Touch Control Trouble

[Brandon Webb]

Dad replaced the clutch in his 76 cub this winter and we got it together and now the hydraulics won't work. I'm pretty sure the piston in the ram is shot out as it appears the shaft and cylinder and all has came out. I'm not sure how this happened but it did. It is all the way forward and will not go back in. We have removed all the Allen plugs we can find thinking it has air or something in it but even with a pipe wrench we cannot get it to move. Hopefully you guys know how to correct what we've screwed up?

[Glen]

Hi,
Have you checked the fluid in the system, the position the arm is in, in your pics, the cylinder would not be out of the block any further than it normally goes. You usually cannot move the arms manually with the engine off, that I've ever seen.
Was it working and just quit, if it did then the fluid may have run out the pump seal into the crankcase. Check the dipstick and see if the oil level is high.
Did you fill the system like the owner's manual says, here is a page showing how. Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4. Nowadays Case IH sells Hy-Tran fluid for it. Click on the pic makes it bigger. Nice Cub.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... age-67.jpg

[Dale Finch]

Another possibility might be the fluid is still there, "holding" everything in place, but the nut on the pump has come off so the fluid is not being circulated.

I agree that the piston does NOT look like it is too far out.

[Brandon Webb]

We have checked and changed the fluid. It was parked last year with the sickle mower on it and lowered. It's in the up position now with the piston and sleeve pushed all the way out. Dad probably filled it incorrectly I wasn't around. I think maybe it had air in it and them when it extended it went to far. I was hoping there was a pressure release or something that would relieve it. We've had a pipe on the rear rock shaft with it running and cannot budge it. The control and valve are moving. We have tried a pipe wrench as well as a long pipe and hammer on the tc rock shaft. I had 3 spares in the barn both you can move with your hands, 1 you couldn't it is froze just like this one.

[Brandon Webb]

The sleeve that the piston goes in has came out. Piston itself isn't out the sleeve has came out of the TC block

[Brandon Webb]

Part number 10 has came out and moved forward towards the front of the engine

[Tezell]

If the touch control is good. It will not move. My experience has been if it moves it needs rebuilding.

[Glen]

Hi,
Sorry, couldn't see it in your pics. I've never had one that did that, so I don't know, maybe one of the other guys does. Number 10 in the parts pic is called the piston. Number 7 is the connecting rod, is it attached ok. Also, yours should be the 360719R1 block, being a 1976 Cub. The parts pic you have is for an older one.

[Dale Finch]

Unless you pushed the "sleeve" back in (picture #1), that is about where it SHOULD be. The boot (leather or rubber) normally covers the assembly.

Here is picture of the one I rebuilt, before disassembly:

[Dale Finch]

Here is another photo:

You can see that #10 & #7 are physically attached...they move together. As mentioned, if the are working CORRECTLY, it should be difficult, if not impossible, to move it without circulation, i.e. engine running and pump pumping.

[Dale Finch]

I cannot find clearer pictures of the Cub TC right now, but this series from the Super A rebuild MAY help. (The only real difference between the Cub and SA is that the SA has two of everything!):

Here you see the piston being removed from the head side...the ONLY side it will come out:

And on the other side, the rod end being pulled into the block as the piston assembly is removed:

And finally, after reassembly, you can see the "sleeve"/piston is sticking out again:

I guess I just do not understand what you had happen to the piston. Can you take pictures of it?

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Make sure it is full of fluid, and if it is, remove the top Allen screw plug in the block where the lines bolt to the touch control itself. Loosen the filler plug so the system can get air, and start the engine and let it run slowly. You should expect to see a couple of spurts of fluid, then a steady stream. Once you see the steady stream, turn off and reinstall Allen plug. With the filler plug still loose, start engine and move control lever forward and backward several times cycling the arms to clear air from system. Refill and tighten plug. The bottom plug in that block is in the intake line, and if it is out the pump will suck air rather than fluid. If you do not get any oil out the Allen plug it may be time to check the gear on the pump as was mentioned earlier. When filling, put fluid in till it runs back out the filler. If you are trying to keep nice and clean and not overflow, you will not get it full. There is a shelf inside the hole that makes it appear full when it is not.