jb weld?

[jdeere86]

drained gas and popped hood off of the cub - got the sediment bowl off and will have inspect further however seems like pin holes or at best just badly corroded and pitted around the fitting ,,,

should I use some jb weld on this?? be honest I've never used the stuff

[schmibm]

Your best bet is tank sealer on the inside. RedKote available at most O'Rilleys works well and is readily available. Clean your tank out well if not too rusty, you can likely just get by with E-85 sloshed around in the tank and let it dry well. If it is rusty inside, you will need to use an acid first.

[Eugene]

I would sand down the area to bare metal and see exactly what I have. Also check the inside of the tank.

If the area around the fuel outlet is still solid I would just paint it. If there are holes in the area, depending on how insignificant, I would use a steal epoxy to smooth up and seal the area. Then use a gas tank sealer, inside the tank, such as RedKote.

JB Weld is a brand name, the company makes a number of different epoxies. There are quite a number available at your hardware store or auto parts store. The type of epoxy to use depends on the intended usage, materials to be bonded, strength, and work/hardening time.

Purchase the smallest quantity available for your usage. You will have some left over. Follow the directions on the package.

If this is your first time using epoxy, select one with a long curing/work time.

Since it's winter, place the hood/gas tank in a warm area for several hours before applying the epoxy and leave in the warmth for at least the minimum curing time.

[cub 3]

Take it to a radiator shop they will clean it an solder it up no problem that,would be the best fix
Keep on cubin

[Eugene]

Take it to a radiator shop they will clean it an solder it up no problem that,would be the best fix.

Radiator shop can also coat the inside of the tank.

You can do it yourself. Depending on what your tank needs, you should be able to repair any minor pin holes and seal the inside of the tank for somewhere around $70-. This should be considerably less than what the radiator shop will charge.

Your hands on time doing it yourself may be an hour or two. Wait time, depending on processes used, can be considerably longer. Example, RedKote after being installed in the tank may take 24 hours, to 3 days to dry in a warm place. If you rinse out the tank, another day or two drying in a warm place before installing the sealer. You can speed up the drying time to an hour or two by using a shop vac on exhaust, blowing warm air into the tank.

If you decide to seal the inside of the tank yourself, search this site. Several topics discussing the process or post back asking for tips.

[ScottyD'sdad]

If you use a sealer, follow the label instructions, precisely. You don't want the sealer to start flaking off, after a short time. Not fun to remove it.
Ed

[CraigKennedy]

I would use jb weld steel stick, comes in a roll and alot better than regular jb weld, also permatex used to make a product alot similar to the steel stick i was talking about, but it was for fuel tanks, hope this helps!

[jdeere86]

got some stuff called quick steel I believe made by some different company - came in a stick. 5 min set up time and I believe an hour for full cure. will check on it this morning. was easy to work with

[Bus Driver]

As Eugene stated, the longest curing time for epoxy is the better one to use. Back in the late 1960s I repaired a number of leaking gas tanks by hand sanding the outside (little chance of sparks) to reveal all the holes, cleaned the area with lacquer thinner, applied a thin layer of the epoxy, laid on a piece of brown paper from a grocery bag, embedded the paper until the epoxy wetted it through and applied another thin layer of epoxy on the outside of the paper.
Never failed to hold. But one tank developed a new leak at another place few years later. Rusted through from the inside.
A word of caution. The epoxy used was clear Devcon, one of the most expensive suppliers and the gasoline of that day did not contain ethanol. Other epoxies and the ethanol may be game changers as far as durability is concerned. If this outer sealing will withstand the preparation for sealing the interior, then doing the interior as an added step would be great.
For the outside after this process, hand sanding followed by Bondo to smooth the exterior will hide the repair.

[Gerry Powell]

To never have a leak here again, braze it.

[Eugene]

To never have a leak here again, braze it.

If you have rust holes in the fuel tank, there is more rusty areas inside.

Normally patching or brazing just takes care of the currently obvious leaks. If you don't take care of the other rusty areas inside the tank, it will leak again when other areas rust through.

Patch the holes from outside the tank then seal the inside.

[BigBill]

I use a stuff called liquid steel for repairing gas tanks. I just wire brush the area and apply the liquid steel puddy

[jsfarmall]

Had bad experience with tank sealer. Braze or re weld yourself or take to radiator shop. They can do it.

[Willy]

I had an old car once that had some pinholes in the tank. Something that my Dad (old old school mechanic) suggested as a temporary fix was to rub a bar of soap into the holes. I did and it stopped. I never did fix the thing but it never started leaking again either.