1949 Cub Clutch Pedal

[ccollver]

I am almost certain there is something on this topic. but being new I was not able to find it after I registered.
I decided to register as I have found this site so incredibly helpful to say the least!

So I recently pulled my Cub out of a barn where I parked (pushed) it just over 20 years ago. Serial# 81470 I believe that lands into the 1949 club?

This cub has a shade-tree mechanics mower deck attached as I used to use it to mow my fathers grass landing strip for his single engine plane.
The day I pushed it into the barn was the day the clutch stopped working and at the impatient age of around 20 I didn't give a second thought
to walking away. Needless to say after getting it home I have a new found passion to bring him back to life!

"They don't make things like they used too."

Cleaned the carb, cleaned the gas tank and filter bulb, changed the oil and filter, new battery. Left the rusted spark plugs in place and pulled the choke...
after about three rotations it fired right up!

After all that sentiment...My current issue.

The clutch actually works, but it does not want to come back up after it is depressed. I have lubricated the hinge of the clutch peddle to the best of my ability
and checked the spring to assure it still has a decent amount of tension. I thought I ran across a thread about "the forgotten grease zerk" located on the throw out bering
(TOB). Could lack of lubrication on the TOB create this issue? Today at a lunch break from work I was able to find the Hand Access Hole and low and behold there
is also no cover....which I will be ordering ASAP. Would greasing the TOB be worth trying before I order a new clutch?

Thanks in advance and thanks to all of you for this plethora of great information!

[Jim Becker]

At this point I'm sure the TOB needs to be greased, but it won't fix this problem. It usually comes back to the return spring or the clutch pedal pivot shaft. Maybe the lube you have put on the shaft hasn't worked its way in yet.

Here are 3 past threads that are related:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=38382
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=52022
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77184

[Bob McCarty]

Welcome to the Forum.

Bob

[ccollver]

Thank you for the quick reply. I will get my other work clothes on when I get home and give it a try.

[Scrivet]

Your great story ALMOST makes up for the fact that you didn't include any pictures.

Welcome to the forum (and make sure you have oil pressure after sitting that long)

[Dale Finch]

(and make sure you have oil pressure after sitting that long)

Check out posts on "Priming the Oil Pump". Or maybe you did check the oil pressure gauge for pressure? Have fun with your resurrected toy!!

[ccollver]

Thanks for all the input. I do have some pictures so I will see if I can work on posting some here shortly. I do wish I had taken some pictures of it right when I got it home or even still sitting in the old barn, but I didn't really know where I was going with this project when I pulled it out. As I have really cleaned it up a lot from its original sitting state. But its still in rough condition...

I did research (here) and was able to prime after the oil change and the pressure is good.

As for the clutch, after sitting overnight from my first attempt to get some lubrication (I used an aerosol 3-1 oil as it was what I had on hand) at the base of the pedal I added some more and got underneath to put some grease on the TOB and worked it for a good 10 mins it seems to be working great!

I do believe I read also there is about an inch of play, which there seems to be. So although the clutch pedal returns well it still is about 1 inch short as it pertains to lining up with the break pedals. I assume this is normal and it also looks like there is a bolt I could loosen and adjust the pedal to stop even with the break if I so desired? I say this as the bolt is all the way to the right side of the slotted portion on this adjustment.

My next issue so to speak is with the mower deck and I also should stand corrected as after looking at some other pictures it appears this may be a belly deck that was designed to go on the cub. The only reason I assume it may not be is the number of modification it appears to have including some rough welding on the mounts and 3 sets of chains that attach to the hydraulic lift. I would have to believe from the appearance that some or maybe even all of the connections are not "stock". After some grease and TLC the blades spin freely and the rpm seems sufficient, but once I pull it off the lawn (3-5 inches) of grass and attempt to mow some weeds (12-24 inches) the deck slowly comes to a halt, the tractor stops moving and the pto stops spinning so its not like the belt is slipping. If I place the cub into reverse it will move and the deck will start to build up rpm's again and it goes back to "normal". I don't feel like the clutch is slipping, but then again the tractor does not stall.

I will see if I can find a thread on the topic of mover decks and at least post my question in the correct area.

[staninlowerAL]

After some grease and TLC the blades spin freely and the rpm seems sufficient, but once I pull it off the lawn (3-5 inches) of grass and attempt to mow some weeds (12-24 inches) the deck slowly comes to a halt, the tractor stops moving and the pto stops spinning so its not like the belt is slipping. If I place the cub into reverse it will move and the deck will start to build up rpm's again and it goes back to "normal". I don't feel like the clutch is slipping, but then again the tractor does not stall.

If the engine is running and the trans is in gear/clutch out and the tractor does not move or engine stall the next thing I would look at is the clutch slipping. Shifting into reverse and backing up is taking the load off the clutch/pressure plate. The PTO is driven from the engine, not the trans so that again makes sense that the clutch is slipping. IMHO, Stan

[ccollver]

Yeah, you are correct. I don't know why I didn't put that together after looking back over what I stated...

Thanks Stan

[staninlowerAL]

Hey, no problem. I learn something new almost every time I do anything with these tractors.

[tmays]

Clutch pedal should rest against the floor pan.

[Scrivet]

...... I assume this is normal and it also looks like there is a bolt I could loosen and adjust the pedal to stop even with the break if I so desired? I say this as the bolt is all the way to the right side of the slotted portion on this adjustment...........

Clutch pedal should rest against the floor pan.

As tmays says the clutch and the brake pedals should rest against the floor pan with spring pressure holding them there. That bolt won't move the pedal position but it will change the clutch finger to TOB distance inside the bell housing. Get that out of whack and you can have no clutch at all or hit clutch fingers on TOB hanger. Maybe just a rattle if you're lucky when you depress the clutch, if you're unlucky.......... well, just don't adjust it until you have read and understand that section of the manual.

[brewzalot]

I do believe I read also there is about an inch of play, which there seems to be. So although the clutch pedal returns well it still is about 1 inch short as it pertains to lining up with the break pedals. I assume this is normal and it also looks like there is a bolt I could loosen and adjust the pedal to stop even with the break if I so desired? I say this as the bolt is all the way to the right side of the slotted portion on this adjustment.

Clutch pedal should rest against the floor pan

The 1" of free play is the distance the pedal travels starting from the all the way out position (against the floor pan as stated), to where the throw out bearing starts touching the clutch fingers. . The slot you referred to is where you adjust this, at least it is on a '61 cub. However, I thought the earlier tractors did not have that adjustment...the veterans here will correct me shortly if I'm wrong on that.

Tim

[Scrivet]

....... However, I thought the earlier tractors did not have that adjustment..........

You're right (or wrong ) depending on your definition of "earlier"
The insanity ended in June of 1948 at Cub Serial #32229 (found in a quick check of Raymond's Database)

[Eugene]

From an ancient post.

Crawl under the Cub. Remove the inspection plate. Set and block the adjustment lever/slot so that the throw out bearing is 1/4" from the fingers on the pressure plate. Now loosen the bolt and set the pedal so that you have a bit of free play.

While you are under the Cub check the condition of the throwout bearing. Probably needs to be replaced. Just in case it doesn't, grease it.