Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

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Radec Aksarben
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Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Radec Aksarben » Wed Mar 25, 2015 10:43 am

I'm gathering parts to set up my 144 cultivator on my armstrong lift F-cub.

It looks like the rear mounting brackets that attach to the final drives should have some kind of wedge head bolts.
P1020107.JPG


Anybody know where I could find such a thing? How long? I can't find anything in the Fastenal book.

Thanks!

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Mar 25, 2015 10:46 am

Do those take a different diameter than the 5/8" implement bolts with a tapered shoulder?

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Radec Aksarben
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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Radec Aksarben » Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:02 am

yes! Tapered Shoulder! I couldn't remember what they were called. They are 5/8".

Where in the world do I find them?

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:05 am

Earl (forum name) makes them. You might also post in the "Vine" and see if someone has extras for sale. You'll want to determine what length you need. They may be the same as for mounting the drawbar brackets, but I'm not sure.

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Radec Aksarben
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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Radec Aksarben » Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:11 am

Ok. Thank you.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Radec Aksarben » Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:57 am

Has anyone ever tried to use a 5/8'-11 lug nut with a 90 degree seat with a locking nut behind it to replace the tapered shoulder bolt? It may not even need the locking nut. I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:09 pm

That should work. There are also several posts in the "how to" forum under implements on tapering nuts to use in place of the the OEM version.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby staninlowerAL » Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:16 pm

Radec Aksarben wrote:Has anyone ever tried to use a 5/8'-11 lug nut with a 90 degree seat with a locking nut behind it to replace the tapered shoulder bolt? It may not even need the locking nut. I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

I have used a 5/8 stud for mounting heavy duty truck rims and the tapered split bushing with a nut to hold everything in place. The part of the stud that screws into the final is course thread and the other side is NF.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby bob in CT » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:00 pm

Plenty of implement bolts on eBay. Burch store lists new ones for about $6.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Glen » Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:32 am

Hi,
Here is a picture from TM Tractor, at the bottom of most pages on here, showing the bolts. This one is 1 inch long. They are bolts IH used to hold several implements on the Cub. Case IH still had the 1 inch ones last year when I asked. They did have longer lengths too, not sure if they still do. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gdr/drbolts_001.htm

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby bob in CT » Fri Mar 27, 2015 4:42 am

It is critical to use the exact length required. Too long, it bottoms out in final drive blind holes. Too short and the threads get damaged over time. The manual for your implement will have the correct listing unless somebody can chime in that has experience. I can only read *** *84 R1 on the part number.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby challenger » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:50 am

Your drawbar brackets require the same tapered stud so if you have a drawbar on your tractor you should have the bolts. As Bob says it is important that the studs are not too long. It is obvious the bracket has to be tight against the casting, but if the bolt is too long you could inadvertently over tighten them against the bottom of the casting hole and push out the bottom of the hole. I believe barnyard came up with the following DIY, which I think is very ingenious: Buy two inch long grade 5, 5/8 inch fully threaded shank bolts with nuts. Fashion an arbor with a smaller bolt to hold the 5/8 inch nut so you can chuck it in your drill and spin the nut. Then, with an original tapered bolt as a visual guide, grind a similar bevel on the spinning nut. The finished nut is then screwed on the bolt with the taper toward the bracket. The advantage of this approach is that you can turn the bolt to the bottom of hole, hold the head of the bolt with one wrench while you tighten the tapered nut against the bracket. Since the casting holes have different depths, this fastener will work on all of them and make use of the maximum thread depth in the casting, which helps prevent the bolt from stripping out or wallowing out the casting hole. It also reduces rotational wear on the casting threads because you use the threads of the nut to apply the fastening pressure on the bracket rather than the casting threads.

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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Barnyard » Fri Mar 27, 2015 8:18 am

challenger wrote:I believe barnyard came up with the following DIY,

It wasn't me, so I can't take credit for it.
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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby Denny Clayton » Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:04 am

Barnyard wrote:
challenger wrote:I believe barnyard came up with the following DIY,

It wasn't me, so I can't take credit for it.

Here's one method from BIGHOSS:

viewtopic.php?f=149&t=56390
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Re: Bolts for cultivator rear mount bracket to final drive

Postby challenger » Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:35 am

Denny,

The BIGHOSS arbor and hand held grinder set up is a great idea since the nut is more easily centered on a 5/8" bolt. The one limitation, however, is it requires a large capacity chuck to receive the 5/8" bolt shank. If you have a drill press, this looks like the way to go.


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