Cub broke left Drag Link

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ToddW
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Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby ToddW » Wed Jun 17, 2015 5:23 pm

It just snapped on my 51 Fcub with the wager loader on it. Just turning in my blacktop driveway the left side tire spun sideways and there it sits.
The metal looks cast iron so welding a temporary fix until I get a good one most likely won't work.

Have not heard of this happening and searching threads shows nothing on this topic :help:

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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby Don McCombs » Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:58 pm

Is this the part we are talking about, Todd?

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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby ToddW » Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:19 pm

Yes. I took it off, cleaned it up and it felt more like steel so I welded it up but have not put it back together yet. Mine snapped right where the red paint ends in your pic. The break had rust in it half-thru so there must have been a hairline crack at that location for at least a while.

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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby SONNY » Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:27 pm

If you stick welded it,---it will last longer than the rest of the tractor!---NOW if you WIRE welded it----NOT good idea! thanks; sonny
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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby Eoghan » Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:48 am

I'm pretty new to welding, why is the stick better than wire in this case? stick machines are usually cheaper too, aren't they?

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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby pickerandsinger » Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:10 am

Sorry for your misfortune….But being new to welding as you are I would have to say that Wire welding is for welders and stick welding is for us "Stickers"….At least those have been my personal observations ( it works better )….Good luck with your drag link….Dave….
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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby pickerandsinger » Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:12 am

Sorry I got confused on who said what, but I guess y'all can figure it out….:-) Dave
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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby gitractorman » Thu Jun 18, 2015 7:19 am

Stick welders tend to get hotter at the point of the weld, and tend to penetrate a little better. Given that, a wire welder can work just as good as a stick welder if the settings are correct. Also, Wire welders are MUCH easier to use for the beginner welder.

I would grind a V in it and weld it up as good as you can. If you use a wire welder, set it at a high temperature and have at it! It will work just fine.

Also, I'm not surprised that you broke it with a front loader on a Cub. That drag link is probably the weakest point in the Cub front end, and I've seen them break from a front tire dropping into a hole while mowing, so the extra stress from the weight of the loader makes sense. You're right though, it's probably been cracked for a while and just finally let loose.
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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:28 am

I am not a professional welder, but have been a hobby welder for 50 years. The stick welders such as Lincoln 225 are hotter welders than the little wire feeds most people buy at the big box stores. Wire feeds capable of doing the heavier, hotter jobs run a lot more dollars than stick welders capable of doing the same, so the wire feeds I and most other buy are only good for thin metals.
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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby Eugene » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:56 am

Eoghan wrote:I'm pretty new to welding, why is the stick better than wire in this case? stick machines are usually cheaper too, aren't they?
You can get a lot more penetration into the material being welded with a stick welder than a wire welder.

Stick welders are usually a bit cheaper than wire welders. Stick welders are typically trouble free. My stick welder is somewhere around 50 or 60 years old and still in working condition, no moving parts when welding. I also have a wire welder. I doubt that it will survive and be in working condition for any where near that long, to many moving parts.

There is a place for both types of welders in the shop.
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Re: Cub broke left Drag Link

Postby Bus Driver » Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:04 pm

If you have a convenient choice, use a 7018 electrode. Works best on DC reverse polarity but it is possible to use it on AC. My process would be to butt the broken pieces in alignment, weld one side with MIG enough to hold them together during the process of grinding out the V on the other side. Weld the V with 7018 then grind the MIG welded side and complete with the 7018.
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