What all would be involved in removing a fast hitch from one cub and installing it on another?
What tools are needed and what tools may not be needed but would be handy?
Both tractors are the standard cub.
Thanks!
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Fast Hitch
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Re: Fast Hitch
lots of labor and patience mostly. A small come along would be handy.
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Re: Fast Hitch
One 15/16" combination wrench and/or shallow well socket and ratchet drive
One pair 10" slip joint pliers or standard vise grips to remove cotter pins
One 16-24oz hammer
One medium drift punch 1/4" to 3/8" diameter
I think you need a 3/4" wrench and a set of 9/16" wrenches to remove the helper spring bracket.
One pair 10" slip joint pliers or standard vise grips to remove cotter pins
One 16-24oz hammer
One medium drift punch 1/4" to 3/8" diameter
I think you need a 3/4" wrench and a set of 9/16" wrenches to remove the helper spring bracket.
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Re: Fast Hitch
If the rear wheels are set narrow, it's much easier to remove one to attach the FH to the rear finals.
Bob
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Re: Fast Hitch
One good pair of leather gloves to absorb some of the pain from pinched fingers.
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Re: Fast Hitch
A couple of 'rests' to support the bail on each side at the bearings is a life saver
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Re: Fast Hitch
Make sure that the arm on the receiving tractor is the same as the donator tractor. This is due to the lift assist set up.
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Re: Fast Hitch
Hi,
I lift my Fast Hitch with a lift from the ceiling, it works good, no lifting by hand that way. If you have an engine lifter, that would be handy. Lift it with a chain or strap around middle of the bar that goes between the big brackets, just to the rear of the battery box. It is well balanced lifting it there. Disconnect it from the lever, or crank, on the right side, at the bail first, and the lift rod also.
If you are using a ceiling lift, you need to remove the pan seat, just the seat itself, not the spring assembly, so the chain will go straight up. Then you can't drive the tractor, you need to roll it by hand ahead while the lift holds the hitch.
It's not hard to do, it is easier than by hand, my opinion.
If you have an engine lifter, with the boom that sticks out, you probably don't need to remove the seat.
The wheels need to be wider than the narrowest setting too, or remove one like Bob said above.
When you get the hitch in position, 2 punches are handy in the 5/8 inch holes, one on each side, to align the bracket holes on the final drive holes, to put the bolts in.
The Fast Hitch came out with Cub serial number 185001, they also changed the Touch Control rockshaft then, made it from bigger material, the arms on the ends of it are thicker, and they added the arm for the helper spring. I think that is when Touch Control block number 360719R1 was first used.
If you have an older Touch Control, and put a Fast Hitch on the Cub, it's probably better to not use really heavy loads on the hitch. The rockshaft or arm on the left side might bend, I've never had one like that, just my thought about it.
I lift my Fast Hitch with a lift from the ceiling, it works good, no lifting by hand that way. If you have an engine lifter, that would be handy. Lift it with a chain or strap around middle of the bar that goes between the big brackets, just to the rear of the battery box. It is well balanced lifting it there. Disconnect it from the lever, or crank, on the right side, at the bail first, and the lift rod also.
If you are using a ceiling lift, you need to remove the pan seat, just the seat itself, not the spring assembly, so the chain will go straight up. Then you can't drive the tractor, you need to roll it by hand ahead while the lift holds the hitch.
It's not hard to do, it is easier than by hand, my opinion.
If you have an engine lifter, with the boom that sticks out, you probably don't need to remove the seat.
The wheels need to be wider than the narrowest setting too, or remove one like Bob said above.
When you get the hitch in position, 2 punches are handy in the 5/8 inch holes, one on each side, to align the bracket holes on the final drive holes, to put the bolts in.
The Fast Hitch came out with Cub serial number 185001, they also changed the Touch Control rockshaft then, made it from bigger material, the arms on the ends of it are thicker, and they added the arm for the helper spring. I think that is when Touch Control block number 360719R1 was first used.
If you have an older Touch Control, and put a Fast Hitch on the Cub, it's probably better to not use really heavy loads on the hitch. The rockshaft or arm on the left side might bend, I've never had one like that, just my thought about it.
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