Woods C1 mounting.

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LRiddle
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1951 Farmall Cub - Chesty

Woods 59 belly mower

54A blade

1956 Gravely L

Dozer blade

Tiller

Rotary Plow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Tallmadge, OH

Re: Woods C1 mounting.

Postby LRiddle » Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:44 pm

Well, I do need a drawbar anyways so I guess I'll have to get one sooner than I planned, the grass is starting to grow. Thanks for the tips. You guys are lifesavers.
Luke Riddle
Tallmadge, Ohio
1951 Cub - Chesty



"You can't believe everything you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln


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LRiddle
Cub Star!!
Cub Star!!
Posts: 396
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2016 11:57 am
Zip Code: 44278
Tractors Owned: .
1951 Farmall Cub - Chesty

Woods 59 belly mower

54A blade

1956 Gravely L

Dozer blade

Tiller

Rotary Plow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Tallmadge, OH

Re: Woods C1 mounting.

Postby LRiddle » Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:56 pm

So I've been working on setting my mower up correctly and I'm beginning to see why it was done so goofy. It doesn't have a drawbar for starters, but that's no biggie. The real problem lies in the final drives. One side has 2 busted bolts in it. Snapped off flush of course. The other has one of the bolt holes broken off. So my question is on the bars that come straight down (attachment arms) and pin to the guide bars coming off the mower, would it be fine running 2 bolts in each attachment arm or does it really need the three bolts the manual calls for? One of the snapped bolts is where the drawbar brackets mount, so at least one has to come out, but I'm hoping I'll do ok leaving the other ones as they are. Below are pictures of my current set-up.

Right side
http://imgur.com/pF3Wval

Left side
http://imgur.com/pF3Wval
Luke Riddle
Tallmadge, Ohio
1951 Cub - Chesty



"You can't believe everything you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln


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Urbish
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1948 Farmall Cub
1947 Farmall H
1946 Farmall B
1953 Willys CJ3B
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Location: Manchester, MI

Re: Woods C1 mounting.

Postby Urbish » Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:18 am

Two bolts will provide enough support for careful operation. But if you snag something hard with the mower deck (especially at high speed), you run the risk of shearing the bolts or breaking the bosses on the final drives. Ensure you're using the right length bolts. Too long and they'll bottom out and punch through the final drive case. Too short and they'll be too easily ripped out.

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Dale Finch
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Re: Woods C1 mounting.

Postby Dale Finch » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:21 am

Did you double check that it IS definitely a bolt broken off?? Some of the holes had corks in them from the factory, and look rather like a broken bolt, especially after being painted and covered with dirt for years. Did you poke the hole with an ice pick?

Also, I'm not sure about the STRENGTH of the repair, but there is an epoxy-type product from automotive stores, that you can repair a broken/wallered out hole. It is a kit (not JB Weld) with a tube of "release" gel for a bolt during the repair. Probably not describing this well, but you can ask about it at an Auto Zone-type store, and maybe another forum person can describe it better.

Good luck!


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