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Working the cub or trying to atleast

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Eugene
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 19, 2015 3:57 pm

workacub wrote:I took off the cap lined up the marks to TDC and It was not pointing at cylinder one on distributor cap. I took it off placed it pointing where it should put it back in. Just out of curiosity took the motor put it at TDC the button was no where near it is that normal?
Normal. TDC mark on pulley indicates that either cylinder #1 or #4 cylinder is at TDC.

Once you change ignition points and correctly install the distributor, you need to static time the engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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workacub
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:33 am

Eugene wrote:
workacub wrote:I took off the cap lined up the marks to TDC and It was not pointing at cylinder one on distributor cap. I took it off placed it pointing where it should put it back in. Just out of curiosity took the motor put it at TDC the button was no where near it is that normal?
Normal. TDC mark on pulley indicates that either cylinder #1 or #4 cylinder is at TDC.

Once you change ignition points and correctly install the distributor, you need to static time the engine.


I didnt think you static timed my version.

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workacub
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:43 am

could running for a few minutes and then cutting right off be symptoms of a bad carb float?

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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby Barnyard » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:56 am

workacub wrote:could running for a few minutes and then cutting right off be symptoms of a bad carb float?

Possible, but if it is stuck half way you would not be getting enough fuel to keep it running. That is easily checked by removing the plug at the bottom of the carb to see if you have a steady flow. If the flow is good then I would rule out the float.
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby tmays » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:13 am

Yes, you can static time it. If your rotor is pointing to number one tower at TDC on the compression stroke then
Loosen bolt holding distributor. Turn distributor clockwise a little ways. Pull number one plug wire. Turn ignition switch on. While holding plug wire close to a ground, slowly turn distributor counter clockwise until you see a spark. Tighten distributor clamp bolt down and that's it. Since I usually already have plug out on number one to check compression stroke, I leave plug attached to wire and lay it on a ground and watch for spark.
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:25 am

So do I need to completely remove the distributor and reset TDC again ? When you say turn distributor counter clockwise do you mean by using the hand crank or the actual distributor housing ? I have never did anything like this so I am sorry if this sound stupid. I can do anything to a car mechanically but this tractor is the worse thing I have ever encountered even rebuilding injection pumps and putting back on isnt this bad.

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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby tmays » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:38 am

Do you have one or two timing marks on the front pulley? Pull number one plug. Place your thumb over plug hole. Have a buddy turn crank until you feel air pushing against your thumb. At that point you can take your thumb away. Slowly turn crank until pointer meets timing mark. If there are two timing marks, then turn until pointer reaches second timing mark. Mark side of distributor at number one tower location. Remove distributor cap. Is rotor pointing to where number one tower on distributor?If so, then put rotor and cap back on,then do as I posted above. To answer your question, you rotate the distributor itself. Do not move the crank or rotate engine. Leave it at TDC on number one on compression stroke
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Eugene
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby Eugene » Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:09 am

2nd photo. Engine is either set on #1 cylinder, compression stroke, TDC or --- #4 cylinder is at TDC exhaust stroke.

3rd photo. There appears to be a scratch on the distributor housing under the distributor caps #1 cylinder plug tower. Engine #1 cylinder TDC compression stroke, the scratch is used to reinstall the distributor. It may take several tries to get the distributor correctly installed with the rotor pointing to the scratch mark.

The next step is to static time the ignition (spark).

Do you need to remove the distributor? Perhaps. Remove the #1 spark plug. Finger in spark plug hole. Have someone roll the engine over until you feel compression. Then align the pointer to the mark on the pulley.

For new Cub owners, one of the best things they can do is attend a Cubfest or two. Fest attendees are typically folks who grew up on ancient technology. They are willing to help, explain, demonstrate how things work.
Last edited by Eugene on Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:11 am

Thanks I only seen one mark. Thanks Eugene that ancient stuff isnt too friendly. I put that mark on there when I put it in tdc I didnt know you had to static time it. Would static timing really make that much difference that it would cut slam off after running for 2 minutes?

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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby Eugene » Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:31 am

2 minute run time sounds like a fuel related problem.

Static timing is important. The ignition system fires when the points open. Any minor error is ignition timing is doubled by the crankshaft rotation.
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:59 am

im getting plenty of fuel pours out when take bottom bolt out and i cleaned and bled carb out completely. I may try and do a video so everyone can hear it. The battery may be weak from trying to start it but it starts,... Could it lose power due to battery not charged and really week and not able to keep spark going.

Eugene
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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby Eugene » Mon Sep 21, 2015 11:48 am

workacub wrote:The battery may be weak from trying to start it but it starts,... Could it lose power due to battery not charged and really week and not able to keep spark going.
It takes a minimum of approximately 4.5 volts for the coil to spark. However, since the battery has enough power (amperage) to crank over/start the tractor, weak battery is likely not the culprit.

Normally once the tractor starts the generator kicks in, providing current to the battery and tractor's electrical system.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 12:13 pm

very strange its not the coil cause it ran off the 2 old ones and 3 new out the box and does the same thing.

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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:24 pm

question How do you test the generator to see if its working correctly ? My battery I think is shot because I went to test it it was dead so on charge again. Is it possible battery holds enough charge to start then dies out because generator isn't functioning?

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Re: Working the cub or trying to atleast

Postby workacub » Thu Oct 01, 2015 3:06 pm

All I replaced battery and now it runs fine I guess that means I need to get my generator rebuilt. The battery after fully charging it would only get to 3.81 volts


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