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Update on my 49 Cub
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4994
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
This "How To" might be of some help. viewtopic.php?f=141&t=47391
There is also topics on the PTO repair as well.
There is also topics on the PTO repair as well.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Thanks for all the good information. Going to get the parts I need ordered and will update when I get my tractor fixed. Thanks again
Brett
Brett
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
I got all the parts I needed and got the new tranny bearing and PTO in and everything is working good. I had to split the tractor at the transmission so I could get what was left of the old bearing out, which was not easy to do, but everything else went smoothly.
Thanks, Brett
Thanks, Brett
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Got a question about my Cubs power. I have a hill on my property that has some weeds and dead growth on it, so I decided to try to use my sickle mower on it. The Cub runs good and the mower does good, until I started trying to go up the hill, it wouldn't go up the hill without trying to die on me unless I disengaged the mower, and even then it seemed to have trouble finishing the hill. This is the bottom of the hill
Thanks, Brett
I was going up on the other side of the brush pile, it gets a little steeper, but not much, the further you go up. Should my Cub pull this hill without a problem? If so, what would be causing my loss of power? Thanks, Brett
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20378
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Start your investigation with compression checks, dry first then wet.
Not knowing the degree of incline - - the Cub should climb the hill in 1st gear. I have a fairly steep inclined drive on the acreage. My Cub will climb the incline in 3rd gear if I get a running start. Also have a very steep incline on the acreage going up to the pasture on top of the hill. Cub in 2nd gear would pull the incline. I always stop at the bottom of the incline and shift into 1st. Brakes on the Cub suck, don't want to stall out on the incline.
Before I replaced the my Cub's engine, 70 psi on each cylinder, 1st gear would climb the drive way and handle a flail mower.
Not knowing the degree of incline - - the Cub should climb the hill in 1st gear. I have a fairly steep inclined drive on the acreage. My Cub will climb the incline in 3rd gear if I get a running start. Also have a very steep incline on the acreage going up to the pasture on top of the hill. Cub in 2nd gear would pull the incline. I always stop at the bottom of the incline and shift into 1st. Brakes on the Cub suck, don't want to stall out on the incline.
Before I replaced the my Cub's engine, 70 psi on each cylinder, 1st gear would climb the drive way and handle a flail mower.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6152
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Hi,
Besides checking the compression, check the engine timing with a timing light. If the timing is late, the engine won't have as much power as when it is timed right.
Also the points need to be good, old burned points can cause it to not start good. Spark plugs and spark plug wires need to be good too. The terminals in the distributor cap need to be clean and not burned, they can be cleaned, or shined up, but if they are burned much, a new distributor cap is better. A burned looking rotor should be cleaned up, or replaced too.
Besides checking the compression, check the engine timing with a timing light. If the timing is late, the engine won't have as much power as when it is timed right.
Also the points need to be good, old burned points can cause it to not start good. Spark plugs and spark plug wires need to be good too. The terminals in the distributor cap need to be clean and not burned, they can be cleaned, or shined up, but if they are burned much, a new distributor cap is better. A burned looking rotor should be cleaned up, or replaced too.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
I have replaced the spark plugs, points, condenser and distributor cap. I did that back in the summer. I didn't replace the wires, they looked good. The one thing I didn't replace that I probably should is the pinion gear under the rotor. It has some worn teeth but it seemed to be running good, so I didn't replace it. I actually forgot about it until you mentioned the spark plugs and wires in your last post. I will check the timing and the compression. Thanks for all the good info.
Brett
Brett
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Thu Dec 24, 2015 4:13 pm
- Zip Code: 72576
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Mite also try reajust your valve lash to.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Hi all, wanted to post some pics of what I found when I took the head off my Cub. I checked the spark plugs and the #1 and #2 plugs were wet with oil, so I figured I needed to go ahead and replace the rings. This is what I found when I took the head off
Thanks, Brett
As you can see the top of the #2 piston has some issues. I got the pistons out and took a closer look at #2. What could have caused this type of damage, all those little holes, in the block, and why only on 1 of the valves and not the other? This is what I found on the cylinder wall Those black spots are not holes or scratches its just some crud that needs to be gotten off. Anyone have an idea about how to get that off without scratching the wall? This is a closer look at the piston The only issues I saw with the rings on that piston was that the third one down is stuck, will not move at all, doesn't look broke, so I'm not sure what the problem is. I have not tried to clean that piston yet, have any ideas on how to get that stuff off? Do you think I will need to replace that piston and the one valve? I would appreciate any help.Thanks, Brett
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5214
- Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:08 pm
- Zip Code: 12514
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
I bet the engine was sitting a long time and water had gotten in there rotting the metal
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20378
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Disassemble the engine. Mark or label the valves and pistons so you know where to replace them.
Remove the piston rings. You may have to break them to remove them. The oil ring is full of crud, oil, combustion debris, common.
You need to hone the cylinders before installing pistons with new rings. Honing puts a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls - basically very tiny scratches.
You might try solvent on the piston head to loosed the carbon build up. You might try spray brake cleaner on the cylinder walls to remove some of the crud before honing the cylinder.
Do not purchase any parts until you inspect, measure, record, every engine part. Then you can determine needed machine work and parts.
There appears to be considerable pitting in the #2 cylinder wall. Guessing you will need to have the cylinders bored and new pistons.
Remove the piston rings. You may have to break them to remove them. The oil ring is full of crud, oil, combustion debris, common.
You need to hone the cylinders before installing pistons with new rings. Honing puts a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls - basically very tiny scratches.
You might try solvent on the piston head to loosed the carbon build up. You might try spray brake cleaner on the cylinder walls to remove some of the crud before honing the cylinder.
Do not purchase any parts until you inspect, measure, record, every engine part. Then you can determine needed machine work and parts.
There appears to be considerable pitting in the #2 cylinder wall. Guessing you will need to have the cylinders bored and new pistons.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6152
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Hi,
The stuck oil rings will make the engine burn oil and smoke from the exhaust. The rings all need to be free moving on the pistons.
If you are reusing the same pistons, clean all the black oily carbon off them, it can be stuck hard on the top and upper areas of the pistons. But like Eugene said, the engine might need reboring. You should measure and see how much wear there is.
The pitting is probably from rain water that got in the exhaust pipe, and sat in the engine, in the past. A common thing on vertical exhaust system tractors if people leave them outside, and no cover over the pipe or muffler top.
The stuck oil rings will make the engine burn oil and smoke from the exhaust. The rings all need to be free moving on the pistons.
If you are reusing the same pistons, clean all the black oily carbon off them, it can be stuck hard on the top and upper areas of the pistons. But like Eugene said, the engine might need reboring. You should measure and see how much wear there is.
The pitting is probably from rain water that got in the exhaust pipe, and sat in the engine, in the past. A common thing on vertical exhaust system tractors if people leave them outside, and no cover over the pipe or muffler top.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Thanks for the good information.
Brett
Brett
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:32 am
- Zip Code: 35757
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
1950 Case SC
Re: Update on my 49 Cub
Hello everyone, its been awhile since I have given an update on my Cub. The reason its taken so long is because I took a break from working on her after my dad passed away in February, as you can imagine I had a lot to do as far as helping my mom get done with everything she needed to do. I did get back to work on my Cub and after new pistons, which it is now bored .040 over, new rings, rod bearings, new gaskets throughout, new clutch, transmission bearing and my wife doing a lot of painting, this is my Cub now
Thanks, Brett
That is me and my daughter having some fun. My pawpaw had 2 tractors, the Cub and a 1950 Case SC. I was able to get that tractor also, which is going to be my next project to work on, this is her I hope everyone has a great day.Thanks, Brett
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