How loose the hand crank?

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Dieselrider
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How loose the hand crank?

Postby Dieselrider » Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:05 am

I am adjusting the valves today and thought it would be easier using the hand crank to turn over the engine than trying to turn it over by the fan belt or the crank pulley. The crank handle does not want to go through the casting on the front of the tractor. It starts in but doesn't want to go through. The crank is about 1/2- 5/8 inch diameter. Could this be the wrong crank or just too much rust inside the casting hole.

The rust doesn't look too bad and I used a wire wheel to clean off the crank. Do they usually fit tight? thanks.

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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby snoman7c » Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:27 am

I just made a hand crank for my Cub last winter, since I didn't have one. I used 5/8 " rod. There are plans for the hand crank on the forum somewhere. It fit right in my Cub. You may have a combination of rust and dirt plugging the hole! Hope this helps you out :D

torchred89
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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby torchred89 » Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:28 am

That's what mine is. The pegs are 1 1/4 in long

Dieselrider
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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Dieselrider » Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:37 am

I am going to check it out closer after lunch. There may be a bur or something (a ding) on the crank that is interfering with the fit.

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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby staninlowerAL » Wed Mar 11, 2015 1:18 pm

The crank is usually a "loose" fit. Not sure about the front sheet metal on yours but does it extend down below where the crank slips in? If so does it align with the hole in the bottom radiator casting? Sometimes the sheetmetal gets warped and the hand crank will not go in to reach the crankshaft. Not a problem on the older style FCub since the grill does not extend below the radiator like on the yellow/white series.

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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Dieselrider » Wed Mar 11, 2015 2:44 pm

staninlowerAL wrote:The crank is usually a "loose" fit. Not sure about the front sheet metal on yours but does it extend down below where the crank slips in? If so does it align with the hole in the bottom radiator casting? Sometimes the sheetmetal gets warped and the hand crank will not go in to reach the crankshaft. Not a problem on the older style FCub since the grill does not extend below the radiator like on the yellow/white series.

Mine is a 49 so, older style.

I checked after lunch and the crank measured about .670 to .680 inch in diameter. Almost 11/16 which is .6875". That is about 1/16 inch over .625" which is what 5/8 inch would be. So I filed it and ground on it awhile and also used a round file in the hole to clean out any rust. That did the trick and I was able to turn the engine with it. It is a bit tight in a couple positions but, it is usable.

Anyway valves adjusted. Thank you all.

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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby tmays » Wed Mar 11, 2015 3:07 pm

For safety reasons, I'd advise not using crank with a tight fit.
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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Barnyard » Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:05 pm

Are you sure it is that 1/16th of an inch causing the problem. I have found at times that the pin, even though it is 1 1/4" long might need a little trimming to go all the way in.
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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:49 pm

Perhaps your bolster frooze at some time and only bulged a bit without cracking causing the "tube" that the crank goes into to be deformed??

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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Yogie » Wed Mar 11, 2015 6:11 pm

Sounds like the crank might be for a Farmall A tractor of another type of Farmall. Bolster is cast so there really shouldn't be much rust to speak of in the hole. Could also be some excess slag in the hole from the casting mold....
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Dieselrider
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Tractors Owned: 1977 Cub 184 Lowboy
1979 John Deere 2640
2013 Kubota L3800 TLB
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Location: West Central PA

Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Dieselrider » Wed Mar 11, 2015 7:45 pm

Yogie wrote:Sounds like the crank might be for a Farmall A tractor of another type of Farmall. Bolster is cast so there really shouldn't be much rust to speak of in the hole. Could also be some excess slag in the hole from the casting mold....

I was thinking that the crank might be off some other machine as well because the size is definitely larger than what others are describing. And yes, a 1/16 inch would make a big difference in fit. A few thousandths of an inch can be the difference between a slip fit and a press fit.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Mar 11, 2015 10:04 pm

Dale Finch wrote:Perhaps your bolster frooze at some time and only bulged a bit without cracking causing the "tube" that the crank goes into to be deformed??
I have seen that, and have a homemade one I picked up several years ago which is a little undersize I use on ones that the casting is ice bulged.
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Re: How loose the hand crank?

Postby Dusty B » Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:06 pm

My "B" crank won't fit my Cubs!
Grandpa's '41 B
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'55 Case SC
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Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
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