Hi Matt,
I have cleaned all the connections until they were bright and shinny, then reconnected. The generator and regulator was checked by local shop that repairs/rewinds generators and stuff like that, not by a parts store.
Thanks for your input and suggestions!
Gary
Pilot Mtn. NC
This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
Ammeter not showing charge on 6 volt system
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
- Zip Code: 27041
- Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
- Zip Code: 27041
- Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Ammeter not showing charge on 6 volt system
JohnMihevic wrote:If you have a Volt-Ohm-Meter with a 10 Amp scale, you can remove one wire from the ammeter and connect the VOM in series with your ammeter. The sensitivity of the VOM should be good enough to see if you have any charging current. 2-3 amps would be enough to keep the battery charged, but not supply enough current for lights or anything else.
John M.
John, I know this is a older thread but I am still trying to get my 6 V system to charge the battery. In reviewing this thread, I saw your suggestion to connect my VOM in series with the ammeter but I don’t know how to do that. Can it be easily explained or is it a complicated process?
Thanks,
Gary
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2803
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Ammeter not showing charge on 6 volt system
For me I use a battery tester like this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SOR1852 they are at auto stores, amazon and napa ~ $30. IT tests the battery and the charging system and is good for 6 and 12 volt systems. I really use it all of the time for battery/charging issues.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
- Zip Code: 27041
- Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Ammeter not showing charge on 6 volt system
As Paul Harvey used to say "Now for the rest of the story..."
After purchasing all needed 12v conversion parts, I wanted to give the 6v system one more chance before converting it. So after spending a lot of time over the past few weeks reviewing various threads (including this one that started 5 years ago) regarding failed 6v charging systems and Goggle searches on how regulators work, I had an "epiphany". That is to say "Go backwards not forward". Instead of going "forward" with 12v conversion my research led me go "backwards" to the original 6v system using the 4 position light switch and a cut-out relay. A google search on how a voltage regulator works yielded a well explained and simple explanation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwMn-5NV5eM
Armed with this new (to me) understanding of the regulator and reading a some threads discussing cut-out relay vs regulator it occurred to me that I could use the cut-out function of the regulator and control the rate of charge with the original 4 position switch. While looking over the wiring harness I found the original wire that connected the "field terminal" on the light switch to the field terminal on the generator (always wondered why the wired was taped-off).
I found a discussion on Yesterday's Tractor how to use only use the Cutout Relay portion of a Voltage Regulator. Connect "BAT" terminal on VR to ammeter, connect "GEN" terminal on VR to generator arm "A" post; and the generator field "F" post connected to "field" terminal on the 4 position light switch. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi- ... &th=212527
Earlier I had removed the VR cover and started tractor to observe the functionality of the points and saw that the "relay" points were not closing. After making the aforementioned wiring connections, I started tractor and force closed the relay points with wooden clothespin. The ammeter showed about 10 amps charge. Tried to adjust spring tension on points and got it to where points would close at start-up but not open when tractor was shut off. At this point I remembered I had a junk generator that had a saddle-mounted cut-out relay on it. I had looked at it a few weeks ago out of curiosity to see how it looked. With nothing to lose, I used a dremel tool with wire brush and cleaned rust off the 2 terminals (one stamped "Bat") and the bottom of mounting base and bolted onto the generator. Using the attached wiring diagram, I wire up the relay and started up tractor. The relay points closed and ammeter showed about 10 amps with switch on "H" position. Checked voltage at battery and was getting 6.7 volts.
Not sure how long the old relay will last, but I learned a lot. I know a number of you are thinking "that's what I told him 5 years ago" , but I just didn't get at the time. As always, I truly appreciate all the help and guidance I get from you guys and am grateful to be member of the Farmall Family.
Take care,
Gary
After purchasing all needed 12v conversion parts, I wanted to give the 6v system one more chance before converting it. So after spending a lot of time over the past few weeks reviewing various threads (including this one that started 5 years ago) regarding failed 6v charging systems and Goggle searches on how regulators work, I had an "epiphany". That is to say "Go backwards not forward". Instead of going "forward" with 12v conversion my research led me go "backwards" to the original 6v system using the 4 position light switch and a cut-out relay. A google search on how a voltage regulator works yielded a well explained and simple explanation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwMn-5NV5eM
Armed with this new (to me) understanding of the regulator and reading a some threads discussing cut-out relay vs regulator it occurred to me that I could use the cut-out function of the regulator and control the rate of charge with the original 4 position switch. While looking over the wiring harness I found the original wire that connected the "field terminal" on the light switch to the field terminal on the generator (always wondered why the wired was taped-off).
I found a discussion on Yesterday's Tractor how to use only use the Cutout Relay portion of a Voltage Regulator. Connect "BAT" terminal on VR to ammeter, connect "GEN" terminal on VR to generator arm "A" post; and the generator field "F" post connected to "field" terminal on the 4 position light switch. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi- ... &th=212527
Earlier I had removed the VR cover and started tractor to observe the functionality of the points and saw that the "relay" points were not closing. After making the aforementioned wiring connections, I started tractor and force closed the relay points with wooden clothespin. The ammeter showed about 10 amps charge. Tried to adjust spring tension on points and got it to where points would close at start-up but not open when tractor was shut off. At this point I remembered I had a junk generator that had a saddle-mounted cut-out relay on it. I had looked at it a few weeks ago out of curiosity to see how it looked. With nothing to lose, I used a dremel tool with wire brush and cleaned rust off the 2 terminals (one stamped "Bat") and the bottom of mounting base and bolted onto the generator. Using the attached wiring diagram, I wire up the relay and started up tractor. The relay points closed and ammeter showed about 10 amps with switch on "H" position. Checked voltage at battery and was getting 6.7 volts.
Not sure how long the old relay will last, but I learned a lot. I know a number of you are thinking "that's what I told him 5 years ago" , but I just didn't get at the time. As always, I truly appreciate all the help and guidance I get from you guys and am grateful to be member of the Farmall Family.
Take care,
Gary
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17214
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: Ammeter not showing charge on 6 volt system
Clubless wrote:. . . A google search on how a voltage regulator works yielded a well explained and simple explanation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwMn-5NV5eM . . .
That is a pretty good explanation of how a voltage regulator works. However, he shouldn't be telling people to use sandpaper to clean the points. Use a file (and disconnect the BAT terminal while you are doing it!).
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: dgrapes59, ericofmaine, farmallcubkid and 26 guests