Broken bolt/stud

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Bus Driver
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Broken bolt/stud

Postby Bus Driver » Sat Nov 21, 2015 8:06 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_KmLF6PTD0

This video illustrates part of the technique I have used for 60 years. I think a 6011 electrode is far better for this than a 7018 but use what you have. MIG is OK. Lightly hammer the bolt form the top while while it is cooling and use penetrant if you wish.
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby john2189 » Sat Nov 21, 2015 10:58 pm

The contractor I use at the mine to get broken studs /bolts out of the equipment does this but when the red glow of the nut goes away, he pours water on it to cool it fast so the stud will shrink and that helps break the bond too
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Sun Nov 22, 2015 9:13 am

Bus Driver wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_KmLF6PTD0

This video illustrates part of the technique I have used for 60 years. I think a 6011 electrode is far better for this than a 7018 but use what you have. MIG is OK. Lightly hammer the bolt form the top while while it is cooling and use penetrant if you wish.


7018 is a higher tensile strength rod, that's why it is recommended.
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby Bus Driver » Sun Nov 22, 2015 9:24 am

Agreed that the 7018 is stronger alloy. But it has much more and thicker slag which in this use may interfere with the weld to the bolt or stud. Must confess that I have not, for the reason stated, ever tried the 7018 for this purpose. Plus my stock of 7018 is larger sizes.
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby Bus Driver » Mon Nov 23, 2015 7:22 am

The 6011 strikes an arc much easier than does the 7018. For bolts or studs broken flush with the surface, starting the arc in the hole of a nut without moving the nut can be tricky, especially as age makes the hands less steady.
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby pickerandsinger » Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:30 am

7018 is a stronger bond….another trick is to take a carbon rod ( if you have a dc welder) turn it up and hit the bolt momentarily…It will turn it cherry red and when it cools it contracts and makes removal easier (before it is broken) and less of a chance of warping surrounding areas….( My welding instructor showed me that one, but it naturally only works with DC carbon rod and the welder was a 280 miller, so high amp was available)….6010 and 6011 are easier to weld with as is MIG….However not as sturdy... :D …..Dave…(.I guess you got nothing to lose with the 6011 or MIG, if it breaks just redo it and use 7018 if available….)
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Nov 23, 2015 11:07 am

I have used this system a couple times with good results. If you have a short piece of the stub, a washer placed over it before welding the nut sometimes helps. I am not an expert welder by any means, but while a 7018 rod makes a stronger weld, I think a 6011 is a deeper penetrating rod, and is better when the metal is not clean, such as rust, etc. I believe some of our more experienced welders can straighten me out if I am incorrect.
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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby Bill Hudson » Mon Nov 23, 2015 1:28 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:... I think a 6011 is a deeper penetrating rod, and is better when the metal is not clean, such as rust, etc. ...


Which is exactly why I started my Vo-Ag student on 6011 as I taught them to weld. Often times getting the area to weld clean is difficult on farm equipment and 6011 is much more forgiving, and a better rod in that environment.

After getting the students proficient, I would tell them that 6011 in one of the more difficult rods to run. After they settled down a bit, I told them the reason they learned on 6011 is that now they can run almost any rod with no difficulty. The reverse is not always true.

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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Nov 23, 2015 2:35 pm

I've used the technique to extract dozens of broken, stuck, and rusted bolts out of various Cub projects. Always 6011 rod because of the aforementioned rust. In many places it's not possible to get in there and get down to clean metal, and sometimes getting down to clean metal would leave nothing to weld to.

If you have a TiG welder, you can go a step further and often extract a bolt that has broken off flush with, or even BELOW the surface.

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Re: Broken bolt/stud

Postby pickerandsinger » Mon Nov 23, 2015 3:46 pm

Very true that 6011 is a better rod for poor conditions concerning rust etc….. :D No argument here... :lol:
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