Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

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PVF1799
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Tractors Owned: 1929 Farmall Regular (Original Owner)
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Attachments: Woods 42F Fast Hitch, L38 Disc Fast Hitch, F11 Plow Fast Hitch, Land Plow, Snow Plow, Grader Blade, Planter w/Fertilizer, Cultivators, Hilling Disks, Sickle Bar Mower(2), IH 7' Sickle Bar Mower, Flail Mower and 5' International Belly Mower.
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Location: Altamont, NY

Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby PVF1799 » Wed May 06, 2015 7:45 pm

So I'd like to try welding the cast iron part from the landside of my 193 plow. I have the replacement part thanks to PharmaPhil.

I have nothing to lose. So here's the question. If I put it in the shop toaster oven at 300 F, can I weld it with my wire welder or do I need my stick welder with a small rod. I am assuming brazing cast is out of the question?

A search yielded lots of results but nothing jumped out at me.

Ken
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Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex

tst
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby tst » Wed May 06, 2015 7:52 pm

a good mig turned up to the higher heat settings with the argon/co2 mix can weld cast

Larry in WNY
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby Larry in WNY » Wed May 06, 2015 7:57 pm

An acetelene torch is best but do you have a gas grill? Heat on high, that will get it to 400-500 degrees. Before heating V out the area. If cracked drill a hole at each end of the crack. Once hot you need to use a stick welder and Nickel rod. Weld an inch or two, tap lightly with a ball peen hammer and place back in the oven to warm again. Clean off the flux and repeat several times until done. When complete, place it under sand or in a welding blanket to cool slowly. This will reduce the chance of the weld cracking.
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby RogerW » Wed May 06, 2015 8:05 pm

Actually, brazing cast is a very good way to repair it. Many years ago dad had a cast piece on the cultivator for his C break, and the weld shop brazed it. Said it was stronger than the cast. I think it should be reheated and then cooled slowly after repair.

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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby Lee_Petrie » Wed May 06, 2015 9:06 pm

Hi Ken'
Preheat as you think best, peen always on cool down, but I personally prefer Stainless rods on my DC stick welder ( DC with reverse polarity ) , melts down , rather then mounding like cast iron rods , just do an inch or so at a time, at each end of the area to be repaired ! Attached is my weld with Stainless , that is the original weld with no grinding , to make it look pretty , no fillers , just a little black paint , maybe 15 years ago ! By the way , the 4 pole (120 v) generator has a cast frame , the broken fabricated foot ( that I welded ) is Steel !!
That's my choice , Lee Petrie, Joliet, IL

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leerenovations
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby leerenovations » Wed May 06, 2015 10:18 pm

I miged a cast iron header in my mustang with just flux core wire. The entire header flange broke off. I laid down a large bead all the way around it and it held great for another 2 years until I wrecked the car. I just made sure to clean it real well and it worked. Ive welded a lot of cast iron with just flux core wire with no problems. Im not a scientist so I am not even gonna try to explain the tensile strength but so far it has worked. Ive even used it on a broken cast plow beam and it hasn't come loose even with my 8N.
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby Smokeycub » Thu May 07, 2015 11:18 am

I never tried to mig weld cast iron but I did weld up a broken plow beam. Two deep V's on top and bottom, preheated with an acetylene torch, stick welded with non-machine-able cast rod. Let it cool on it's own. It's held up now for four or five years so far.
Ray
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Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail - flat belt pulley
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CharlieK
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby CharlieK » Thu May 07, 2015 7:27 pm

like Larry said---use a Nickle rod
get er done; life is good

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Bus Driver
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby Bus Driver » Thu May 07, 2015 8:31 pm

I have yet to try the MIG on cast iron. If the part is not so large as to wick away the heat from the oxy-acetylene torch, welding with the torch is my preferred method. Peterson #2 high heat flux and old piston rings as filler if available. I have welded steel to cast iron with this method when parts of the casting were missing.
If necessary, weld with the torch with the part on the grille for supplemental heat.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/11 ... 1290087405
I did not do this welding but this is typical of the results.
Luck favors those who are prepared

gusbratz
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby gusbratz » Thu May 07, 2015 8:56 pm


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Jeff Silvey
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Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby Jeff Silvey » Fri May 08, 2015 7:31 am

I have welled CI. I have repaired a lot of hit & miss engines years ago. Like everyone has said make sure you V out the area that you want to weld, use a nickel rod. I always ping the weld into the V to get the welding rod down into the V. Just let it cool slow. Good Luck.
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PVF1799
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Tractors Owned: 1929 Farmall Regular (Original Owner)
1942 Farmall M #55654
1948 Farmall Cub #21005
1955 Farmall Cub #190769
1961 Cub Cadet #16509
1975 Cub Cadet 1250H
197x IH 990 Haybine
1994 JD 5320 Diesel
Attachments: Woods 42F Fast Hitch, L38 Disc Fast Hitch, F11 Plow Fast Hitch, Land Plow, Snow Plow, Grader Blade, Planter w/Fertilizer, Cultivators, Hilling Disks, Sickle Bar Mower(2), IH 7' Sickle Bar Mower, Flail Mower and 5' International Belly Mower.
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Altamont, NY

Re: Welding Cast Iron Experiment.

Postby PVF1799 » Sat May 09, 2015 9:04 pm

So after reading all the great posts - I looked the the equipment I own and decided to braze the plow heel. Here are the steps I took.

1. Ground the edges of the chipped out pieces and the heel
2. I brought the shop oven outside - placed the plow heel and pieces in it, Set it to 250 - then after a time at that temperature I raised it again and then again to 450F. I let it stay like that for about 1 hour.
3. I removed the pieces, placed the broken out parts in place and used steel I had laying around to keep it all still
4. Brazed the biggest chip back in on both sides.
5. Put it back in the oven at 450F for 30 minutes
6. Removed it and put the smaller chip in and brazed that both sides.
7. Back in the oven at 450F, slowly lowering the temperature over the course of 1.5 hours to 150F. Then I turned the oven off - left the door shut until it was cool enough to handle with bare hands.

Here is the result.
IMG_4453 (800x600).jpg
In the oven on cool down

IMG_4462 (600x800).jpg
Finished with 80 grit and die grinder.


Thanks everyone another Forum Save!
Ken
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex


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