Woods 59 Mower Spindle

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BIGHOSS
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Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby BIGHOSS » Thu Dec 04, 2014 1:51 pm

Parts breakdown for spindle shows bearing cup M12610 and cone M12649. Looks OK to me. But, the seals have the number 5089. Seal 5089 is wayyy too big! So this must not be a seal number, but just a Woods p/n. Anyone know the right number for this seal?
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Barnyard
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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Barnyard » Thu Dec 04, 2014 2:07 pm

Ron, it should be a NAPA #NOS 10740.
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BIGHOSS
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Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub S/N 9216
w/ C-22 Mower

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w/59 Woods Mower

Ford 3000 Gas S/N C375091 w/Bushhog QT2345 Loader & 6' Squealer Bushhog

and a Palomino Mare named GIGI
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Lebanon

Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby BIGHOSS » Thu Dec 04, 2014 5:38 pm

looks like it. Thanks Bill.

Now if I could just get the spindle assy apart. Not having any luck yet. Punched out the roll pin pretty easy, but so far the shaft has not moved.
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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Bob McCarty » Thu Dec 04, 2014 5:52 pm

Ron, You may want to do a search for the rebuild. If I recall correctly, others have said the spindle was not designed to be rebuilt, but just replaced. For that reason it's not "user friendly" for disassembly. Someone will correct me if that info is wrong.

Bob
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we need to think differently."
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BIGHOSS
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Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub S/N 9216
w/ C-22 Mower

1974 Cub S/N 244814
w/59 Woods Mower

Ford 3000 Gas S/N C375091 w/Bushhog QT2345 Loader & 6' Squealer Bushhog

and a Palomino Mare named GIGI
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Lebanon

Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby BIGHOSS » Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:02 pm

Yep. I have also heard that. I have not priced it locally, which I will do tomorrow, but online a complete assy is $150. Ouch! Unless I am missing something. it looks straight forward. A seal at top and bottom with two bearings. The pin holds it all together. Steve Koons has rebuilt his, which is similar. Not ready to give up yet.
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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Dec 04, 2014 11:01 pm

Ron,

I have done it once, long enough ago that I can't remember the process other than I used a scratch awl to mark everything so that I could line it up during reassembly. I do remember that the pin (probably the one you drove out) was not centered on the shaft. A hydraulic press should be considered an absolute must for this job.

Good luck. keep us posted on your progress. Oh, I've got at least two more that need rebuilt. :) :)

Bill
Last edited by Bill Hudson on Thu Dec 04, 2014 11:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Seems I can't spell very well.
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BIGHOSS
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w/ C-22 Mower

1974 Cub S/N 244814
w/59 Woods Mower

Ford 3000 Gas S/N C375091 w/Bushhog QT2345 Loader & 6' Squealer Bushhog

and a Palomino Mare named GIGI
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Lebanon

Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby BIGHOSS » Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:50 am

This will definitely be a learning process for me. After talking to others and reading all I can find online, this is how the process goes as I see it:

1. Remove roll pin from sleeve and shaft
2. Press out shaft from sleeve (right now this is the challange)
3. Remove two bearings and seals and replace with new
4. Press shaft back into sleeve (This is the tricky part. Just like a trailer axle, the right amount of pressure has to be applied for the bearings to turn freely,
without excess play. Remember there is no castle nut to fine tune the pressure.
5. When satisfied with free play, drill new hole through sleeve and shaft and drive in roll pin.


I am certainly open for comments and suggestions. One of our Farmers Co-ops is a Woods Dealer. I plan to go there today. Stay tuned!
We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give......Winston Churchill

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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Smokeycub » Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:35 am

FWIW - I repaired one a few years ago and like Mr. Hudson said, a press is a must. Be sure to support the hub as near as possible to the middle, the hub flange will not handle the abuse. I managed to break the flange off in three pieces. :oops: After I repaired that I was able to align the original holes, reinstalled the drift pin and the preload was perfect, results may vary I'm sure.
BIGHOSS wrote:5. When satisfied with free play, drill new hole through sleeve and shaft and drive in roll pin.

I'd be concerned with weakening the shaft, I'd make the new drift hole 90 degrees from the original and at least a half inch away from the original. The bearings come in a set (something like A 13 - usually less expensive), I got the seals and bearings at a local auto parts store.
Ray
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Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail - flat belt pulley

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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Dale Finch » Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:32 am

Would you take photos of your work? LOTS of photos?! I have a 59 that has a welded center spindle that needs work and would love to have the advantage of your experience to follow. I hate "reinventing the wheel" on projects like these. This is what this forum is all about! Thanks!!

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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Bus Driver » Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:05 am

Sounds as if the technique will be found to do the job. This is one I have not done. Since that mower has 3 spindles, it is possible that additional ones may need repair in the future. Even if you ruin yours in the attempt, keep it on hand to be used to study if the need should arise again. Sometimes ruining one part teaches one how to do the job properly next time.
Luck favors those who are prepared

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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Ironlegs » Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:28 am

I have experience using a Woods L59 mower for about twenty-two years mowing eight acres of rolling fields. I had to replace the middle spindle once...with a new assembly that cost something like $100 at the time. It's very important to keep greasing the spindles over the course of a mowing season. I grease every time I change the blades or about five times per season. The dust, dirt and moisture these spindles are exposed to is extreme...keeping them greased is the only defense against internal surface breakdown.
Ironlegs John

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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:06 am

Bearings are pretty uniform in size. You will likely find, as Smokeycub did, that the existing pin holes are in the right place.

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BIGHOSS
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Posts: 1612
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:55 pm
Zip Code: 37087
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub S/N 9216
w/ C-22 Mower

1974 Cub S/N 244814
w/59 Woods Mower

Ford 3000 Gas S/N C375091 w/Bushhog QT2345 Loader & 6' Squealer Bushhog

and a Palomino Mare named GIGI
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Lebanon

Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby BIGHOSS » Fri Dec 05, 2014 12:51 pm

Back from Co-op, no help there. In fact they show that the spindle assy is N/A from Woods. Next we will try a 20 ton press. Stay tuned.

About drilling a new hole. The Woods parts breakdown says if replacing the sleeve and shaft, a new hole is to be drilled. Which makes sense as they probably come without holes. When I suggested drilling a new hole after replacing bearings etc., I thought there would be no way to re-align the old holes. Maybe I am just being pessimistic.
We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give......Winston Churchill

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Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle

Postby Buzzard Wing » Sun Dec 07, 2014 11:21 am

Just a note, those spindles come RIGHT and LEFT HAND thread. 59 (Cub) and L59. So if you get a new one make sure it's 'R'.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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BIGHOSS
10+ Years
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Posts: 1612
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:55 pm
Zip Code: 37087
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub S/N 9216
w/ C-22 Mower

1974 Cub S/N 244814
w/59 Woods Mower

Ford 3000 Gas S/N C375091 w/Bushhog QT2345 Loader & 6' Squealer Bushhog

and a Palomino Mare named GIGI
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Lebanon

Re: Woods 59 Mower Spindle "SUCCESS"

Postby BIGHOSS » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:07 am

After failing with a BIG hammer and a hydraulic press finally got the sleeve removed from shaft assy with a big press in tool and die shop. It released with a "BANG". The sleeve had corrosion inside that bonded itself to the shaft. That is probably the reason for not being able to rebuild. Because of moisture and rust, the shaft is attached firmly to the sleeve.
But anyway, picked up new bearings and seals today for $33.61. Will try to make pics as I progress.
We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give......Winston Churchill


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