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Rear Light Repair
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- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Rear Light Repair
Bought a milk crate full of Guide lights at the big Cub auction in Des Moines earlier this month. Before the auction, I spied two rear combo lights in the crate; one with the top bullet light and the other with an internal jewel light. By the time the auction rolled around and I bought the crate, somehow the rear combo light had jumped out of the crate and landed in some other pile, which I didn't get to take home. Hey, it happens.
Got out the internal jewel light to see what was going on with it. It was dirty. Some PO had relegated it to barn life because the knob switch didn't turn and perhaps the lens was broken. This came without a lens and the rim was dented. Otherwise, it was mostly intact.
Disassembly begins by taking the rim off and inspecting the interior. Most of the wiring here was fine, although I had to use a Dremel to cut off the 8-32 screw connecting the main power supply.
Next was repairing the rim. I had made a walnut disc some years back that is the same size as the rim. Inserted the disc and using a hammer, I tapped the sheetmetal back to shape, tightening the clamping screw to take up the slack as I went. It's not perfect, but better than it was.
The set screw was removed from the knob (don't drop it), the knob removes, then the locking nut from the shaft collar. The whole assembly drops out the bottom through the interior of the light.
Upon closer inspection, the switch appears to be in good external shape, but as I said before, the knob shaft is corroded and stuck inside the collar preventing it from rotating.
By carefully bending the 3 prongs on the back of the switch, the back is removed revealing the interior.
The terminal labeled "B" is where the main power is connected and "R" and "L" are separate wires to each lamp. As you can see, there is an upper disc (connected to the shaft) and a lower disc having 4 connectors. When the switch is functioning properly, the shaft rotates the upper disc that allows a copper connector to land on only 2 of the 4 connectors on the lower disc (either B & L, or B & R), allowing power to go to either the main lamp or the jewel lamp. The copper connector has 2 tabs that go into the upper disc keeping it in place. Once I cleaned everything, I still had the problem of getting the shaft separated from the upper disc housing (aluminum) and collar (brass). Having no good way to hold this while trying to get pressure on the end of the shaft to drive it through, I replaced it back in the housing with the locking nut and gently tapped on the end of the shaft. I'll also say that I had used a good quantity of 50/50 acetone and ATM fluid and some Seafoam penetrant for a few days prior to this.
My patience was rewarded with success. Knob switch fully disassembled.
Once cleaned with a combination of wire brushes, fine sandpaper, alcohol and blown dry with compressed air, the switch is reassembled and the 3 prongs gently bent into place. The light is reassembled. I wasn't happy with the condition of the lens reflector, so I used some aluminum foil, sprayed the back with adhesive, and stuck it on. Yeah, it looks cheap. Not pretty, but more reflective than before.
NAPA sells jewel bulbs (LMP-51, 6V), so I fitted it up with an extra lens (on hand) and a rubber gasket (made from a windshield wiper blade) and it all works as designed.
Other than the cost of light bulb, I really didn't buy anything, just disassembly and cleaning. Nice way to spend a few evenings during winter. Hope this encourages you to give it a try.
Got out the internal jewel light to see what was going on with it. It was dirty. Some PO had relegated it to barn life because the knob switch didn't turn and perhaps the lens was broken. This came without a lens and the rim was dented. Otherwise, it was mostly intact.
Disassembly begins by taking the rim off and inspecting the interior. Most of the wiring here was fine, although I had to use a Dremel to cut off the 8-32 screw connecting the main power supply.
Next was repairing the rim. I had made a walnut disc some years back that is the same size as the rim. Inserted the disc and using a hammer, I tapped the sheetmetal back to shape, tightening the clamping screw to take up the slack as I went. It's not perfect, but better than it was.
The set screw was removed from the knob (don't drop it), the knob removes, then the locking nut from the shaft collar. The whole assembly drops out the bottom through the interior of the light.
Upon closer inspection, the switch appears to be in good external shape, but as I said before, the knob shaft is corroded and stuck inside the collar preventing it from rotating.
By carefully bending the 3 prongs on the back of the switch, the back is removed revealing the interior.
The terminal labeled "B" is where the main power is connected and "R" and "L" are separate wires to each lamp. As you can see, there is an upper disc (connected to the shaft) and a lower disc having 4 connectors. When the switch is functioning properly, the shaft rotates the upper disc that allows a copper connector to land on only 2 of the 4 connectors on the lower disc (either B & L, or B & R), allowing power to go to either the main lamp or the jewel lamp. The copper connector has 2 tabs that go into the upper disc keeping it in place. Once I cleaned everything, I still had the problem of getting the shaft separated from the upper disc housing (aluminum) and collar (brass). Having no good way to hold this while trying to get pressure on the end of the shaft to drive it through, I replaced it back in the housing with the locking nut and gently tapped on the end of the shaft. I'll also say that I had used a good quantity of 50/50 acetone and ATM fluid and some Seafoam penetrant for a few days prior to this.
My patience was rewarded with success. Knob switch fully disassembled.
Once cleaned with a combination of wire brushes, fine sandpaper, alcohol and blown dry with compressed air, the switch is reassembled and the 3 prongs gently bent into place. The light is reassembled. I wasn't happy with the condition of the lens reflector, so I used some aluminum foil, sprayed the back with adhesive, and stuck it on. Yeah, it looks cheap. Not pretty, but more reflective than before.
NAPA sells jewel bulbs (LMP-51, 6V), so I fitted it up with an extra lens (on hand) and a rubber gasket (made from a windshield wiper blade) and it all works as designed.
Other than the cost of light bulb, I really didn't buy anything, just disassembly and cleaning. Nice way to spend a few evenings during winter. Hope this encourages you to give it a try.
- Don McCombs
- Team Cub Mentor
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Good job and great tutorial.
- Barnyard
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Thanks for sharing. I have copied and locked this in the How To forum for future reference.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.
- ricky racer
- 10+ Years
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Re: Rear Light Repair
WOW!! Great job Stanton!!
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Great Job!! Thanks for the lesson.
It's a good feeling to repair/bring back to life this old equipment! A Dremel is a "must have" tool.
Bruce.
It's a good feeling to repair/bring back to life this old equipment! A Dremel is a "must have" tool.
Bruce.
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Always good to see a 'how to'.
David
1956 Lister D stationary engine
1957 French Cub
2012 Land Rover Defender 110 double cab pick up
Every day is a school day
"Choose a job you love and you will never have to work a day in your life" Confucius
1956 Lister D stationary engine
1957 French Cub
2012 Land Rover Defender 110 double cab pick up
Every day is a school day
"Choose a job you love and you will never have to work a day in your life" Confucius
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Nice job! Just thought that I would mention that if you know anybody in the HVAC business, they use a Chrome tape with adhesive on it to seal their ductwork. I used that tape on a Coleman lantern for night fishing. It take the heat very well Just a thought!
-
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Re: Rear Light Repair
If the plating on the reflector is okay,a metal polish paste like Autosol quickly brings it to a shine (toothpaste might work as well,though not as effectively). Either spin the reflector in a lathe or power drill, or get one of those polishing balls for car waxes.
-
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Stanton wrote:I had made a walnut disc some years back that is the same size as the rim
WOW! , you know someone's good when they use walnut for templates... nice job.
Tim
- randallc
- Cub Pro
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Re: Rear Light Repair
You did it again! Nice!!
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Stanton, It's always intresting to read your posts on repairs. Gives the rest of us some food for thought. Thanks for the How To! Catch you later, Frank
Frank
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Re: Rear Light Repair
If it can stand the heat, how about chrome Mylar instead of foil. Just a thought. Very nice job on the light. I love seeing things fixed that aren't supposed to be able to be fixed.
"I'd rather be a mechanic in the shop"- Henry Ford
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
- schmibm
- 10+ Years
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Re: Rear Light Repair
Nice job!! I liked the idea of the walnut ring tool. I must make one of these now.
For the reflector, I typically just use chrome spray paint. It goes on perfectly and when dry, is as reflective as aluminum foil. Heat doesn't bother it. The benefit is that it is quick to go on.
BTW. I was working on updating these to LEDs. I ordered the 6V red LED bulbs and 6V white LED bulbs and figured this would be perfect and not heat up the red plastic lens and would probably be brighter. After I got them, I learned quickly about positive ground and that LEDs are designed for negative ground. So the bulbs won't light without modification. So I went back with the filament bulbs for now.....
For the reflector, I typically just use chrome spray paint. It goes on perfectly and when dry, is as reflective as aluminum foil. Heat doesn't bother it. The benefit is that it is quick to go on.
BTW. I was working on updating these to LEDs. I ordered the 6V red LED bulbs and 6V white LED bulbs and figured this would be perfect and not heat up the red plastic lens and would probably be brighter. After I got them, I learned quickly about positive ground and that LEDs are designed for negative ground. So the bulbs won't light without modification. So I went back with the filament bulbs for now.....
1949 Project Cub
1955 Cub Lo-Boy "Jack"
1957 Cub Lo-Boy "Mac"
1957 Cub with 5' Woods Belly Mower "James"
24 other Farmalls A thru SMTA.
1955 Cub Lo-Boy "Jack"
1957 Cub Lo-Boy "Mac"
1957 Cub with 5' Woods Belly Mower "James"
24 other Farmalls A thru SMTA.
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Rear Light Repair
snoman7c wrote:Nice job! Just thought that I would mention that if you know anybody in the HVAC business, they use a Chrome tape with adhesive on it to seal their ductwork. I used that tape on a Coleman lantern for night fishing. It take the heat very well Just a thought!
Was in Home Depot last week (after reading your comment) and found they sell rolls of highly reflective HVAC tape. That would be worth a try.
Puffie40 wrote:If the plating on the reflector is okay,a metal polish paste like Autosol quickly brings it to a shine (toothpaste might work as well,though not as effectively). Either spin the reflector in a lathe or power drill, or get one of those polishing balls for car waxes.
Also try Bon-Ami or similar, and/or silver polish. Had these on hand, so that's what I used. Unfortunately, some reflectors chrome are too far gone, so it's a replacement or applying something in its place (paint or foil).
[quote="schmibm"]For the reflector, I typically just use chrome spray paint. It goes on perfectly and when dry, is as reflective as aluminum foil. Heat doesn't bother it. The benefit is that it is quick to go on.quote]
Have used a can of "aluminum" spray paint in the past, but wasn't impressed. Agreed, it was more reflective than before, but not that highly polished chrome-like surface I was hoping. There are just too few metallic particles in the spray paint to get that high reflective surface. But thanks for suggesting it.