1952 Cub

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farmallcub52
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1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:28 pm

:help: Hello all I found this site and joined because I was searching for answers but apologize if I am beating a dead horse but couldn't find something that was directly what I was looking for.

I have a cub no magneto version that has been having issues lately and today they came to a head. The cub has a new battery and it doesn't stay charged so when I use it I always had to charge the battery. Fine I dealt with that then the starter started getting slower and slower when trying to start with a full charged batter... BTW the cub is 6V. I figured to use my jump starter on 12v to start it did that a few times ran fine. Well today it didn't I figured maybe it needed a tune up so changed condenser points distributor button cap but the wires and plugs were recently changed. I tried and tried to get it started straight off the battery and the 12v jump starter. I put a jumper wire on the pull out on/off switch nothing I took switch completely off nothing. I took wire off distributor and held 1/4 inch away to see if I could see spark nothing. I put test light on pos and neg side of coil and if not mistaken think I got some light on both sides. I tried to crank it and put the light inside the coil and it did not light up. Does it have to be a bad coil since I was jumping it off of 12v ? What else could cause a no spark problem? Is it beneficial to just convert over to 12v ? What would I need to do to make it 12v? If theres any tests you suggest could you dum it down for me I am not a mechanic but tinker a lot. I love my cub and my yard needs mowing :lol: :lost: :lost: :lost: :lost: :lost:

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:05 pm

When switch is on, the battery side of the coil should have a light. The distributor side should gon on and off as the engine turns over. The points closing grounds the coil and turns the light off. If the light is on steady at the distributor side, check the setting of the points, and also clean the contact surface of the points, some of them come with a coating to keep them from corroding while being shipped across the sea. That coating must be removed.
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farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:10 pm

Thank you I will try that. If I sprayed it with carb cleaner would that take the coating off? I did make sure the clearance was correct with the gauge a few times though. Is their another way to check the coil without having high dollar tools ?

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby danovercash » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:26 pm

Clean points with point file or paper grocery bag, never sandpaper or emery cloth.
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farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:16 am

I didn't have time to clean the points before work but I did test the test light on the coil sure enough it has juice. I tried to crank the light went bright to low to bright as engine turned. I took the switch off because I am going to replace it so I tied all the wires together so I could be sure I had power going to the coil. I still do not have any fire coming out the coil to make the test light flash though and am not sure it would do that.

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:52 am

John (and the others) have you covered on this, when the points are closed and grounding, you will have NO light with your test light. Are you using a hand crank or starter to turn the engine? The starter turns it so fast, it might look like the light is still on dim. Best to remove the dist cap and take a look at the points and make sure they are closed when testing with the light. The spark from the coil wire to ground can only happen when the points are opening and closing directing the fire to ground at the points. There is no electrical wire connection inside the coil between the primary and secondary windings.

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Eugene » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:24 am

Battery discharging problem. There is a diagnostic chart on this site.

I suspect that the Cut Out in either the regulator or the cut out is stick shut, causing the battery to discharge.
There is no electrical wire connection inside the coil between the primary and secondary windings.
Depending on how the coil is manufactured, frequently, one of the coil's secondary winding terminals is attached to the primary winding.

Common fault. Check to see that the points spring and/or condenser lead are fastened above the insulator where the lead/wire from the coil pass through the distributor housing and not grounded out to the distributor housing.
I have an excuse. CRS.

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:54 am

staninlowerAL wrote:John (and the others) have you covered on this, when the points are closed and grounding, you will have NO light with your test light. Are you using a hand crank or starter to turn the engine? The starter turns it so fast, it might look like the light is still on dim. Best to remove the dist cap and take a look at the points and make sure they are closed when testing with the light. The spark from the coil wire to ground can only happen when the points are opening and closing directing the fire to ground at the points. There is no electrical wire connection inside the coil between the primary and secondary windings.


Thanks I am using the starter to turn it over but its going just as slow as a hand crank :lol: battery is dying. I will try that this evening

Eugene wrote:Battery discharging problem. There is a diagnostic chart on this site.

I suspect that the Cut Out in either the regulator or the cut out is stick shut, causing the battery to discharge.
There is no electrical wire connection inside the coil between the primary and secondary windings.
Depending on how the coil is manufactured, frequently, one of the coil's secondary winding terminals is attached to the primary winding.

Common fault. Check to see that the points spring and/or condenser lead are fastened above the insulator where the lead/wire from the coil pass through the distributor housing and not grounded out to the distributor housing.


This is what the old stuff looked like before I changed it

Image

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:09 am

I did notice someone gapped the points with seemed to be a bigger gap originally in there than the one that came with the tune up kit. Could that be an issue too? I used the tune up gauge for the gap.

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Mike in Louisiana » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:22 am

mag 13
dist 20
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farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:47 am

Mike in Louisiana wrote:mag 13
dist 20


I assume you mean the gap size ???

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Eugene » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:52 am

I dealt with that then the starter started getting slower and slower when trying to start with a full charged batter.
Clean up all battery terminals and cable connections.

Move the battery ground cable from the battery box to the top of the transmission.
I have an excuse. CRS.

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 10:18 am

Thanks you guys are really helpful here. I like that.

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:06 pm

20 = .020"

If you find the battery is running down, disconnect it when you're done using the tractor until you investigate and fix the problem. Repeated full discharges of the battery will ruin them quickly. That is probably why the engine was cranking slower and slower. Automotive type batteries are not designed for repeated deep discharges.

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:13 pm

staninlowerAL wrote: The spark from the coil wire to ground can only happen when the points are opening and closing directing the fire to ground at the points. There is no electrical wire connection inside the coil between the primary and secondary windings.

Take a look at the BLUE RIBBON SERVICE MANUAL GSS1310 pages 30 through 34 for a full explanation of the ignition circuit and how it works.
http://www.farmallcub.com/[ Sorry, direct links to manual section is not allowed. ]/downloa ... 011-65.pdf


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