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Cub 22 Restore Project
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- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Cub 22 Restore Project
Bought this little Cub-22 sickle bar mower in 2013 at an auction for pocket change. Very dirty and rusty; just the kind of challenge I like. So I'll start this thread, not as a teaching How-To, but as a chronicle of things I encounter (meaning: I may need everyone's help answering some questions along the way).
Sitting in a dry, unoccupied chicken coop since I bought it:
Here are some more shots of its overall condition:
That was the weekend of Oct 5th. Here are some more progress from this past weekend (Oct. 10th-11th):
Check out this crooked hanger rod!
Couldn't get the hinge pins to come out, so cut them out:
Removed all the knife guards. Some where serrated, some smooth:
Was worried this crank nut was going to break, but it came off without any issues:
Ok Cub-22 experts; I read in the Service Manual that the cutter bar is supposed to be curved upward to compensate for the outer shoe. Take a look at this and tell me if you think my bar is curved too much; can also see a twist in it:
Also appears the coupling bar is bent--needs to be straight, correct?
Sitting in a dry, unoccupied chicken coop since I bought it:
Here are some more shots of its overall condition:
That was the weekend of Oct 5th. Here are some more progress from this past weekend (Oct. 10th-11th):
Check out this crooked hanger rod!
Couldn't get the hinge pins to come out, so cut them out:
Removed all the knife guards. Some where serrated, some smooth:
Was worried this crank nut was going to break, but it came off without any issues:
Ok Cub-22 experts; I read in the Service Manual that the cutter bar is supposed to be curved upward to compensate for the outer shoe. Take a look at this and tell me if you think my bar is curved too much; can also see a twist in it:
Also appears the coupling bar is bent--needs to be straight, correct?
- Don McCombs
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17429
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Photo #16...
Yes and yes on the coupling bar. Also, it looks like the rectangular tab has been broken off and rewelded.
Yes and yes on the coupling bar. Also, it looks like the rectangular tab has been broken off and rewelded.
- randallc
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:16 am
- Zip Code: 72940
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall Cub, 152 disk plow, 2 gang disk, belly mower, sickle mower
1949 Farmall Cub, cultivator, moldboard plow, disk,front blade. Cub Cadet, LTX1045 Mower. Cub Cadet's 109, 125, 1000, and 1250
1961 cub c2 belly mower and full blade. 48 cub manual lift with cultivators.
1947 Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Huntington, AR
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Nice project for you.. It is already looking new. Going to enjoy this thread. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:43 pm
- Zip Code: 65473
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Picked one up a few weeks ago bout in the same condition and complete to fix up. Got a wild hair to now the ditches of all the thistle and milk weeds so threw together a pitman hit lube points and installed on cub as it was. No adjusting or timing and it cut pretty darn good. Was impressed with the little guy. Gotta love simple machinery where everything can only go one way and you can fix it with a hammer wd40 and a craftsman wrench. God bless America!
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
ih424 wrote:Picked one up a few weeks ago bout in the same condition and complete to fix up. Got a wild hair to now the ditches of all the thistle and milk weeds so threw together a pitman hit lube points and installed on cub as it was. No adjusting or timing and it cut pretty darn good. Was impressed with the little guy. Gotta love simple machinery where everything can only go one way and you can fix it with a hammer wd40 and a craftsman wrench. God bless America!
Glad to hear it. Mine sounds like it's in a little worse condition. When I got it, the cutter bar wouldn't even move back and forth.
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
More progress on the Cub-22 mower. Am really liking these warm October days; lots of opportunity to get outside (but we do need rain!).
Pitman arm disassembled and cleaned up (board appears bowed in picture, but is straight):
A couple guards were broken, so bought replacements at TSC. Cleaned up the others:
Pitman metals primed and painted:
Pitman assembled:
Pitman arm disassembled and cleaned up (board appears bowed in picture, but is straight):
A couple guards were broken, so bought replacements at TSC. Cleaned up the others:
Pitman metals primed and painted:
Pitman assembled:
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:42 am
- Zip Code: 36736
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
These types of projects are so enjoyable for me to follow. It looks like you're doing a fantastic job, and I cannot wait to see what the finished product is going to look like.
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Does the coupling bar (#3) thread into the inner shoe hinge (#17)?
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17214
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Yes. That is how you adjust the register of the knife (what some call "timing"). Part #8 (tilting clamp) in that drawing is what keeps it from turning.
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Thanks, Jim. I'm trying to remove the shaft to take it to someone with a press large enough to straighten it. I have a small 12 ton press; which I don't think will do it.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:47 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
1939 Farmall H
1959 MF 202
1965 MF 180
1937 Caterpillar 22 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: BC Canada
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
A 12 ton might do it if you heat the shaft red hot beforehand. Perhaps look into building a small firebrick or refractory cement forge so you can heat the entire shaft with a propane torch.
- Don McCombs
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17429
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Stanton wrote:Thanks, Jim. I'm trying to remove the shaft to take it to someone with a press large enough to straighten it. I have a small 12 ton press; which I don't think will do it.
Good luck getting it loose.
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6095
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Hi,
Looks like you are making progress on the mower. If you are going to use it for mowing grass, it will work better with some new parts. The knives you have are the smooth style, I think, a little hard to see them in the pictures. The serrated knives work better for me.
The ledger plates on the guards are worn smooth too, they work better serrated too. Here is a pic from an older IH brochure showing the ledger plate, and a serrated knife.
It is easier to replace the guards than the ledger plates.
Looks like you are making progress on the mower. If you are going to use it for mowing grass, it will work better with some new parts. The knives you have are the smooth style, I think, a little hard to see them in the pictures. The serrated knives work better for me.
The ledger plates on the guards are worn smooth too, they work better serrated too. Here is a pic from an older IH brochure showing the ledger plate, and a serrated knife.
It is easier to replace the guards than the ledger plates.
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
Glen wrote:...The knives you have are the smooth style, I think, a little hard to see them in the pictures. The serrated knives work better for me.
The ledger plates on the guards are worn smooth too, they work better serrated too...
Yes, the knives are smooth and the ledgers are serrated. Was planning to keep them that way. Thanks.
- Bus Driver
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:26 pm
- Location: NC
Re: Cub 22 Restore Project
On the idea of heating steel for straightening, it is helpful to know the effects of various temperatures. Working from memory, steel is stronger at temperatures in the range of 200-300 degrees. 800 degrees significantly reduces the strength and 1200 degrees reduces the strength to very low values. So for heating for bending, a dull red or hotter is advisable.
Preheating for thermal expansion, such as preparation for welding, is a different matter.
Preheating for thermal expansion, such as preparation for welding, is a different matter.
Luck favors those who are prepared
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