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Cub 22 Restore Project

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Stanton
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Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Stanton » Mon Oct 12, 2015 7:52 am

Bought this little Cub-22 sickle bar mower in 2013 at an auction for pocket change. Very dirty and rusty; just the kind of challenge I like. So I'll start this thread, not as a teaching How-To, but as a chronicle of things I encounter (meaning: I may need everyone's help answering some questions along the way).

Sitting in a dry, unoccupied chicken coop since I bought it:
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Here are some more shots of its overall condition:
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That was the weekend of Oct 5th. Here are some more progress from this past weekend (Oct. 10th-11th):
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Check out this crooked hanger rod!
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Couldn't get the hinge pins to come out, so cut them out:
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Removed all the knife guards. Some where serrated, some smooth:
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Was worried this crank nut was going to break, but it came off without any issues:
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Ok Cub-22 experts; I read in the Service Manual that the cutter bar is supposed to be curved upward to compensate for the outer shoe. Take a look at this and tell me if you think my bar is curved too much; can also see a twist in it:
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Also appears the coupling bar is bent--needs to be straight, correct?
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Don McCombs
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Don McCombs » Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:26 am

Photo #16...

Yes and yes on the coupling bar. Also, it looks like the rectangular tab has been broken off and rewelded.
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby randallc » Tue Oct 13, 2015 5:51 am

Nice project for you.. It is already looking new. Going to enjoy this thread. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Guinea, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub, 61 Cub, Scrapy, and 48 Cub Al, 48 cub, Billy D.
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby ih424 » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:00 pm

Picked one up a few weeks ago bout in the same condition and complete to fix up. Got a wild hair to now the ditches of all the thistle and milk weeds so threw together a pitman hit lube points and installed on cub as it was. No adjusting or timing and it cut pretty darn good. Was impressed with the little guy. Gotta love simple machinery where everything can only go one way and you can fix it with a hammer wd40 and a craftsman wrench. God bless America!

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Stanton
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Stanton » Thu Oct 15, 2015 6:33 am

ih424 wrote:Picked one up a few weeks ago bout in the same condition and complete to fix up. Got a wild hair to now the ditches of all the thistle and milk weeds so threw together a pitman hit lube points and installed on cub as it was. No adjusting or timing and it cut pretty darn good. Was impressed with the little guy. Gotta love simple machinery where everything can only go one way and you can fix it with a hammer wd40 and a craftsman wrench. God bless America!


Glad to hear it. Mine sounds like it's in a little worse condition. When I got it, the cutter bar wouldn't even move back and forth.
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Stanton
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Location: Lone Jack, MO

Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Stanton » Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:57 am

More progress on the Cub-22 mower. Am really liking these warm October days; lots of opportunity to get outside (but we do need rain!).

Pitman arm disassembled and cleaned up (board appears bowed in picture, but is straight):
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A couple guards were broken, so bought replacements at TSC. Cleaned up the others:
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Pitman metals primed and painted:
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Pitman assembled:
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby SouthernOutlaw » Mon Oct 26, 2015 8:03 am

These types of projects are so enjoyable for me to follow. It looks like you're doing a fantastic job, and I cannot wait to see what the finished product is going to look like.

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Stanton
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Stanton » Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:59 am

Does the coupling bar (#3) thread into the inner shoe hinge (#17)?
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Jim Becker » Wed Nov 04, 2015 11:21 am

Yes. That is how you adjust the register of the knife (what some call "timing"). Part #8 (tilting clamp) in that drawing is what keeps it from turning.

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Stanton
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Stanton » Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:17 pm

Thanks, Jim. I'm trying to remove the shaft to take it to someone with a press large enough to straighten it. I have a small 12 ton press; which I don't think will do it.
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Puffie40 » Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:47 pm

A 12 ton might do it if you heat the shaft red hot beforehand. Perhaps look into building a small firebrick or refractory cement forge so you can heat the entire shaft with a propane torch.

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Don McCombs
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Don McCombs » Wed Nov 04, 2015 7:42 pm

Stanton wrote:Thanks, Jim. I'm trying to remove the shaft to take it to someone with a press large enough to straighten it. I have a small 12 ton press; which I don't think will do it.

Good luck getting it loose. :D
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Glen » Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:43 pm

Hi,
Looks like you are making progress on the mower. If you are going to use it for mowing grass, it will work better with some new parts. The knives you have are the smooth style, I think, a little hard to see them in the pictures. The serrated knives work better for me.
The ledger plates on the guards are worn smooth too, they work better serrated too. Here is a pic from an older IH brochure showing the ledger plate, and a serrated knife.
It is easier to replace the guards than the ledger plates. :)
Attachments
Mower.jpg
mower knife.jpg

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Stanton
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Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
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Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Lone Jack, MO

Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Stanton » Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:29 am

Glen wrote:...The knives you have are the smooth style, I think, a little hard to see them in the pictures. The serrated knives work better for me.
The ledger plates on the guards are worn smooth too, they work better serrated too...


Yes, the knives are smooth and the ledgers are serrated. Was planning to keep them that way. Thanks.
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Re: Cub 22 Restore Project

Postby Bus Driver » Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:59 am

On the idea of heating steel for straightening, it is helpful to know the effects of various temperatures. Working from memory, steel is stronger at temperatures in the range of 200-300 degrees. 800 degrees significantly reduces the strength and 1200 degrees reduces the strength to very low values. So for heating for bending, a dull red or hotter is advisable.
Preheating for thermal expansion, such as preparation for welding, is a different matter.
Luck favors those who are prepared


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