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Look Ma! The carb no longer leaks !

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rick 48 cub
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Look Ma! The carb no longer leaks !

Postby rick 48 cub » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:05 pm

Thanks for wonderful advice found on this web page - it adds greatly to my quality of life by providing the answers to save me lots of time.

My carb was always dripping fuel - running or stopped. One of the posting describes where to use solvent-compatable pipe dope, and what type of light-weight needle valve to use (Kohler). (Please forgive me for not looking up the posting at the moment.)

PS I am on the hunt for that elusive 48" mower deck.

Take Care

Rick 48 Cub
Rick 1948 cub

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'Country' Elliott
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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:20 am

Hey Rick...NOTHIN' beats an IH carburetor on a Cub that's LEAK-FREE and runnin' SMOOOOTH! :wink: Glad you're in the CUB GROOVE! 8)
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue Jul 19, 2005 7:15 am

I am proud of the fact that following my carb rebuild and replacing the line with 5/16" brake tubing that I have no leaks.
Lurker Carl is my hero!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Postby beaconlight » Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:05 am

I had a lot of gunk in the glass bowl. I took out the drain and jet in the carb, When i blew air in to the drain bubbles came out around the carb gasket. The top wasn't loose and I am not going to over tighten and warp things worse than they are. Put every thing back together and it runns good.

Bill
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Postby George Willer » Sat Jul 23, 2005 11:58 am

beaconlight wrote:I had a lot of gunk in the glass bowl. I took out the drain and jet in the carb, When i blew air in to the drain bubbles came out around the carb gasket. The top wasn't loose and I am not going to over tighten and warp things worse than they are. Put every thing back together and it runns good.

Bill


Bill,

Be very careful with air pressure around the carburetor. That's how I think floats get smashed. I have figured out a way to repair the smashed ones, just in case...
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Lurker Carl
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Postby Lurker Carl » Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:15 pm

Beaconlight, the carburetor bowl gasket is designed to seal against slight negative pressure, not high positive pressure. The fuel bowl has a vent leading to the choke butterfly area so the pressure differential within the venturi can pull fuel out of the bowl and into the air stream. Adding postive air pressure from your compressor to the bowl will make things leak where it wouldn't leak under typical operating conditions. You might want to replace the gasket in case you've ruptured it.


George, I think you're onto something with the smashed floats. Most get crushed by careless shipping and storage. I never thought about high air pressure. Several good mechanics once gave me their opinions as to why floats come out of carburetors mashed. Neither of their explanations made sense to me.

One guy said they are crushed when water gets in the carb bowl, freezes, and that crushes the float. I think the fuel bowl would have a lot of water in to (it would have to be on a derelict engine) for the ice to expand enough to mash the float against the castings. With that much water in the bowl, the casting would suffer damage in the drilled passages.

Another guy told me the float gets exposed to extremely cold temperatures in the winter and they implode because of the air pressure reduction within the pontoon. But the temperature change would need to be really extreme for the small volume of air inside the pontoon to reduce pressure enough to distort the relatively substantial gauge of the brass used for pontoons. That kind of temperature change is not likely in most of the continental US. But that probably is the reason that the brass pontoons crack, continuous heating/cooling stress is the mostly likely reason I can think of for them to develop fractures.
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Re-building the carb

Postby countershaft » Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:28 pm

When you use a carb kit to overhaul the carb, should you also replace the float , whether it needs it or not ???
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Postby Lurker Carl » Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:42 pm

Don't replace the float unless it is a leaker. Leave well enough alone because many floats last decades, others only last a few years. Keep what works until it doesn't. If you keep the Cub in good tune, you'll know when your float stops floating - your Cub will start to run too rich or flood as though the choke is always on.
"Chance favors the prepared mind."
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Postby beaconlight » Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:05 pm

I didn't have the air cranked up that much and with both the drain and jet out didn't feel I would crush the float but the bubbles from the gasket shure supprised me. I replaced the gasket last fall. The leaks were in the area from the screw near the gas inlet to the outer one. That is quite a large are and I imagine is the area that leaks whe the top is warped. It ran fine after putting every thing back to normal. Cut grass from 4:00 till sundown. Just as it got too dark to see any more the mower belt broke. Those ones reinforced with kelvar last for ever but it finally gave up the ghost. With lights in the garage It was no big deal to change and 3 more hours mowing again this morning.

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????

Postby TractorChick » Mon Jul 25, 2005 11:36 pm

I'm not sure what I need to do with my carb. I'm thinking it has something to do with the float. Everytime I park it somewhere and leave it sit for a sec, it starts seeping. So i always have to just shut the gas off.
Can anyone help me out? please
thanx
amanda

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Tue Jul 26, 2005 5:07 am

Welcome Amanda I see by the 4 posts you have that you must be a reletively new member.
There is a link to fixing leaking carbs but I can't find it at the moment. My mind is a little foggy this morning.
The carburator bowl is a resivour for fuel. The float in it combined with the needle valve (just like the float and washers in a toilet) lets just so much gas in at a time. The height of a float can be adjisted. (I personally feel they are adjusted too often) But that are what previous owners are for. To screw things up. The most common cause of a leak in my experience is wear, dirt or corrosion of the needle valve or the seat ( The part the needle contacts to shut off fuel.) The replacement needle valve for an IH carb is solid metal and works quite well. Some have used a needle for a Kohler engines carb which has a rubber tip to stop a drip when nothing else works.
Other causes of dripping are loose seats. They are generally brass and screw in to the carb body. The red washer that goes between the body and the seat may be worn or defective as well. Another, but often over looked cause of leaking is the packing nut on the shut off. Of course if this ios the cause the gas won't leak at the carb it self. Some of the older shut off's leak if only turned partly on. By design the required fully off or fully on.
I know this doesn't fix your problem but I hope that when some else adds the likn to carb fixes it will help you understand what is happening.

Bill
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
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" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:32 am

Bill & Amanda - I believe this is the link you need:

Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes
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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Tue Jul 26, 2005 1:14 pm

Sure is BD. My head was in a fog this AM...I tried to be as helpful as My feeble mind would allow.

Bill
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"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
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