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Rework old style head compared to new style head
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Rework old style head compared to new style head
Anyone know how much metal that can be removed from the old style head part #251 228 R1 when resurfacing it? I want to make sure that it will not interfere with the domed style pistons. New style head is part #355 691 R2 used with domed style pistons. Thanks. Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
Still looking for information on this subject. Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
Stan, I can't answer your question but remember that someone (maybe Rick Prentice or Yogie) switched to domed pistons and had to mark and relieve the head just a little for clearance. The high altitude head was shaved to increase compression, although I don't know how much.
Bob
Bob
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
Thanks Bob. I've posted the details and pictures of this engine on the numbered loboy forum. The damaged head that I took off was the old style R1 while the parts books say the head for all number series should be the new style R2 head which I don't have but I do have a spare old style head. It will obviously work because someone used it before, I just don't know what was done to it to make it work. Here's the pictures of the old head and top of the block. Is this what the top of the pistons should look like? I've never seen the domed piston so I don't know.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
Can't you fix the old head Stan?
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
What ever you do with the replacement head. Get some modeling clay. Put a thin layer either on top of each piston or in each combustion part of the head. Using 4 bolts snug down the head without head gasket. Roll engine over by hand.
You are checking to see if a piston(s) hit(s) the head. If a piston hits the head, you will be able to see where you need to relieve the head or the piston.
Someone, I think John Puckett, talked about using a similar process.
You are checking to see if a piston(s) hit(s) the head. If a piston hits the head, you will be able to see where you need to relieve the head or the piston.
Someone, I think John Puckett, talked about using a similar process.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
grind the head if needed [ I do not think you will need to] DO NOT GRIND THE PISTON. Only remove enough material from the head to make it flat. Use the old head gasket and torque the head down as long as you have .030 clearance you will be ok unless you spin a bearing and then you will have problems anyway
Boss
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
Thanks Guys for all the input. Anyone know the difference in the R1 versis the R2 head? There had to be some change but so far, no one has commented on that. Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
you have both heads dont you have a look see
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Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
Boss Hog wrote:you have both heads dont you have a look see
That's part of the problem: I don't have a R2 head to compare. The one I took off that is damaged is R1 head, same as the one I plan to use in its place, hence trying to find out what is the difference. Thanks.
EDIT: Maybe this link to my other post on the 154 forum will show better what I'm dealing with:
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=88683#p706270
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
I cc'd both heads and posted the results a couple years ago.
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Re: Rework old style head compared to new style head
When building drag race engines or rebuilding engines I cut the heads .010" to make sure there flat. Or just till there clean. (+ or -)
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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