Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

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mountain4don
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby mountain4don » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:20 pm

I pulled the left gearbox off the Cub and the same problem is wrong with the left side. The brake drum had slid out on the axel from inside the brake shoe and the anchor bolt was broken off and the nut missing. The brake band was all messed up. So, now what do I do with it? I have to figure out how to get the broken anchor bolt off and order the bolt and the nut. And the seals: DF044 and DF245 for both sides from TM Tractor. And another brake band 358753R22. Anything else I might need? Besides gallons of gear oil that I have already? And what do I need to do to keep these brake drums anchored in place correctly? I checked and the brake pivot pieces don't have bushings in them. The ends of the rods just pivot in the iron castings.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

Jim Becker
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:54 pm

The brake drums are supposed to be held in place with setscrews that seat onto the keys. The setscrews should each have a locknut. If you currently have bolts, replace them with setscrews. Keeping them tight is hard enough with the proper hardware!

mountain4don
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby mountain4don » Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:38 pm

I have the original setscrews and locknut on the right side with the setscrew broken and the lock nut missing from the left side. And both of the brake drums moved inboard. So, what torque do I need to apply to these pointed, square setscrews to make the drums stay in place with the keys in place and held with the setscrews?
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

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Glen
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby Glen » Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:45 pm

Hi,
The Cub LoBoy owner's manual says the final drives hold 1 1/2 pints of oil each. That's less than 2 quarts each, so less than 1 gallon of oil for both.
The service manual says for the brake drum set screw, "tighten the set screw and lock nut securely," is all I see they say, I don't see they say any torque number. It is in the 2nd paragraph number 1. Here is the page below.
You could use a standard torque table, if you are going to use a torque wrench on them.
Click on the pic makes it bigger. :)

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 007-10.jpg

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Dale Finch
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Jul 08, 2015 6:51 am

Those square head, pointed set screws are available at many hardware stores as well as the jam nut.

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Don McCombs
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby Don McCombs » Wed Jul 08, 2015 7:59 am

Dale Finch wrote:Those square head, pointed set screws are available at many hardware stores as well as the jam nut.

As well as here...

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/4721fp.htm
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mountain4don
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Re: Starting on 59' Cub Lo-Boy Brakes

Postby mountain4don » Wed Jul 08, 2015 8:09 am

Ok, I ordered everything I think I need including two of the set screw/nuts from TM Tractor. Now the trick is getting the broken off piece of the old setscrew out of the brake drum. Any ideas on how to do that? One of the problems with their setscrew/nut configuration is that after screwing in the setscrew to some particular torque, when the lock nut is screwed in tight it deforms the screw slightly and takes up all the slack in the threads effectively loosening it against the key in the shaft. So, should I put a lock washer on the setscrew before putting on the lock nut and only tighten it "firmly" to squash the lock washer? Instead of super tight so it pulls the setscrew up in the bore slightly? I've heard of a lot of this problem happening to people.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M


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