Oil Pressure Indications

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Sailor
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Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Sailor » Wed Jul 13, 2016 12:51 pm

I started my Cub yesterday, after it's 22 months restoration. It fired right up. Oil pressure came up to just off the Red area until the oil got warmed and then the needle dropped down to the Zero position. Prior to the engine re-build, the indications were pretty much the same.... some pressure when cold, none when hot, with occasional almost mid-range indication which would stay for a couple of minutes and then drop off to zero.

I opened up the oil filter casing and saw were oil had been circulating, indications were:
1. Puddle of oil in the bottom, up to the drain point
2. Filter was wet, top to bottom
3. Gasket and rim were wet.

The engine was run for more than an hour while I set the carburetor and adjusted the governor with no ill affects. Can I assume that my problem lies with the oil gauge? If so, is there any way to check this gauge off the tractor?

Thanks,
Larry
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Eugene » Wed Jul 13, 2016 1:10 pm

Air compressor with regulator set to 30 psi. Oil pressure gauge should max out at 35 to 40 psi.

Remove the gauge. Test the gauge with compressed air.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Sailor
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Sailor » Wed Jul 13, 2016 1:39 pm

Thanks Eugene, I'm off to the shop now. :D
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Sailor
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Sailor » Wed Jul 13, 2016 1:59 pm

I pulled the gauge and tested like you said.... the needle deflected to 3/4 range.

What else could it be?
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Puffie40 » Wed Jul 13, 2016 2:48 pm

With your rebuild, how much attention did you give the oil pump?

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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Eugene » Wed Jul 13, 2016 3:17 pm

Lot of potential problem areas.

1) Plugs installed in oil galleries. One under valve cover and the difficult one to replace under the cam drive gear. The plug under the valve cover, easy check.

2) Main and rod bearing clearance.

3) Oil pressure relief valve stuck partially open. Easy check.

4) Since oil pump is working, not usually the problem.
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Glen » Wed Jul 13, 2016 6:54 pm

Hi Larry,

You could look and see if there is an oil pressure regulator valve and spring spring in the engine.
It is above the lower coolant hose on the engine. Use a big socket to remove the cap there.
Here is a pic from the cub parts book showing the parts that should be in the hole. The little valve has to be free moving in the hole, and the spring has to be a certain strength. They are numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the right side of the page. :)

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-19.jpg
Last edited by Glen on Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Clark Thompson » Thu Jul 14, 2016 8:55 am

another though that came to mind is if all gallery plugs are in place and the pressure relief valve is in working order then I would suspect the oil pump housing gasket is the wrong thickness. There are a few aftermarket engine gasket kits out there that provide a oil pump housing gasket that is way too thick. The gasket should not be more than .002 thick. any thicker the pump will not build proper pressure.
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby tnestell » Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:16 am

Clark Thompson wrote:another though that came to mind is if all gallery plugs are in place and the pressure relief valve is in working order then I would suspect the oil pump housing gasket is the wrong thickness. There are a few aftermarket engine gasket kits out there that provide a oil pump housing gasket that is way too thick. The gasket should not be more than .002 thick. any thicker the pump will not build proper pressure.

As I recall that gasket was a paper gasket. Recently I needed a shim for an axle of .002" to 004" and a sheet of computer paper gave me the extra .002" end play I needed.

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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Sailor » Thu Jul 14, 2016 11:41 am

Thanks for the many replies, I'll try to address them all.

I didn't perform the engine rebuild, it was done by a mechanic that was highly recommended. When I talked with him he seemed well versed on the C60 engine and what had to be done. I don't have first hand knowledge on what was done to the engine but I know that it was boiled, twice, so I'm fairly sure that it was gutted.

Oil pump gasket- I bought an engine gasket/seal kit, by Victor Reinz, from Steiner. My mechanic told me he likes to use gaskets/seals that he knew were good, so I told him if he had any doubt about my the things in my kit, then feel free to buy anything he wanted to. He used the gasket in the kit so I hope that means it would do the job. I hope that isn't the issue because splitting the tractor is that last thing I want to do.

I'll check the oil pressure valve and the plugs in the oil galleries today, I hope.

Eugene, you said that "since the oil pump is working, not usually the problem". Did you mean that the oil pump is working well enough so as to not cause problems, with the proper operation of the engine?

The rain has let up so I'll wade out to the shop and start putting together a list of gaskets for TM. :cry:

While it's frustrating to come so far and then have to start taking things apart, it's reassuring to know that I've got support from guys like you. I'll post my findings.
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby indy61 » Thu Jul 14, 2016 2:55 pm

I would want to be positive it's not a gauge issue, before going forward. You may have a wrong or faulty gauge.

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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Eugene » Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:17 pm

Sailor wrote:Eugene, you said that "since the oil pump is working, not usually the problem.
Reread the initial post. Since current oil pressure is similar, prior to the engine rebuild, thinking the rebuilder assumed that because engine came apart it should go together the same.

Check the easy stuff first. Specs for the oil pressure regulator valve are in the service manual.

Hopefully it's something simple that can be can be solved without pulling the engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Sailor
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Sailor » Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:06 pm

Eugene wrote:
Sailor wrote:Eugene, you said that "since the oil pump is working, not usually the problem.
Reread the initial post. Since current oil pressure is similar, prior to the engine rebuild, thinking the rebuilder assumed that because engine came apart it should go together the same.

Check the easy stuff first. Specs for the oil pressure regulator valve are in the service manual.

Hopefully it's something simple that can be can be solved without pulling the engine.

Will do, thanks.
1948 Cub
Cub-22 Mower
Cub-54 Leveling & Grading Blade
Cub-144 Cultivator
Cub-189 Moldboard Plow (direct-Connected, One Bottom, Two-way)
Woods 59 Mower
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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby Glen » Fri Jul 15, 2016 5:43 pm

Hi,
Here are pics at TM Tractor of the parts under the oil pressure regulator cap.
The spring has to be the one shown in the pic, a too short, or weak spring will give you less than the right oil pressure.
The valve has to be there, back in the hole, and free moving in the hole. Good if you could take it out and see if it is ok, and facing the right way, the spring goes into the hole made in the valve, so the hole faces out.
The third page below is from the IH service manual, and tells the specs of the spring and valve.
If the parts there look ok, then tell the man that rebuilt the engine that it has low oil pressure, and needs more work to find the problem.
The 4th page below shows the oil pressure specs, at the lower part of the page. It says 30-35 lbs at 1800 RPM. A 1948 Cub turned 1600 RPM max speed, I think, so it would be a little less pressure, 25 lbs maybe. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/537fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/671fp.htm

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-09.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-08.jpg

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Re: Oil Pressure Indications

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Jul 16, 2016 11:21 am

Sailor wrote:I pulled the gauge and tested like you said.... the needle deflected to 3/4 range.

What else could it be?
Also turn regulator lower, such as 10 or 15 pounds. I ran into a similar problem after a rebuild, but had just installed a new gauge. At 30 psi it read correctly, at 15 psi it read 0.

The problem you listed, if not the gauge is usually The rod and main bearings. Do you know if the crank was turned and new rod and main bearings installed?
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