Stuck Valve

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The Riot
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Stuck Valve

Postby The Riot » Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:49 am

Well I posted last week that my 1972 Cub was running like a top after a total engine rebuild, new everything and after sitting around for about 6 weeks without starting she was running very poorly and sounded like on only 3 cylinders.
I followed your great advice and checked the spark to all cylinders and plugs and the fire was good, great spark to all 4. Next I pulled the valve cover, btw kinda touch to remove without taking the TC Hyd lines down, but I managed to get cover off. Yes, you guessed it the first valve closest to the driver seat was stuck in the up /open position. That was half bad, I managed to unstick the valve and fired her up, all good and back to purring like a kitten. However, on closer inspection I noticed what looks like rust on the valve tappet adjusting bolt and it looks like I'm seeing signs of water. That certainly explains the stuck valve.

I'm guessing that I probably have a crack in a water jacket, but don't really know where to go from here.

Have any of you ever experienced something like this, and do you have any suggestions on the next best step to take with a situation like this?

Thanks again!

The Riot

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:15 am

Might be a head gasket leaking coolant, or a head bolt, leaking. Try to re-torque the head first. The head needs to be tightened down, after a little use, after a rebuild.
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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby ctltmp » Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:25 am

You used sealant on the head bolts correct?
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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby The Riot » Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:03 pm

No, sealant on the bolts. I used gasket sealant on several of the gaskets, but don't remember what I used on the head gasket if anything, but for sure no sealant on the actual bolts.

What are you recommending / suggesting as bolt sealant?

Thanks,
The Riot

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:50 pm

Remove the head bolts one at a time and apply a PTFE sealant on the threads and retorque it before removing another one. Repeat until all have been sealed. Note, the head bolts extend into the water area of the block so the water will seep up the threads. If you did not use any sealer on the head gasket, it might be just as well to start over. You might even be able to re-use the same gasket, your choice.

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby ctltmp » Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:57 pm

I use permatex thread sealant. Most parts stores carry it. Do as advise in previous post. One bolt at a time. Some of those bolts go into water passages. I use copper spray on my head gaskets.

Hope this helps.
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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby The Riot » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:06 pm

Thanks, Gents. I'm thinking back over my engine overhaul and reassemble and pretty sure I used the Permatex Copper Sealant in the spray can when I put the head back on.
I believe I will try pulling the bolts one at the time and sealing the thread and re-torqueing.

I had no clue that the bolt holes extended into the water channels. If this is the problem, that the threads are leaking, this is much better news since I was thinking I definitely had a crack in the block. I'm thinking this is probably what's going on since I'm seeing the water in only that one small area.

thanks again,
The Riot

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby Bill Hudson » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:32 pm

Drain coolant out of the radiator to lower the coolant level or you will have a fountain when you remove the first head bolt.

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The Riot
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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby The Riot » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:57 pm

Thanks for that pointer, Bill, I'm sure happy to know that little gem of info. Are you speaking from experience ?
I'm guessing that whatever sealant I use will require that all mating parts, the bolts and the female threads, will need to be nice and dry.

I'll keep everybody posted on my progress.

Thanks again to all.

The Riot

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby Bill Hudson » Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:26 am

No personal experience but experience of others. :)

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:45 am

If you only have a small amount of moisture, it could be condensation. This is particularly true if the last time you ran it you didn't run it enough to get it thoroughly warmed up. If you didn't seal the head bolts, you need to go ahead and do that anyway.

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Re: Stuck Valve

Postby The Riot » Wed Aug 24, 2016 5:14 pm

I believe I'm going to pull the head to make sure that I have a good gasket and sealant and to take a good look at the valve and seat to make sure that I don't have any corrosion or pitting. Once I get the valve checked out I will put the head back on and put sealant on the bolt threads.
Hopefully this corrects the problem and stops the water from getting to the valve stem and guide area.

Thank you, thank you, very much for all of your get tips and suggestions. Your willingness to share your knowledge is truly remarkable.

regards,
The Riot


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