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48 farmall cub cranking help
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
I think I've found the problem I check again today to make sure the #1 cylinder was on TDC, the marks aligned on the front spindle and the governor marks were aligned and low and behold they are not, the engine is on TDC but the governer is off a bit do I have remove the front cover to turn the governer gear or can it be turned without removing the cover
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Eugene wrote:... Photo of the $700- wiring harness/stainless steel tube?
Yes, that would indeed be interesting.
Bill
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Battery powered ignition system? If so all you need to do is time the distributor to the engine.
First mark on the pulley to line up with the pointer on the engine front cover is 16 degrees in advance of TDC. Second mark to line up with the pointer is the TDC mark.
First mark on the pulley to line up with the pointer on the engine front cover is 16 degrees in advance of TDC. Second mark to line up with the pointer is the TDC mark.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Matt in nc wrote:I think I've found the problem I check again today to make sure the #1 cylinder was on TDC, the marks aligned on the front spindle and the governor marks were aligned and low and behold they are not, the engine is on TDC but the governer is off a bit do I have remove the front cover to turn the governer gear or can it be turned without removing the cover
You did not say but assuming this is on the compression stroke.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Yes it's on the compression stroke
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Eugene wrote:Battery powered ignition system? If so all you need to do is time the distributor to the engine.
First mark on the pulley to line up with the pointer on the engine front cover is 16 degrees in advance of TDC. Second mark to line up with the pointer is the TDC mark.
Please explain further Eugene I am not mechanically inclined but not as smart as most folks I know just enough to get me by. What second mark. I lined the pulley mark up with the pointer on compression stroke tdc. Then aligned the distributer rotor button on #1 plug it acts like it wanuts to crank just wont run
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
A '48 Cub would normally have a magneto unless it has been changed for a battery/distributor ignition system. Here's what the mag looks like:
Here's a distributor with the cap and rotor removed:
Hope this is helpful. Stan
Here's a distributor with the cap and rotor removed:
Hope this is helpful. Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
The ignition system fires when the points open. The spark from the ignition system has to reach the cylinder when the piston reaches TDC.
Your engine belt pulley may only have one mark, that's TDC. Two marks explained earlier.
Basically, you need to install the distributor housing so that the #1 plug tower on the distributor cap is at about2 o'clock and that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower position, and the points close to opening. This is critical and may take several tries to get it right.
Now you need to static time the engine. There is a video, I think, on this site on static timing.
Your engine belt pulley may only have one mark, that's TDC. Two marks explained earlier.
Basically, you need to install the distributor housing so that the #1 plug tower on the distributor cap is at about2 o'clock and that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower position, and the points close to opening. This is critical and may take several tries to get it right.
Now you need to static time the engine. There is a video, I think, on this site on static timing.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Still not sure if yours is a magneto or battery/distributor ignition system. Each one has some differences that must be considered when timing.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
@Eugene and @staninlowerAL
I aligned the pulley mark with the engine pin with the #1 cylinder closest to the radiator on the compression stroke at tdc. I then went over where the distributer is pulled it and the part that slides into the governer as explained in the static timing video. The hash marks in there were not aligned with instead of it being at 2 and 8 it's at like 1 and 7. My distributer cap has no #1 marking anywhere on it I ordered it from ebay. So I didn't figure it matter as anyone one could be #1 the plug tower that I made #1 is pointing straight up as is the rotor. Since reading your post I see this is not correct.
I have read the plug wires on the cap go clockwise, if your looking at the cap and #1 is the first plug the second one to the right would be #2 then #3 and so forth correct? But the firing order is 1342 how do the plugs on the cap go to the individual pistons 1 being at the front 2 being the next one back matched to the dist. Cap or does it go 1 being first, 2nd plug tower going to number 3 piston, 3 tower going to number 2 piston and so forth?
I do not have the black box on top to the distributer anymore I was told to replace that with a 12v coil, so I did also ordered from ebay.
@Stan don't get frustrated at me but not sure what you mean, I have a battery that goes to a kill switch,light switch,a voltage gauge,the starter, distributer, the alternator,the 3 lights, and the coil. The tractor is no longer a positive ground 6volt it is a negative ground 12v. It's not on a key you still have to pull the rod to crank it.
I aligned the pulley mark with the engine pin with the #1 cylinder closest to the radiator on the compression stroke at tdc. I then went over where the distributer is pulled it and the part that slides into the governer as explained in the static timing video. The hash marks in there were not aligned with instead of it being at 2 and 8 it's at like 1 and 7. My distributer cap has no #1 marking anywhere on it I ordered it from ebay. So I didn't figure it matter as anyone one could be #1 the plug tower that I made #1 is pointing straight up as is the rotor. Since reading your post I see this is not correct.
I have read the plug wires on the cap go clockwise, if your looking at the cap and #1 is the first plug the second one to the right would be #2 then #3 and so forth correct? But the firing order is 1342 how do the plugs on the cap go to the individual pistons 1 being at the front 2 being the next one back matched to the dist. Cap or does it go 1 being first, 2nd plug tower going to number 3 piston, 3 tower going to number 2 piston and so forth?
I do not have the black box on top to the distributer anymore I was told to replace that with a 12v coil, so I did also ordered from ebay.
@Stan don't get frustrated at me but not sure what you mean, I have a battery that goes to a kill switch,light switch,a voltage gauge,the starter, distributer, the alternator,the 3 lights, and the coil. The tractor is no longer a positive ground 6volt it is a negative ground 12v. It's not on a key you still have to pull the rod to crank it.
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
No problem, sounds like yours has been made a full 12v conversion except the distribution of the fire is still being done by a mag that has been gutted of the coil and magnet. If your entire mag was replaced with a distributor like my second picture in the other post, then disregard my previous comment. Hang in there, you'll get it figured out. Click on the picture makes it larger.Matt in nc wrote:@Eugene and @staninlowerAL
I aligned the pulley mark with the engine pin with the #1 cylinder closest to the radiator on the compression stroke at tdc. I then went over where the distributer is pulled it and the part that slides into the governer as explained in the static timing video. The hash marks in there were not aligned with instead of it being at 2 and 8 it's at like 1 and 7. My distributer cap has no #1 marking anywhere on it I ordered it from ebay. So I didn't figure it matter as anyone one could be #1 the plug tower that I made #1 is pointing straight up as is the rotor. Since reading your post I see this is not correct.
It sounds like your gear might be out of time one or two teeth. If so, it is possible to correct this by rotating the gear but someone else will have to guide you or do a search for that particular subject.
I have read the plug wires on the cap go clockwise, if your looking at the cap and #1 is the first plug the second one to the right would be #2 then #3 and so forth correct? But the firing order is 1342 how do the plugs on the cap go to the individual pistons 1 being at the front 2 being the next one back matched to the dist. Cap or does it go 1 being first, 2nd plug tower going to number 3 piston, 3 tower going to number 2 piston and so forth? Once you establish #1 tower, the second tower is #3 plug, third tower is #4 plug, last tower is #2 plug.
I do not have the black box on top to the distributer anymore I was told to replace that with a 12v coil, so I did also ordered from ebay. If yours looks like the first picture then you still have a magneto ignition, just the internal mag coil has been has been replaced with a 12v external coil. It still times the same as a regular mag. The attachment picture from the service manual should guide you on this if that's the case. Does your new 12v coil have a internal resistor or do you have a ballast resistor between the coil and the points?
@Stan don't get frustrated at me but not sure what you mean, I have a battery that goes to a kill switch,light switch,a voltage gauge,the starter, distributer, the alternator,the 3 lights, and the coil. The tractor is no longer a positive ground 6volt it is a negative ground 12v. It's not on a key you still have to pull the rod to crank it.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
I found this old post that might help. You can go back and read it in its entirety.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
So I'm going to have to pull the front cover off the motor again to turn the gears
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Re: 48 farmall cub cranking help
Not unless the crankshaft gear and camshaft gear were not timed correctly when the engine was reassembled. I think you can change the mag/distributor drive gear without removing the cover but someone else will have to tell you how to do it or you might find an old post on this. I know it has been discussed several times before.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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