First time with Cub 22 mower

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FCPhil
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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby FCPhil » Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:27 pm

Bob McCarty wrote:If the sections (knives) need to be replaced, there is a tool call a Johnson Sickle Servicer. It will shear off the old sections, pop out the rivet stubs and then set the new rivets in the new sections. There are probably at least a dozen forum members that have them and one may available close to you or at a Cubfest. You can remove and replace the sections by hand but it is a lot more work. Above the section is a ledger plate attached to the rock guard. They are serrated. The section slides past the ledger plate and whatever is in the way gets cut. If the sections are too worn to sharpen, the serrated ledger plate is worn out, or the 5 hold downs are loose (not keeping the blade tight against the ledger plates), you won't get a good cut. As Bulldawg suggested, read through the manual and make sure your sickle mower is set up correctly. If you see a possible problem area, post some close up pictures for us to see.

Bob

Do they sell the Johnson Sickle Servicer as NOS or do you have to find one on eBay or craigslist. I have a set of knives that are NOS in the original box and I would like to install them.

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WaMoo
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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby WaMoo » Wed Jul 29, 2015 10:33 pm

Johnson Sickle Servicers are real nice, but real expensive! For my two cutter bars. A sickle repair tool (looks like two back to back "C's") works real handy. One side punches out the rivets, and the other side peens them. I know our local CaseIH dealer has them, but I bought mine from a neighbor for $10.

For parts, I've had good luck with Webbs Sickle Service. I only use under-serrated sections. Properly tuned, I can cut even fine grass with no problem.

Good references are the IH Blue Ribbon Service Manual for sickle mowers available on this website and Lynn Millers "Horse Drawn Mower Book". The cutter bars on my Cub-22 and my McD #9 horse drawn mower are identical. I think farmers paid a lot more attention to their cutter bars when they were horse drawn in order to bring the draft to an absolute minimum. If you put that kind of care into a Cub-22, it'll hum like a sewing machine with very little vibration and do a fine job cutting.

Also, I've been sold on adjustable hold-downs. Highly recommended!
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Bob McCarty
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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Jul 29, 2015 11:08 pm

Bob[/quote]
Do they sell the Johnson Sickle Servicer as NOS or do you have to find one on eBay or craigslist. I have a set of knives that are NOS in the original box and I would like to install them.[/quote]

I believe they are still available new, but several hundred dollars. That's why I suggested trying to find one close by or attend a Cubfest.

Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

FCPhil
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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby FCPhil » Fri Jul 31, 2015 7:13 pm

I watched some videos on the old-style servicer and found the website for the new one. I also read some stuff about the new bolts that people are using. What's your opinion on the bolts and nuts?

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WaMoo
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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby WaMoo » Fri Jul 31, 2015 9:00 pm

A lot of people really like using the bolts and nuts. I personally have no experience with them. I consider myself more a traditionalist, and use rivets... But, I have all the tools to do rivets. If I was starting from scratch, I would seriously have to consider both options.

One thing I would be curious about if using bolts to attach sections is their ability to shear. Trimming along a fence line once, I got a little too close and hit a steel "t" post. All it did was shear the rivets and the section popped off.

Other things I have heard of for upgrading (or just a different way of doing things) is using swather type double guards, stub guards near the inner and outer shoes, and upgrading the whole bar with a SCH EasyCut system. The only thing right now I'm interested in is maybe trying a few stub guards near my outer shoe.
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Matt Kirsch
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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:22 am

When I went to rebuild my first knife bar, I intended to use the bolts. Unfortunately the thick nuts won't clear the original hold down clips. I didn't want to bother with replacing them with those overpriced aftermarket hold down clips when mine were perfectly fine, so I just went with rivets.

BTW, maybe someone already mentioned this but, the easy way to clean the old sections off the knife is to close your bench vise down so the sections will just slip between the jaws, point down. Hang the bar on one of the jaws, and smack the back of each section smartly with a hammer. This shears off the rivets and the sections drop to the floor. Helps to have a nice sharp jaw edge on the vise.

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Re: First time with Cub 22 mower

Postby DickB » Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:46 am

Matt Kirsch wrote:When I went to rebuild my first knife bar, I intended to use the bolts. Unfortunately the thick nuts won't clear the original hold down clips. I didn't want to bother with replacing them with those overpriced aftermarket hold down clips when mine were perfectly fine, so I just went with rivets.

BTW, maybe someone already mentioned this but, the easy way to clean the old sections off the knife is to close your bench vise down so the sections will just slip between the jaws, point down. Hang the bar on one of the jaws, and smack the back of each section smartly with a hammer. This shears off the rivets and the sections drop to the floor. Helps to have a nice sharp jaw edge on the vise.


Matt, I've only used the bolts on the end knife and I don't know if that goes under the hold down or not. But the nut is supposed to be under the bar and the flat-ish screw head on top of the knife. The screw head seems to be no thicker than a rivet head.

Nice hint on how to shear old rivets. BTW, when I bought some rivets (IH-Case dealer)for the end ledger that required a countersunk head, the rivets are drilled out for some length on the peening side and the metal seems soft enough for easy peening. Don't know if these kinds of rivets are made with regular heads or not, but they are a pleasure to rivet.


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