Catching up on my chores....slowly

[bob in CT]

I have had some extra time on my hands and that finally allowed me to pull a tractor into the garage in addition to the 1950 I have been working on as a slomoresto.
Hydraulics were not working, so that was the number one task. Oil was high in the crankcase and low in the TC block so it was not hard to figure out where to look.
The pump O-Rings were all a little brittle and there was a groove in the shaft. My cousin bored the cover for a lip seal like Ricky Racer pioneered and that is all buttoned up. I had a kit, so I decided to take the TC block apart too. Glad I did. The inside was dirty, probably from O-Ring wear and a couple of the plastic parts came out in pieces. I decided to replace them all and it was not cheap. Better that than not available at all, I guess. I was doing some assembly today and the springs looked funny. I had two small springs for the check valve assembly but they were different sizes. I wish I noticed that before as now I will be banged for another shipping charge that will be as expensive as a spring!

I still need to figure out the trick on getting that large O-Ring and piston to slip into the block and I'll be ready to button it up. I have tried all manner of twisting and pushing but once it his the lip of the block, I am stuck with a piston that turns and an O-ring that is stationary. I tried a piston ring compressor, but that is at the smaller limit of the tool and has not worked either.

It was nice to have it in the shop with the hood off to clean and lube all the service points.

I will paint the TC block before it goes back on and probably the hood. The factory Yellow paint is pretty tough, even though it fades, but the white is just terrible. I think I will just slap on my pony tank for now and start sanding to get ready for a warm day to paint the hood with an automotive paint that is durable and will not fade or chalk.

[Dale Finch]

Bob, I think the last one I did was at DSCF last year, and though I know you should rotate it while inserting it, that piston was so tight I finally had another person hit it with a mallet while I twisted it with two hands. Finally got it in. So far no leaks. Oh, and I started to say "tap", but it needed a wallop! Have fun!

[tst]

I use brake assembly lube, very slimy stuff made for assembly of rubber parts in cylinders, small bottle last for years, most any parts store should have it or can get it
Tim

[brewzalot]

I still need to figure out the trick on getting that large O-Ring and piston to slip into the block and I'll be ready to button it up

If you use 2 of the threaded bolt holes for the cover you can fab a strip of steel to put across the piston and draw it in very controlled. This works very well and there is no need to be pounding on anything.

Tim

[bob in CT]

Some great ideas. Boss Hog suggested a wrap with shim stock and a hose clamp. I was thinking of ordering a special clamp without the worm drive, but I have the stock and plenty of clamps. That and the draw-down method sounds like a good approach.

[BigBill]

We use oil or white grease when installing o rings to prevent small rips and tears.

I had some stuff called green slime for installing o ring seals on the Jack head for the hydraulic elevators. It's in between a grease and heavy oil in texture.

Note, remember to lube o rings and the shaft or bore it's sliding into or on to. Remember to lube all shafts and pre lube the oil seals.
When working on the finals, tranny and engines. I lube the old to rope seals too.
Once the shaft starts to turn on a dry seal there it goes south.
For me personally I order two of all my parts like seals and gaskets. This way I can repair anything with less down time.

I could pull a dirt bike engine at 8pm. Disassemble it, bore the cylinder change the crank bearings, gaskets and seals and fire it up by 12am that night for riding the next night. Pit stop?

I try to repair everything when it happens. Soon ill be healthy enough to get back at it.

[bob in CT]

I still need to figure out the trick on getting that large O-Ring and piston to slip into the block and I'll be ready to button it up

If you use 2 of the threaded bolt holes for the cover you can fab a strip of steel to put across the piston and draw it in very controlled. This works very well and there is no need to be pounding on anything.

Tim

This was virtually effortless. I used a length of what must have been angle stock for a garage door opener with oblong holes that alternated direction. I thought it was too thin but with just a couple of turns of the ratchet on each bolt it was in. I didn't even feel any resistance! Excellent tip and one of those: "why the heck didn't I think of that"

[artc]

I'll add that to the memory bank - good idea!

[bob in CT]

This has turned into a major service that was really needed. I started the Cub the other day and yesterday I had it out in the driveway to bask in the first almost 60 degree day of the year. Gave it a good power wash.

TC working fine and it is sort of painted. Good enough for now. The newly machined seal (thanks Ricky Racer) for the pump seems to be working too, but time will tell on that.

I noticed some arcing at the coil tower and the original coil was cracked so I bought a replacement. I asked for some copper core wires and was greeted with a blank stare. I ordered a set from TM. Then I decided to get a Pertronix ignition based upon Art C's strong endorsement. I work this puppy mowing and and it will be well work having a good ignition system. I stuck with D-15Y plugs as the color was excellent and the tractor always ran great.

I changed the coolant and noticed the upper hose needed a turn of both the clamps. Good thing the hood was off.

So far, I have rebuilt the hydraulics, changed ALL fluids, plugs, adjusted the valves, and wires and ignition are on the way. The hood is painted and I will recruit a neighbor who is good with decals to put those on.

I cleaned up all the linkages I could get to and all the pivots are lubed with Tri-Flo Teflon lube.

A friend of mine is welding the 5/8-11 captive nut on the dogleg for me and I will be good to go next week. Sure would like to paint the rest of the tractor, but work will come first this year. I have a couple more to service first and then I want to finish painting and assembling the 50.

Bob

[Rob in NH]

sounds like you have that one under control.