New Generator and Voltage Regulator

[DickB]

Here's a THANK YOU to all who over the winter talked and advised about that "not charging" issue with a 6v. positive ground setup. Following the instructions in the #8 flowchart, I found myself at the bottom of the page...and that meant a bad generator. It was the original and that means 60 years old, so that was that. The regulator was apparently still good but the anti-vibration rubber mounts were broken up and since I was into it, I put a new one in along with a new gen. I went to the regional Case-IH dealer for this, paying more for the gen, but less for the reg. than a parts supplier offered. The parts guy knew to have me check the exposed shaft length, brushes, told me how to get the Woodruff pin out of the shaft (pincers do it nicely, a screwdriver doesn't). The gen. is a USA rebuilt one; the reg. is from India. I was advised to clean the points inside the reg. and so a fast swipe with 400 grit (darned fine) paper and then a business card soaked in denatured alcohol was put between the points and dragged through to clean off any oil or other residue. It was the dealer's experience that these reg's were fine and the few that acted up were fixed by such following around with the points.

There was a bit of concern that I wasn't perhaps up to the work on doing the replacement, and so the parts guy printed out for me a wiring diagram and suggested that I make darned sure that it was as it was supposed to be and connected. It all was and I checked it with a continuity meter to make sure there it was not only physically but electrically hooked up. I thought that if this paper was available to all that might be okay as it might help out when first starting to figure out what's right and wrong with a charging set up. Here's the paper (I had it in my back pocket so it's wrinkled):

[Jim Becker]

. . . I was advised to clean the points inside the reg. and so a fast swipe with 400 grit (darned fine) paper and . . .

You did well, except for this one item. NEVER use sand paper or any other abrasive paper on the points of a regulator, ignition points either for that matter. If you leave any grit imbedded in a contact point, it will severely shorten its life.

[DickB]

Jim, I agree however it was the suggestion of the guy at the dealers. I did follow up my "very light" swipe of 400- grit with a healthy dollop of denatured alcohol and hopefully that will have flushed out any grit. What was suggested was a file, not sandpaper, but I don't think there's a difference. We'll see. Thanks for the comment.

[Stanton]

Thanks Dick. Glad you got your new generator and regulator installed and I assume is charging fine.

The abrasive question came up at the MidMO CubFest last weekend in California, MO. John gave a seminar on wiring and charging with a 6V system and generator. Even though it may not seem like much difference, there is quite a difference between a points file and sandpaper. The fine grit in all abrasives have a tendency to dislodge when used and can get in many places that will cause trouble later, which is what Jim was warning about above.

As suggested, alcohol would be good to clean the points, but compressed air would be better to blow out any loose particles.

[tmays]

Big believer in keeping points file on hand. Cheap insurance, too. Just ordered 3 from my local part store for 1.95 each

[Jim Becker]

. . . What was suggested was a file, not sandpaper, but I don't think there's a difference. . . .

All the difference in the world. A point file does not shed sand, or aluminum oxide, or whatever other grit was glued to the paper. That is why he said to use a file.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Ignition files are only $2.99 at NAPA. If you have an account that gives you a discount, even less.

[LincTex]

NEVER use sand paper or any other abrasive paper on the points of a regulator, ignition points either for that matter. If you leave any grit imbedded in a contact point, it will severely shorten its life.

I seriously doubt that.

Although it sounds theoretically possible, ignition points are made of tungsten (not lead, or any other soft metal) and grit will not become "embedded" in them.

I've been using black "Wet/Dry" paper on ignition points for 30 years with great success.
Until you can prove otherwise with facts, I am going to proclaim this "opinion" as a myth that is "Busted".

[Jim Becker]

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=174&t=89711&p=711748#p711844

[LincTex]

Thank you Jim Becker, for posting up those images from the IHC manuals. I learned something new. It's interesting that the factory found it important enough to make note of it.