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serious electrical help!
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serious electrical help!
HI! folks!, boy did i mess up, my "53 cub has been having charging prob. since i got it. supposedly, it was all re-done except the elec. system. i have been reading on the forums about making sure the grounds are all clean, so i tried to clean all i could reach and when i took off my voltage regulator and cleaned it, i put it back on , then hooked up the batt. and smoke started rolling out from the hood! i knew the terminals were hooked up right, but (stupid rookie mistake) the original wiring was not good on the back of the volt. reg. and it shorted out on a bolt behind it! my regulator is fried, and also parts of my wiring harness is too, also my amp guage is dead, but it still rolls over fine! (no fire obviously) i really need it to plow my driveway this winter so i didn't want to put a new harness on it so soon but i guess when you do something stupid, you pay the price , right? what also has me concerned is, my light switch only moves two "clicks to the right from extreme left" but the sticker on it says " l-h-d-b." i don't know if any of the wiring was done prior to my buying it, but my main concern is buying the right wiring harness to get it up to snuff for this winter! and, i know it probably won't be cheap, but i want it correct, so any help in the wiring dept. would be great!. thanks! this is a great site! love it! ...............dumb in pa!
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Re: serious electrical help!
the sticker for the lights is meant for an early charging system with a cut out relay, some one put the wrong one on it, you can make a harness your self or buy a premade one, brillman sells nice stuff, wiring diagrams are in the owners manual, attached is a chart which should help you trouble shoot
Tim
Tim
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Re: serious electrical help!
My opinion. I would install a single wire 12 volt alternator, brackets, and a ballast resistor. You would need electrical wire and terminal ends. Perhaps a new amp gauge and light bulbs. Also a 12 volt battery.
Total cost of the conversion will be approximately the same as a new regulator and wiring harness. Might be less expensive if you have to repair the generator.
Total cost of the conversion will be approximately the same as a new regulator and wiring harness. Might be less expensive if you have to repair the generator.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 5+ Years
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Re: serious electrical help!
HEY THANKS! for the quick replies! but i should have mentioned that i'd really like to keep everything original 6v pos. grnd. any testing tips would be great! but at this point i'm gonna have to get a wiring harness anyway, but being an electrical idiot, this is gonna be an experience i'm NOT looking forward to! plus it's going to be an expensive (learning) mistake!
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Re: serious electrical help!
Testing tips are in the chart that Tim posted.
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Re: serious electrical help!
unfortunately, the fried out wiring is gonna keep me from trying the things on the diagram. i guess what i'm getting at ultimately, is, i need to get the correct wiring harness, voltage reg., and most likely amp meter and correct light switch for the cub. it has an 8 volt battery in it that the previous owner put in it, and also, no headlights were in it when i got it, but the hook ups were there as well as the rear light. but half wasn't hooked up so i'm at a loss cause some were taped off in the old harness or cut off. so as you see, not knowing anything about elec. wiring on this , i'm sorry to say "screwed". if you know what i mean. sorry to be a pain but, not knowing this stuff makes me dumb and ("in the dark") so to speak!
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Re: serious electrical help!
First you need to loose the 8 volt battery, not compatible with either 6 or 12 volt systems. Just a patch for problems PO didn't fix. BTDT!
"I'd rather be a mechanic in the shop"- Henry Ford
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
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Re: serious electrical help!
To get yourself up and running, all you need to do is run a "hot" wire from the battery to the coil, and disconnect the small wire from the lug on the starter switch.
You can keep the battery charged between plowings using a battery maintainer. However, you will have to swap for a 6V or 12V battery. The maintainer won't work on an 8V battery, and neither will most normal battery chargers.
You can keep the battery charged between plowings using a battery maintainer. However, you will have to swap for a 6V or 12V battery. The maintainer won't work on an 8V battery, and neither will most normal battery chargers.
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Re: serious electrical help!
Typical installation of an 8 volt battery is a patch for a dragging starter.danovercash wrote:First you need to loose the 8 volt battery, not compatible with either 6 or 12 volt systems. Just a patch for problems PO didn't fix. BTDT!
Price all of the parts required to return to the original 6 volt system. Then price the parts for a 12 volt conversion. Might as well add in the cost for repairing the starter to both estimates.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: serious electrical help!
OK, what you want to do with your tractor (6 vs. 12) is your choice. You need to gather all the information you can. Back to your original question, I think your serial number is above 165153 so the harness should have the ground wires, often called the 8 cable harness. It is part 363 507 R91. I think it is still available from CaseIH. Or you can get it from one of the aftermarket/restoration sources. Some of those sources will include the tail light harness (2 wires, 363 508 R91) and the short ones.
You have the correct light switch. Some of your other pieces are probably good, maybe even the voltage regulator. Some testing, which I will not try to go through in this post, should tell you how much needs to be replaced.
Your wiring should connect like this (plus the ground wires).
Meanwhile, if you need to keep the tractor online for pushing snow, you can get by without fixing everything at once. If your 8-volt battery is still good, charge it by leaving a 6-volt charger (6/12 set to 6) on it. Use an old-school 6 or 10 amp charger. An electronic charger/maintainer will cut out before the 8-volt is completely charged. The old style will continue to dribble a little charge into it and eventually get close to a full charge. You need one wire from the starter switch to the ignition switch and one from the ignition switch to the coil. Disconnect everything from the generator and regulator. A charged battery will run the tractor for a reasonable time. Just put the charger back on after each use.
Whatever else you do, you need to get the battery cables, starter and starter switch in shape.
You have the correct light switch. Some of your other pieces are probably good, maybe even the voltage regulator. Some testing, which I will not try to go through in this post, should tell you how much needs to be replaced.
Your wiring should connect like this (plus the ground wires).
Meanwhile, if you need to keep the tractor online for pushing snow, you can get by without fixing everything at once. If your 8-volt battery is still good, charge it by leaving a 6-volt charger (6/12 set to 6) on it. Use an old-school 6 or 10 amp charger. An electronic charger/maintainer will cut out before the 8-volt is completely charged. The old style will continue to dribble a little charge into it and eventually get close to a full charge. You need one wire from the starter switch to the ignition switch and one from the ignition switch to the coil. Disconnect everything from the generator and regulator. A charged battery will run the tractor for a reasonable time. Just put the charger back on after each use.
Whatever else you do, you need to get the battery cables, starter and starter switch in shape.
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Re: serious electrical help!
My 6V positive gnd Cub was similar to your when I got it. It had a 12V battery and a hot wire through the switch to the coil. I re-worked it starting at the generator. It had no output. Took it apart and cleaned the gunk away. The brushes were ok. Put it together and made the connection from regulator to the meter to the battery. Then there was voltage into the regulator but not out. The regulator has two coil "stacks" one of them has windings from the battery and windings from the generator. Those work against each other. If the battery voltage is strong enough it opens the relay preventing charge/discharge. If it is weak the regulator voltage causes the relay to close and the battery charges. there are adjustment you can do on the relay. For a experiment you can take the cover off the regulator and hold the contacts down while running and the meter should show charge. Once that works you run a wire from the "Load" term of the regulator through the light switch to the lights. Use the right size wire per the diagrams. Enjoy!
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