This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
1951 Engine Seized
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
LeoM
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 137
- Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2014 7:02 pm
- Zip Code: 32713
- Tractors Owned: FARMALL FORUM
1966 Cub w/ IH 1000 Loader
1958 LoBoy w/ Wagner 45 Loader
1952 Cub w/ Woods 48" Bush Hog
1948 Super A w/ Finish Mower
1944 A w/ 3 Point Hitch - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Central Florida
1951 Engine Seized
I bought a 1977 Cub and got a 1951 with it for free. The 51 looks real good. Always kept in a clean barn and the only rust is surface rust around the battery box. The engine is seized. I tried just soaking the cylinders with Kroil and rocking it back and forth to no avail. I pulled the head and it appears all 4 pistons are frozen. I am planning to drop the pan and remove the rod bearing caps so I can work the pistons one at a time. I expect to find the cylinders needing to be seriously honed or bored out Any advice on how to best proceed is appreciated.
-
Barnyard
- Team Cub
- Posts: 24271
- Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:39 pm
- Zip Code: 45030
- Tractors Owned: At This Time
40 Farmall Cubs (Round Hood)
2 Farmall Cub (Square Hood)
2 IH Cubs (Square Hood)
5 Lo-Boys (Round Hood)
2 Lo-Boys (Square Hood)
2 Farmall 404's
1 Farmall H
1 Ferguson 20
1 Cub Cadet 125
1 Kubota B-7100 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, New Haven (Hamilton County)
- Contact:
Re: 1951 Engine Seized
Have you tried removing the starter and turning the engine backwards to see if it will budge? I cured two of them like that.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.
-
ScottyD'sdad
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7508
- Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:00 pm
- Zip Code: 02769
- Tractors Owned: 6"F" cubs
5 lo-boys
1 154
1 184
1 IH444
1 Oliver OC3 crawler
1 AC D10
1 IH 100 manure spreader
1 IH model B corn grinder
3 power units
cub demonstrator - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ma. Rehoboth
Re: 1951 Engine Seized
I use a wooden "pin" the diameter of the bore, cut flat on the bottom, and tap it with a hammer, to free the pistons. I've used it with a hydraulic press, on some extra stubborn pistons. Tap the wood pin, add Kroil, give it time to seep in, and repeat.If that doesn't free it, I use the press. Once freed, hone above the piston, lubricate, and push it out the top.
Ed
Ed
Member of Chapter 18, and National
-
staninlowerAL
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4989
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: 1951 Engine Seized
If the starter is not stuck then your idea is probably the best way to go. I just freed a 154 C60 engine by dropping the oil pan and rod caps so I could work the pistons one at a time. Depending on the position of the crank lobes, it can be a bit of a challenge to get to the wrist pin boss on the pistons which IMHO is the best place to apply force. I used a 1/2 inch rod and lube on the top and bottom. On one piston I had to remove the top half of the rod bearing to move it downward enough to break the bond between the piston and cylinder wall but it moved upward after that. You might have to remove the ring grove at the top to get the pistons out. Cast pistons can stand a bit more force than the aluminum ones without damage. Keep track of the pistons and the matching bores as well as the side the rods face and the bearings locations if you plan to put them back in to test the engine. It's definately doable, just a bit time consuming. Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 47 guests
