Cub Wiring

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dgc71
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Cub Wiring

Postby dgc71 » Wed Jul 15, 2015 4:05 pm

Hows everyone doing, new to the page and have some questions on wiring my cub. Their are 4 prongs coming off the regulator, I believe I have everything wired correctly except the L terminal on regulator. I have a wire going from the L terminal on regulator to the light switch, but everytime I turn the switch on the wire gets extremely hot and terminal will smoke. any help or input would be greatly appreciated thanks

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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby Glen » Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:37 pm

Hi,
Welcome to the website. I'm not sure if you have the wire going to the right terminal on the light switch, the owner's manual shows where the wires go, for most or maybe all years of Cubs.
What year is the Cub, is it 6 or 12 volts, if it is 6 volts, it needs bigger wire than 12 volts. The wire might be too small, and gets hot. I think I have seen on here that they use number 12 wire for 6 volts, I have used number 10 wire on a Cub I had.
Have you sanded all the wire connections, and wire ends, and cleaned them, dirt and corrosion can make them have poor contact and possibly get hot. Hope you can get it to work better. :)

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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby George M » Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:53 pm

You can remove the Voltage Regulator's cap by removing the two screws on top. The exact same thing happened to our 1951 6v cub, it would smoke when the lights were on. Our regulator was rusted and wasn't doing anything. We're restoring it now and replacing the regulator and most electrical components. Hope you solve this, George.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:01 pm

I believe you have the wiring wrong. I think you have the L lead connected to the light switch where the FLD lead would go on a generator using a cutout. The L lead should be connected to the fuse holder if it is separate. On light switches having the fuse on the back, the L lead is not used and the lights get there power from the ammeter.
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dgc71
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby dgc71 » Sat Jul 18, 2015 10:58 am

Thanks for the input. Im not sure what year it is but its a 6 volt set up. I am using number 12 wire for it. Im going to replace the wires, switch, and regulator. They are all pretty rusted and corroded. The only thing that makes me think. My light switch has the fuse holder on the back and it is getting its power from the ammeter. What is the L wires job ?

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:55 am

On later models having the fuse in the dash rather than the light switch, the lead from the ammeter to the light switch was eliminated and replaced by one going from the fuse holder to the L lead. The L lead then provided power for ignition and lights, and allowed the regulator to react more quickly to drain from the lights, etc. rather than waiting till the battery discharged some to kick in.

I assume your light switch has 4 positions, L, H, D, B, which would have been used with a cutout, and the cut out has been replaced by a regulator at some time.
Original wiring (with cutout and distributor)
Image

Later wiring with regulator.
Image
Diagrams compliments of Farmall Bob
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dgc71
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby dgc71 » Mon Jul 20, 2015 2:11 pm

I have the 4 way switch set up with the fuse on the back, It runs without the L wire hooked up and the lights work. Is the L wire needed? Do you think someone before me replaced the old generator and regulator with the wrong one?

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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby clodhopper » Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:39 pm

dgc71 wrote:I have the 4 way switch set up with the fuse on the back, It runs without the L wire hooked up and the lights work. Is the L wire needed? Do you think someone before me replaced the old generator and regulator with the wrong one?

Yes, someone changed it. The four position switch was used with a cutout, not a regulator.

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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:49 pm

dgc71 wrote:I have the 4 way switch set up with the fuse on the back, It runs without the L wire hooked up and the lights work. Is the L wire needed? Do you think someone before me replaced the old generator and regulator with the wrong one?
Someone has replaced the cutout with a regulator at some time, and since it runs and lights work the L lead is not needed. Make sure you have a wire from F of generator to FLD of regulator or it will not charge. May need to polarize it by now.
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby Scrivet » Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:18 am

clodhopper wrote:
dgc71 wrote:I have the 4 way switch set up with the fuse on the back, It runs without the L wire hooked up and the lights work. Is the L wire needed? Do you think someone before me replaced the old generator and regulator with the wrong one?

Yes, someone changed it. The four position switch was used with a cutout, not a regulator.
This is a correct statement for the four position switch dgc71 has (with the fuse on the back) but not for ALL four positions switches. Remember there are two four position switches LHDB and the later ODBR.

dgc71
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby dgc71 » Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:37 pm

I have the field wire on regulator hooked up to field wire on generator so it should charge, I believe my switch was the LHDB but how who I know for sure? And what would the wiring differences be? Really appreciate all the help you guys are giving.

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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:51 pm

The LHBD switch is not square like the others, it has round bulge on one corner, kind of like the bolls you occasionally see on a tree.
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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby Scrivet » Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:57 pm

Picture of a LHDB in this thread. Notice the attached fuse and two resistors (light switch dimmer resistance coil and generator field resistance coil)
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86790&p=691744&hilit=light+switch#p691744

Picture of an ODB in this thread. No attached fuse (now on dash) and no generator field resistance coil (now using voltage regulator). Only has light switch dimmer resistance coil.
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=51305&p=426609&hilit=light+switch+picture#p426609
And wired up in this thread.
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40105&p=332237&hilit=light+switch+picture+three#p332237

Picture of an ODBR courtesy of TM Tractors. This is the six volt version, twelve volt looks the same as far as I know just a different value for the dimmer resistance coil.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/1536fp.htm

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Re: Cub Wiring

Postby Rudi » Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:46 am

For those of us who are slightly electrically challenged .. this might be helpful ... took me a while but I finally got it and it has stuck ... it might be of help for you Generator and Cut-out. The replacement part is actually a regulator ... which is the biggest part of the confusion it seems when it comes to using the 4 position light switch ..
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