It couldn't be easy

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Lightning rod
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It couldn't be easy

Postby Lightning rod » Thu Jul 16, 2015 11:56 pm

Ive been tied up lately with work and family so progress on my cub has been slow but I'm finally close. I've cleaned the tank (filthy), added a fresh battery, changed the fuel line ( completely clogged with dried fuel) cleaned the carb. It all hit a dead stop today when I went to change oil and prime the oil pump. When I pulled the filter I found an inch of "sludge" in the housing and I'm certain there's more to be found. Any advice to clear this mess without extensive tear down? I'm not prepared at this point to dive in too deep without being able to complete it in a timely manner
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Rick Spivey
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby Rick Spivey » Fri Jul 17, 2015 5:06 am

You can clean out a lot of the sludge with kerosene. DO NOT actually start the engine while doing this, I would probably only use the hand crank and turn it over once or twice at most; most of the sludge you are trying to clean will be in the bottom of the pan. You can also drop the oil pan and simply clean it out, but the back three bolts take something like a 1/4" drive ratchet and one or more swivels to get at.
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:47 am

I'd drop the oilpan, and clean the sludge, making sure the intake screen is clean. Once it's running, change the oil, after a couple of hours use.
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dgrapes59
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby dgrapes59 » Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:02 am

I would also drop the oil pan, a new gasket is cheap insurance to make sure you got the sludge out. Don't forget to clean the oil filter drain pipe, comes out of the bottom of the housing, it is the intended way to keep the sludge out of there.

Good luck,
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby Dale Finch » Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:07 am

I agree with Rick...drain your oil pan and drain the oil filter housing (cap on that pipe stub next to the filter housing). Check for "junk" like metal pieces in that drained oil. Then remove the filter cap and filter. You can pour some kerosene into the filter housing, and start digging around in there with a screwdriver to loosen the gunk...it should run out the pan drain plug hole. Loosely replace the pan drain plug and continue to add kerosene to the filter housing until clean. Make sure you clear out the filter housing drain tube...it may be plugged...poke with wire or screwdriver. Remove the pan plug and continue to flush with kerosene until clear. You can poke a wire up into the pan plug hole to loose any sludge, but be careful...the oil pickup screen blocks it pretty well. I can actually get a finger in there to check for foreign material.

When you feel everything is clean, install a new filter with a new gasket and bolt crush washer, replace the cap on its drain tube. Then install the pan plug with a new crush washer, and add your oil.

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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby NJ Farmer » Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:19 am

Without a doubt with all that sludge I would drop the oil pan and remove clean and inspect the oil suction screen and oil pan. Replace the oil pan gasket with a new gasket and remember the back three oil pan bolts are hidden behind the bell housing cover and are screwed into the ALUMINUM real seal retainer so do not over torque because you can strip out the treads.

If everything runs and sounds good (no smoke and no knock) I wouldn't even think of any internal surgury but you need to keep things clean and sludge free. With Today's oils you sould not have any sludge issues in the future.

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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby dgrapes59 » Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:16 am

Not meaning to offend anyone, and not wanting to open up a can of worms… flushing with kerosene is definitely better than nothing and will help, but, this may be a good place to mention this….

It is also “standard practice” to flush transmissions with kerosene and to drive them around to better distribute and clean (as noted, NEVER do that with an engine!). After doing so on several Cub Cadets (basically same transmissions) I have drained out some real crud and felt like I had cleaned them out. Until, on a couple occasions, I have had the need to pull the rear cover after flushing and was amazed at the sludge that was still left inside. :o
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CC 73 trans after flushing with kerosene.jpg
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby cub.bub » Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:27 am

I found the same with my 55 Cub, dropped pan and cleaned drain tube, had to run a wire to clear the tube. I was really surprised when I went to change the seeping radiator gasket and found about an inch thick of crud in the bolster bottom, flushed and cleaned everything......I couldn't help but think that after all that the ole gal was THANKING me when she fired up and purred out of the shop. :)
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby Puffie40 » Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:10 am

For the first oil change use a high detergent oil (ie 15-40 for diesel engines) and change the oil the moment it is noticibly black. After that regular oil is fine.

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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby Lightning rod » Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:52 pm

Thanks for the input guys. I ran kerosene through it, worked it through the engine, then drained it. I dropped the oil pan and cleaned it. I gave it plenty of time to make sure I got the kerosene out. Now I've got it buttoned back up, filled and primed. Now to the new problem. It turns over great but I've got no fire at any plug. I've cleaned the contacts at the distributor and all plug wires and still nothing.
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Re: It couldn't be easy

Postby Rudi » Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:27 am

This is probably the easiest way to help - Ignition Circuits

I would be checking the points and point gap as a start. Also check the stud where the condenser connects - make sure the insulators are present and nothing is cracked or broken. Check the cap for spark lines or tracing to ensure the spark isn't being misguided.

It is probably something very simple . just takes some patience and methodic trouble shooting. Work back from the plugs and check everything including all connections.
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