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Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

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hcfarmer
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Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby hcfarmer » Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:09 pm

Hello, I was hoping someone here could steer me in the right direction. I changed the clutch on my Cub this summer and found that the plates were actually in fine shape, but the throwout bearing was ripped and torn up. I replaced all of the parts with a clutch kit, put it back together and within a month, again, the throwout bearing tore apart. I never made an adjustment on the release levers or played with the tension at all as the kit said it was set as it should be. I found out that this is the 3rd clutch repair in 2 years on this tractor and I am assuming it has always been the bearing. Any idea what I should look at differently when I split the tractor again this month?

Thanks!

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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby ricky racer » Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:25 pm

Welcome aboard! Most likely the clutch fingers are out of adjustment. A simple search of this sight will instruct you on how to do it. Also, it's a good idea to soak your new TOB in oil prior to installation and grease it a couple times a year. Manuals are located at the top of the page too, you might want to start there.
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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:01 pm

Hcfarmer, Welcome to the Forum. If you'll go to the "how to" forum and down about 10 posts, you'll find two "how to's" on adjusting the clutch fingers. There also seems to be a problem with aftermarket TOB's breaking down quickly. If the casting around the graphite does not have the IH logo and part # on it, it's after market. They are cheaper, but not durable.

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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby Peter Person » Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:23 pm

From TM Tractor website on the TOB they are now selling;

Stock# CL378
Price: $ 37.07 each
Quantity: 1
Item description: replacement clutch release bearing and retainer, new, Tisco brand, made in China replacement style graphite (no roller bearings), grease fitting shown is for lubrication of the graphite bearing, replaces 350921R11. Case IH discontinued the USA made bearing. So we decided to carry the Tisco brand which we have had good luck with. These bearings come dry and we pre-grease them prior to shipping.

At CubFest Northeast 2011(http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65120) we cut a TOB in half that came out of a tractor due to failure.
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Several problems with the bearing;
1) Bone dry.
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2) Wrong grease (high temp used here) and not enough.
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3) Wax paper liner that would prevent any oils migrating to the face of the graphite puck.
Image

I do not recall what brand this one was.

Best thing to do is buy the TOB, grease it with the least expensive low temp grease until it comes out the overflow hole, put it in a ziplock bag or plastic container filled with oil and let it soak for a few days.

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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby Bill Hudson » Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:39 pm

Peter Person wrote:... Best thing to do is buy the TOB, grease it with the least expensive low temp grease until it comes out the overflow hole, put it in a ziplock bag or plastic container filled with oil and let it soak for a few days.

Peter


Just as Peter described, I keep, at least one on the shelf all the time. So, most often mine have been soaking for weeks, if not a few months.

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bob in CT
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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby bob in CT » Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:59 am

Another factor may be the graphite itself. It is a mineral, and like coal, every seam has its own unique properties.
Looks like i bought one of the last IH TOBs from Messicks. They said they were going to stock an aftermarket brand and I am pretty sure they said it was made in the USA. They told me at the time, just a couple of months ago, they they could still get the IH bearing on special order. It would be nice to have a pressure packer like they have for tapered roller bearings. We used to lube chains with a waxy lube that we had to heat up with a hot plate. You soaked the chain to get it into the rollers and hung it up to drip back into the pan. I wonder how that would work out to pre-treat a bearing?

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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby Bus Driver » Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:30 am

In addition to the selection of a "good" TOB and proper lubrication is the matter of proper use of the clutch. The properly-adjusted TOB has no function EXCEPT when the clutch pedal is depressed. Depressing the pedal slightly is called "riding the clutch" and results in the TOB contacting the pressure plate fingers and thus wearing but not resulting in releasing the clutch.
For maximum TOB life, the clutch pedal is not touched except when the clutch is to be disengaged. Sitting in a parade line with the pedal depressed is not good for the TOB, especially if the engine is revved up a bit. Shifting to neutral and taking the foot off the pedal is the better way for extended life of the TOB.
Some drivers have the habit of keeping the clutch pedal depressed slightly. One of the original reasons was that the Model T Ford which they drove before the popular use of conventional transmissions required that a pedal be depressed and held for first gear to engage. Road conditions then often required that first be used for extended periods of time. I knew some of those people.
In today's world, the Cub may be the only thing some have which has a clutch pedal. Some have hydrostatic lawn tractors which require depressing a pedal in order to move, so the habit is to push on the pedal.
Bottom line: Stay off the clutch pedal on the Cub except when necessary, keep the pedal depressed for the shortest possible time. But safety requires that the left foot is near the clutch pedal, ready at all times to immediately disengage the clutch to stop the tractor.
Last edited by Bus Driver on Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby challenger » Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:33 am

Hand in glove to Bus Driver's great points is making sure you have clutch pedal free play. This adjustment brings the TOB slightly back and away from the clutch fingers when the clutch is in the fully released position. There is a spec. for this in the manuals, but you can observe whether you have free play between the clutch fingers and TOB face by looking through the inspection hole. You can also regularly monitor the free play by being conscious of the need for some slack in the clutch pedal travel before you meet resistance as the pedal is pushed forward. If you do not have a small amount of free pedal travel, your clutch needs adjusting.

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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:35 am

bob in CT wrote:... We used to lube chains with a waxy lube that we had to heat up with a hot plate. You soaked the chain to get it into the rollers and hung it up to drip back into the pan. I wonder how that would work out to pre-treat a bearing?


I did put two new TOBs in a toaster oven set at 250 degrees. It was hot enough to soften/expand the grease I had filled them with. Left them in the oven for about a half an hour, till I could no longer stand the smell in the Cubhouse. One was installed and the other is on the shelf waiting until needed. It is too early to tell if the treatment was really successful.

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bythepond88
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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby bythepond88 » Thu Jan 29, 2015 12:51 pm

challenger wrote:There is a spec. for this in the manuals


Last time I adjusted the clutch, I did some experimenting and found out that the gap between the TOB and the fingers is the same as the thickness of a wooden paint stirrer.
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Re: Cub clutch/throwout bearing repair

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:18 pm

bob in CT wrote:.......We used to lube chains with a waxy lube that we had to heat up with a hot plate. You soaked the chain to get it into the rollers and hung it up to drip back into the pan. I wonder how that would work out to pre-treat a bearing?
I think it would do a good job of pretreating a bearing, but would worry that as it cooled the wax would form a coating on the back of the bearing that kept the oil in the grease from soaking in. They are lubed by the oil separating from the wax base and then soaking into the graphite from the rear.
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