Front main seal split

[CraigKennedy]

Hey yall, I was wondering If yall can give me any tips about splitting my Lo-boy to replace my Front Main seal. The Seal isn't really leaking, but more of a small seep, not even enough to drip oil and its been in the same place for about a year. But its the only place that I have not had the tractor split and its taunting me, LOL. I know the radiator has to be drained, top and hoses removed, whole front and has to be unbolted and moved, engine supported, and engine set on TDC, and the Front pulley has to be pulled with a bearing seperator and two jaw puller. While I am that far in, I would like to replace the governor oil seal too, along with the governor rockshaft oil seal, and front cover gasket. How hard is it to remove the governor? I read on here to set TDC and mark the teeth on crank, governor, ect and put it back the way it was.
Any tips or tricks yall can give me is a appreciated!
Thanks Craig

[randallc]

If it were me, I would settle for being "taunted" for a while. Do some research on pulling and installing the front pulley. Some good information on here. The same with installing the governor. Mark the timing marks so you can see them easier when putting it back together. I don't believe you have to pull the front cover to replace the crankshaft seal at the front pulley, nor to replace the governor seals.

[Eugene]

I have tractors that some of the seals and gaskets "seep".

Cheaper and easier to occasionally top off the crankcase oil than to spit the tractor. Will wait until the tractor needs a major engine overhaul to replace the seeping seals and gaskets.

[BIGHOSS]

Since I am a member of the "Been there done that club", I agree with the advice of the others. There is absolutely no guarantee that the new seal will stop the leak. In fact after all of your time and effort, it just may leak more. I would leave it alone, JMHO.

[Bus Driver]

When the point is reached that the leak is intolerable and replacing the seal is being considered, try the oil stop-leak to see if it helps. I had a rear main seal at that point 15 years ago, used the stop-leak and all is still doing quite well. It is possible that stop-leak will make leaks worse but in the frequent instances where it helps, it is quick and low cost.

[Mike in Louisiana]

This may work better then the bearing splitter

[bythepond88]

I agree with the others - try the stop leak, and if that doesn't work, put up with being taunted. The front crank pulley is the most difficult part to remove on a Cub, especially if you don't have a real torch (as in not a propane torch) to heat it up. It can be done (I did it), but it is a PITA.

[clodhopper]

I tend to do things such as this as well. While It may be good to wait until major work needs to be done, I chose to remove the front and replace the front seal. I also used a speedi-sleeve on the shaft as it was worn a bit. It was not that daunting (save the pulley removal) and it leaks no more. Of course mine was much more than seeping, it was more like pouring....

[Steverakinghay]

I recently bought a basket case super A? that someone has taken apart to restore. I've been trying to identify this tractor because the serial #'s are all different. (has two of almost everything) I need to replace the broken pulley, and this site is helping tremendously. I read advice to leave the front cover loose when installing the pulley so the seal will center on the pulley, which makes very good sense. Speedy-sleeve sounds like good advice as well. My new tractor has a water pump, so I'm thinking it may be an A1 engine? with no hydraulics.