Hi all - as many of you know, I've spent a lot of hours with my arms inside a blasting cabinet and I've some rust appear harder to remove than others - but the effort required on the used seat pan I purchased sets a new bar for difficult rust removal. Posting here to understand the science behind rust.
The rust came off, but very slowly and in certain places there were areas of black that will not come off down to bare metal. The seat is well pitted with some perforations. Anyone know why some rust seems harder than others? And what is the mysterious blackness that won't budge?
There must be a metallurgical explanation.
Best to all - Ken
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Very Hard Rust
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- PVF1799
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Very Hard Rust
Ken
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
1930 Farmall Restoration Project
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
1930 Farmall Restoration Project
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Very Hard Rust
I wonder if it may have had some kind of rust converter used on it at one time?
If you are not part of the solution,
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you are part of the problem!!!
- bob in CT
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Re: Very Hard Rust
There are two different types of rust and one of them has a couple of different crystalline structures.
- Glen
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Re: Very Hard Rust
Hi Ken,
Haven't seen you on here lately. Hope you are good.
Haven't seen you on here lately. Hope you are good.
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Re: Very Hard Rust
Ken, I ran into the same problem last week. A gentleman dropped off four has tanks from four different tractors for me to sandblast and prime. Three were completed very quickly, but one had the type of rust you are talking about. My large compressor is a screw type running a 60 hp Cat diesel engine. I'm not sure what causes this type of rust, dut have seen it many times sandblasting parts for people. I dont charge a large fee to blast and prime. But what little I made on the first three tanks I lost on that last one trying to get it clean.
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Re: Very Hard Rust
Ken, I've run into some pretty tough rust, too. Some of it seems to refuse to sandblast off. Perhaps an E-tank would weaken it, enough for the abrasive to cut through it.
Ed
Ed
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Re: Very Hard Rust
As a general rule, the longer the rust is on the metal, the stronger it's crystal structure. The heating cycles of the sun and seasons will also have an effect in strengthening the crystal as well.
- PVF1799
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1475
- Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:46 pm
- Zip Code: 12009
- eBay ID: kepara
- Tractors Owned: 1929 Farmall Regular #T111250 (Original Owner)
1942 Farmall M #55654
1948 Farmall Cub #21005
1955 Farmall Cub #190769
1961 Cub Cadet #16509
1975 Cub Cadet 1250H
197x IH 990 Haybine
1994 JD 5320 Diesel
Attachments: Woods 42F Fast Hitch, L38 Disc Fast Hitch, F11 Plow Fast Hitch, Land Plow, Snow Plow, Grader Blade, Planter w/Fertilizer, Cultivators, Hilling Disks, Sickle Bar Mower(2), IH 7' Sickle Bar Mower, Flail Mower and 5' International Belly Mower. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Altamont, NY
- Contact:
Re: Very Hard Rust
Glad to learn I was not just imagining it. This was by far the worst piece I've ever tried to restore. It's finally clean, now I can get at it with body filler to fix the pitting and holes. Will post some pix in the Farmall M restoration thread.
Ken
Ken
Ken
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
1930 Farmall Restoration Project
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
1930 Farmall Restoration Project
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex