 oz helps me better. I do use hardener in everything also. Weather is my biggest factor also. High humidity can cause havoc at times. Just my .02 worth.

Regardless of paint inside or out always have a mask with hardener.

I know it can be frustrating trying to get that perfect end result. Don't get too discouraged.

[Buzzard Wing]

One other way to paint is a quart of IH IronGard and a GOOD foam brush, or a quality bristle brush. Comes out surprisingly good, but not ideal for little nooks and crannies.

[ricky racer]

I am long way from being a painter. I'm more of a blacksmith, however I have had pretty good luck shooting Iron Guard with my cheap paint gun. You said you are using a HVLP paint gun. The LP stands for low pressure. Check the manual that came with the gun and see what pressure they recommend. A pressure of 50 psi seems way too high. I'd guess it should be about half of that or less. I could be wrong but you can Google recommended pressures to confirm. I always use a moisture trap about 15'-20' downstream of the compressor to remove moisture before it gets to the part I'm painting.

Secondly, I always use a hardener when shooting paint for a couple of reasons. Primarily I use it so I can recoat when I get a chance instead of when the paint has set long enough (going by the recoat time listed on can) to recoat. With the hardener I can recoat when ever I want and I don't have to worry about the paint lifting. Secondly it helps the paint set quicker which I think helps eliminate sagging and runs. Thirdly the paint will be dry to the touch quicker and it will be more chemical (gasoline & oil) resistant. Just wear the correct mask and paint in a well ventilated area.

Wet sanding between coats really helps too.

[Radec Aksarben]

You may want to install a water trap along with draining the water from the tank, especially if you don't have a climate controlled building.

[Jim Becker]

Regardless of paint inside or out always have a mask with hardener.

I knew that some comment like this would show up eventually in this thread. I also know full well that this post is likely a total waste of my time as most of you will completely ignore it. I hope at least one person pays attention and thus takes the proper precautions.

I am tempted to say that using a mask as protection from hardener is a good way to die, except it is actually a fairly bad way to die. Rather than adding any more of my alarmist ramblings, I will let two survivors put it in their own words.

First, the effects of many years of repeated low exposures.

Here is one post with a warning:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77584&#p621826

And three more posts that show why it is a good idea to pay attention to his warning:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=82341

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=82341&start=30#p662576

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=85384

If the story on low level exposure isn't enough to get your attention, here is an example of a single higher level exposure. Be sure to read all the posts in the thread that were made by JGtools:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39149

[StraightPipeC60]

Jim,

Your post is a real eye opener. No paint job is worth anyone's health & well being.

Thanks for passing this on.

[Papa's Cub]

I agree Low humidity is ideal for spraying paint, and the paint and reducer ratio needs to be correct, and the use of Hardener will add to the looks and longevity of the finish. However, I respectfully disagree with measuring the liquids by weight. I believe the correct unit of measure in this case would be of volume instead of weight.

[/quote]

I have sprayed enough IH paint. If it is not thinned right, it looks like ????? I have a small scale I use and weigh everything out to the nearest ounce. I sometimes add a little bit more thinner than an 8:1, 8 oz of paint to 1 oz of thinner but sometime 1.5 oz helps me better. I do use hardener in everything also. Weather is my biggest factor also. High humidity can cause havoc at times. Just my .02 worth.

Regardless of paint inside or out always have a mask with hardener.

I know it can be frustrating trying to get that perfect end result. Don't get too discouraged.[/quote]

[Super A]

Regardless of paint inside or out always have a mask with hardener.

I knew that some comment like this would show up eventually in this thread. I also know full well that this post is likely a total waste of my time as most of you will completely ignore it. I hope at least one person pays attention and thus takes the proper precautions.

I am tempted to say that using a mask as protection from hardener is a good way to die, except it is actually a fairly bad way to die. Rather than adding any more of my alarmist ramblings, I will let two survivors put it in their own words.

First, the effects of many years of repeated low exposures.

Here is one post with a warning:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77584&#p621826

And three more posts that show why it is a good idea to pay attention to his warning:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=82341

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=82341&start=30#p662576

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=85384

If the story on low level exposure isn't enough to get your attention, here is an example of a single higher level exposure. Be sure to read all the posts in the thread that were made by JGtools:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39149

Jim, thank you for posting this. One of my goals is to learn how to prep and paint a tractor to my satisfaction, but the reason I haven't started spraying paint all over everything is I want to wait until I have the proper safety gear first. My health and my time are the two most valuable things I own.

I have a good tractor friend that paints in the open air, and I have heard him say many times that he never touches a thing until he is suited up.

Al

[danovercash]

I took my 2150 and Majic hardener to the body shop and let them do it.

[Buzzard Wing]

One thing that has worked for me is to 'farm out' the big stuff while I work on the rest of the tractor. Hoods, wheel centers, lights and fenders are perfect examples, they are in way and a 'pro' can do a great job on the stuff that shows the most.

Only some of this tractor was painted, but it's a little harder to hide the parts of a red Cub that haven't been painted: