Cylinder head cracked

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Cylinder head cracked

Postby jh60 » Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:52 am

1960 Fcub. I noticed a coolant leak and initally thought the head gasket leaking. Closer inspection revealed that the head is cracked about 2" long across the head (not lengthwise) between cylinders 3 and 4. I don't have the head off (yet). The engine is running alright, no smoke, there doesn;t appear to be any excessive pressure in the cooling system. I am thinking that the crack I see may be just on the upper portion of that particular cooling passage. How high is the pressure in the cooling system at operating temp? and can I clean the area real good and possible seal it up with jb weld? Thoughts, ideas?
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Re: Cylinder head cracked

Postby danovercash » Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:01 am

Others here have done exactly what you want to try. Should work and it will give you time to look for a replacement head. Repair may last a lifetime. Search archives for other similar post. Good luck! BTW, older Cubs are non pressurized, just a rubber gasket inside cap and open to atmosphere thru overflow pipe. If there is a pressure cap on your tractor it's not original.

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Re: Cylinder head cracked

Postby SouthernOutlaw » Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:17 am

A 48 cub I purchased years ago came with a cracked head. The head was cracked between the #3,and 4 plugs if my memory is good. Removed the head abd took it to a gentleman who brazed it for me. Never had a problem with it. Don't see why the jb weld want work.

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Re: Cylinder head cracked

Postby Eugene » Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:49 am

Couple of years after I purchased my standard Cub a crack in the head started to leak. The crack had been previously JB Weld patched. Cleaned up the old JB Weld and the crack, applied more JB Weld. My patch held until I replaced the engine, then I replaced the head.

There may be better epoxy's than the standard JB Weld. But the good thing about an epoxy patch is that you do not have to remove the head.
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Re: Cylinder head cracked

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:20 am

The top of the head is not a stress area, the coolant should not have pressure, and the maximum temp unless you let it run low on water should be 200degrees F, so JB Weld can handle it, but you need to use a handheld grinder to V the crack a little just like it is being welded and let it set overnight before putting in use. The regular JB Weld is stronger than the quick weld though it takes longer to set up. I know of one cub (Scrivet's) that has been running for several years with a crack running from the water outlet and a ways across the head with a JB Weld repair on it.
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Re: Cylinder head cracked

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:28 am

Freeze cracks are common here. Have several PO brazed ones, that work fine.
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