Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

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staninlowerAL
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Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri May 22, 2015 7:31 pm

I'm removing a damaged head that is not repairable or salvagable. I've gotten 12 bolts out, broke 1 and the last 2 will not move dispite rattling them with an impact wrench, soaking with penetrant and tapping with a hammer. I'm considering cutting the 2 remainding bolts heads off using a minigrinder with a cutting disc so I can get the head off, then weld a nut on the bolt shank and be able to get some penetrant oil down into the threads. Any other options or suggestions, pro or con? Thanks, Stan :?: :?:

Edit to add picture. Yeah, I know, it's a 154 LoBoy. The engine part is the same.
8Head removal.JPG
Last edited by staninlowerAL on Sat May 23, 2015 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby ricky racer » Fri May 22, 2015 7:54 pm

Seems like a reasonable plan to me... You might try giving the bolts a couple more raps with a heavy hammer, then trying again with the impact wrench or breaker bar before you cut the heads off. Don't be shy...
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby Bob McCarty » Fri May 22, 2015 8:05 pm

Stan, depending on whether the stuck ones are long or short and their location, cutting off the heads may make it difficult to get the head off.

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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby challenger » Fri May 22, 2015 8:19 pm

Some of the head bolts go into the water jacket where the ends get corroded. If the head is cut off, it might make it easier to get it to move by turning the head bolt down a little first before working it back and forth to remove it. As you suggest, removing a bolt with the shank on it is a lot easier than removing one that has twisted off flush with the block.

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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby Bus Driver » Fri May 22, 2015 8:46 pm

Heat the bolt down near the engine block, as red as possible without melting. Lightly tap it a few times on the end with small hammer while letting it cool, then weld the nut onto the bolt, let it cool and lightly tap with hammer again, apply penetrant and try the wrench. Removing the bolt requires movement. Heat expands it-- moving it. Tapping moves it. Those actions probably will permit the wrench to move it completely out.
This what works for me.
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri May 22, 2015 9:12 pm

Bob McCarty wrote:Stan, depending on whether the stuck ones are long or short and their location, cutting off the heads may make it difficult to get the head off.

Bob

Thanks for all the suggestions and yes, the two remainding are one short and one long. They are center and left side second row from the front. If I can't get the head off, I guess I could cut it into two pieces if worse case happens.

ricky racer wrote:Seems like a reasonable plan to me... You might try giving the bolts a couple more raps with a heavy hammer, then trying again with the impact wrench or breaker bar before you cut the heads off. Don't be shy...

I've already hit them pretty hard but the hammer is a small ball peen. I might try a larger hammer along with the impact. The one that broke, I was using the breaker bar and it was next to the worst freeze damage area.

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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby knucklebuster » Fri May 22, 2015 10:33 pm

I use a big punch and a big hammer. Sometimes a little heat, too. Works for me.
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby pickerandsinger » Sat May 23, 2015 4:53 am

I recently broke two bolt heads off…Side by each…I drilled the bolts to allow them to Collapse a little with the head on, and sprayed them with Kroll ....I managed to get the head up enough to slide a couple of bars under it by prying….Then I hung it from the shop crane (engine puller) by the bars and a couple of chains, engine stand and all(about 3 inches off the floor) and sprayed it with kroll repeatedly …I used an air chisel gun with a roll punch in it and worked on both and eventually the head let loose…I welded a nut to the remnants and they broke the studs off flush with the engine block :oops: …( I don't have torches……Yet)….I drilled the remaining studs in the block and retapped and heli-coiled the block…I even managed to put a 25% tear in my rotator cuff doing it :shock: …Looking back I'd definitely go with Bus Drivers theory even if it meant waiting to get a set of torches…. :lol:…Dave….
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby Clip » Sat May 23, 2015 9:02 am

Have you tried tightening with the impact? On occasion I'll try to run them in just a little bit and then back out to break them loose.

Another idea is this beast. I'm really considering buying one after getting to use an induction furnace.

http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Buster-BB2-A ... B00ATSL7VE

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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby Lightning rod » Sat May 23, 2015 12:39 pm

You can use a set of left handed drill bits. The closer to the diameter of the bolt the better. That way as you are drilling tge center of the bolt out you are moving the bolt in the loosening direction.
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Sat May 23, 2015 3:56 pm

Tried a bigger hammer, impact in both directions, still adding penetrant, nothing moves. Still not giving up for the cutting disc yet. I want to save the head to use as a drill guide for the one that's got to be drilled and tapped.

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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby PVF1799 » Sat May 23, 2015 4:29 pm

When I did Rex'48 over - I could not find hard enough left handed drill bits. I ended up buying solid carbide 2 flute drills used for aircraft maintenance. I now have the drill guide that goes in the head, so you know you are drilling in the center. I had one hole that needed a heli-coil because I could not drill in the center. It was a very long process. Take a look at these drill bits. They drilled the hardened bolts as if they were cold rolled steel.

Carbide.jpg
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby Bus Driver » Sat May 23, 2015 4:50 pm

For those inclined to try welding a nut onto a broken bolt stub, it is better to use the stick electrode welder than the MIG as the stick gets much hotter and penetrates the stub better, both mechanically and thermally.
This obviously would be done after the head is removed.
If the idea is to drill in the center of the bolt from the original head to the other end of the bolt, that is quite an ambitious and hopeful expectation. Any deviation of angle will result in an off-center hole in the engine block.
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PVF1799
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby PVF1799 » Fri May 29, 2015 6:56 pm

Here is the tool I will now use to drill out head bolts in the future. I just realized I bookmarked it when I had busted head bolts. Didn't have it then but it's in my tool box now.

Ken
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staninlowerAL
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Re: Tips to Remove siezed headbolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri May 29, 2015 8:57 pm

Thanks Ken. I had seen this before but kinda forgot about it. I will definately make one before trying to remove the broken bolt. Stan


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