No more rotation on mag

[inairam]

My 49 with a mag is having a problem with timing. The mag is rotated as far away from the block as the slot allows and it does not trip until just after TDC compression on 1. I purchased a rebuildt mag and installed it last year. I had the same issue last year but a friend who works on motorcycles and know Mags and got it to run. When I started it up this spring it was down on power. I replaced the plugs and re timed the mag but it would not trip on tdc. The cub starts right up. Any suggestion? Also I have watched that youtube video many times on static timing a cub mag.

[Steve Butram]

if you have the mag rotated out that far. The drive gear must be off 1 tooth on on the idler gear.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

if you have the mag rotated out that far. The drive gear must be off 1 tooth on on the idler gear.

or the idler gear is off 1 tooth at the cam. Simplest thing to do is unbolt governor and move forward enough to get it engaged on the next tooth. Or you could get a distributor and forget about that part.

[Steve Butram]

Another thought is the mag rotor may be off 1 tooth. You may need to time the rotor in the mag.

[inairam]

I do not want to pull the front off to mess with the front idelier. Can you take off the governor without pulling the radiator? I guess the mag is easier to try first?

[mva1958]

Check this thread for more on aligning the timing marks on your mag rotor:

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=57889

[Bill V in Md]

I do not want to pull the front off to mess with the front idelier. Can you take off the governor without pulling the radiator? I guess the mag is easier to try first?

Yes, you can remove the governor without removing radiator.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Another thought is the mag rotor may be off 1 tooth. You may need to time the rotor in the mag.

That would make the rotor point at the wrong place on the cap, but not keep it from tripping at the right time.

[inairam]

ok I pulled the mag and the rotor was properly aligned. I pulled the governor. It looks as if the it may never have been off. The spring lever was frozen and I could not get it off. I picked up a governor on ebay. While waiting I replaced the spark plug wires and the spring. I got it together and timed checked with a timing light. The governor rod to the carb was also adjusted per the manual The tractor starts and runs and it is much better than before but at full throttle the governor keeps the carb from going full throttle. You can manually push the rod and pick up quit a few RPM to get the correct sound for the ear tach to say it is at full throttle. I kept lengthening the governor rod and ran out of adjustment Is there an adjustment with the governor I missed?

[staninlowerAL]

The spring lever was frozen and I could not get it off.

Are you referring to part #11? If so, it must move freely on the shaft part #12 or the rpm will not build to max. Use your favorite penetrant and work it with the engine off, until it moves freely on the shaft.

[inairam]

On the replacement governor the lever moves freely and the spring was replaced with a new one from TM. It is definitely to governor adjusting and pushing back at speed. With the engine off moving the throttle lever forward and back makes the carb go full range.

[Jim Becker]

. . . The governor rod to the carb was also adjusted per the manual . . . I kept lengthening the governor rod and ran out of adjustment Is there an adjustment with the governor I missed?

If the second adjustment is the same rod as the first, go back and adjust it by the book. If your spring lever is working right and you can't get full speed, you have 2 adjustments on the governor body. One is the bumper spring adjustable from the front (17 above) and the speed adjustment (13 above).

You speed it up by backing the speed adjustment out. Having the bumper spring in too far can also limit top speed.

[Rick Spivey]

ok I pulled the mag and the rotor was properly aligned. I pulled the governor. It looks as if the it may never have been off. The spring lever was frozen and I could not get it off. I picked up a governor on ebay. While waiting I replaced the spark plug wires and the spring. I got it together and timed checked with a timing light. The governor rod to the carb was also adjusted per the manual The tractor starts and runs and it is much better than before but at full throttle the governor keeps the carb from going full throttle. You can manually push the rod and pick up quit a few RPM to get the correct sound for the ear tach to say it is at full throttle. I kept lengthening the governor rod and ran out of adjustment Is there an adjustment with the governor I missed?

I'm just going to remind you that full throttle is 1800 rpm. Be sure the ear is tuned for that speed, and not 3600 like modern small engines.