New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

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VMBanner
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:07 am
Zip Code: 70737
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub (12v conversion); 1950 Farmall Cub (12 V conversion); 1968 John Deere 140H1 (stock); 1972 Cub Low Boy

Re: New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

Postby VMBanner » Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:42 pm

Hi Folks. The work on my 48 Cub has been a labor of love but certainly more than I thought i was getting myself into. That reality came rushing in
as i was cleaning the pistons in my garage and had to explain where the pistons came from to a friend of mine who just happened to drop in. Well, so far, I've changed
wires, rotor, distributor, plugs, filters, fluids, etc. The compression test explained a lot....so, valves are lapped in and new rings are on the piston and cylinders are
honed.
I also had the starter rebuild after i found that the fields had somehow dislodged themselves from the post. I still don't understand how i was getting any starter based on the condition i found it in.
My current status is getting ready to chase the threads and get the head back on. I'm also considering putting a bung in the coolant return line and installing a simple temperature gauge.
I'm also doing a little painting on the parts that i removed.

Unfortunately, the refinery that I work is in the middle of a shut down so getting time to work on the tractor lately has been challenging.

I've never heard the tractor run...I don't know the condition of the clutch...I don't know if the hydraulics work.

Wish me luck.

Thanks for all the great posts!! I learn so much just by searching the topics and reading through the posts and replies.

VMBanner
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:07 am
Zip Code: 70737
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub (12v conversion); 1950 Farmall Cub (12 V conversion); 1968 John Deere 140H1 (stock); 1972 Cub Low Boy

Re: New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

Postby VMBanner » Tue Dec 08, 2015 8:55 am

I have been working on my Cub project since before the summer. What i thought was going to be a "get a new battery and rebuild the carburetor" ended up with an inframe rebuild. However, i found no joy when i spun the motor over. I put new rings in, new distributor, coil, wires, plugs, fluids...you name it, but no combustion.

I woke up Saturday morning and said, "today is the day." What i learned that day was that the timing mark on the engine pulley is 90 degrees out of phase with the pistons. I've been setting the timing to the wrong point. i finally kept bumping the engine 'til i felt pressure and could could see the piston at TDC...i remarked the pulley and gave it turn. I was greeted with a puff of white smoke....where there's smoke...there's fire. The engine came to life with the next crank and ran beautifully. Oh happy day! It only ran for a short time as it doesn't have a charging system just yet. I'm in the middle of welding up an alternator bracket for it. Yes, i punted on the 6V system. I couldn't figure out why the starter was dragging so badly.

I took a look at a couple of the postings with pictures of DIY brackets. I compared to the generator bracket and started the process. I just need to add the ears where the alternator attaches and clean up the welds. I guess a coat of paint would be in order, as well.

I also noticed that the belly mower raised up off the ground. I didn't know if the hydraulics were functional...now I know. They work!

I have a version of a 10Si alternator and I sometimes see a diode added to the line that goes to the ignition switch. Is that necessary? It's not a big deal to install but I don't know if i need it. A few pennies at radio shack can get me a diode....i just don't see it's purpose.

To all, I sincerely appreciate all the posts and advice that have been documented on this site. I took on this tractor with no knowledge about Cubs, other than remembering the one from my childhood, and was able to take a piece of equipment that was going to die in someone's backyard and get it functional again. I've also spent some great quality time with my son getting this Cub back on its feet. I told my son this will be his tractor, but we have to take care of it.

VMBanner
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:07 am
Zip Code: 70737
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub (12v conversion); 1950 Farmall Cub (12 V conversion); 1968 John Deere 140H1 (stock); 1972 Cub Low Boy

Re: New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

Postby VMBanner » Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:11 am

This is my work in progress alternator bracket. I'm using a Harbor freight flux core welder with lincoln wire. The flat bar is carbon steel from Lowes 1/4". I would've preferred 3/8" but none was available. I think the 1/4" will work. It's pretty stiff.
I still have to drill the holes on the base and cut and drill the ears that support the alternator, but it's coming along. I'll post a picture of the finished product when i'm done.
Attachments
20151208_075757_resized_1.jpg

staninlowerAL
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 2773
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
Zip Code: 36558
Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1)'52, (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (1)'72 154 Number Series Loboy, '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '53 MM BG (offset), (2) '49 Avery V's, '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76 Yanmar 1500, Sears Surburban's, MTD's, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: AL (Southwest)

Re: New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

Postby staninlowerAL » Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:09 am

VMBanner wrote:I have a version of a 10Si alternator and I sometimes see a diode added to the line that goes to the ignition switch. Is that necessary? It's not a big deal to install but I don't know if i need it. A few pennies at radio shack can get me a diode....i just don't see it's purpose.

Depending on how you wired the alternator if you don't have a break in the exciter wire when the engine is not running it will drain the battery. Several ways to do that including a diode. Stan

bythepond88
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1421
Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:54 pm
Zip Code: 60073
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: IL, Round Lake Heights

Re: New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

Postby bythepond88 » Tue Dec 08, 2015 5:36 pm

Welcome to the club! And congratulations on the time spent with your son. Good bonding time, and you are introducing the next generation to our wonderful little tractors!
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.

Smokeycub
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 943
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:47 am
Zip Code: 44266
Tractors Owned: 48 F Cub #11678
65 Cub Cadet 104
70 450C JD loader
67 Cub Cadet 107
90 B7100HST-D Kubota
72 Cub Cadet 149
54 Super C
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Ravenna, Ohio

Re: New to the Club (1948 and 1950 Cubs)

Postby Smokeycub » Wed Dec 16, 2015 9:24 am

Really glad to see the positive progress you've made on your Cub. Kudos!
VMBanner wrote:and was able to take a piece of equipment that was going to die in someone's backyard and get it functional again. I've also spent some great quality time with my son getting this Cub back on its feet. I told my son this will be his tractor, but we have to take care of it.

I believe spending quality time with your son is far more gratifying than getting the Cub up and running, but getting the Cub going is a huge plus that reinforces that father/son relationship. :coffee:
Ray
Smokeycub
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail - flat belt pulley

The squeaky wheel may get the grease but it's usually the first to be replaced!


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