Drilling out broken screws

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mountain4don
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Drilling out broken screws

Postby mountain4don » Fri Aug 26, 2016 2:57 pm

I have a 1959 International Cub I am replacing the radiator on. When taking the radiator side sheet metal covers off, I broke one of the 10-24 screws that hold the bottom of the panel to the cast iron radiator base. Using a hand grinder I flattened the end of the screw protruding from the cast iron. But now I don't know how to go about drilling and tapping it for a new screw. I bought the tap, and I have a #26 drill for it. But what is the best technique or procedure to get the hole straight and in the center of the old screw? Anybody give me some help with this? :help:
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby Crimson Tim » Fri Aug 26, 2016 3:28 pm

I think you'll find the consensus on this site generally loves left handed drill bits for screw extraction.
That way, if the bit catches, it will back the screw out. If it doesn't, then you will still have accomplished drilling the screw out.
I might suggest hitting the center of the cut screw with a sharp punch gently. Just enough to provide a tiny dimple so the drill bit doesn't try to walk around before it gets a bite, but NOT enough to spread the screw which will make it even tighter in the hole. Then start with a small bit, just enough to establish a hole more definite than the dimple. Then move up to a larger bit, which will hopefully snag and spin the screw out.

If in doubt about the punch, skip it. It will make things harder if you expand the screw.

Also, PB blaster or the penetrating oil of your choice can only help.

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby tmays » Fri Aug 26, 2016 3:35 pm

Center punch. I take fine marker and Mark center of bolt. Can be difficult to know if punch is centered by just eyeballing it. Using a marker, you can erase if need be. Start out with small bit. Drill only as deep as needed
Thomas

mountain4don
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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby mountain4don » Fri Aug 26, 2016 3:46 pm

Crimson Tim wrote:I think you'll find the consensus on this site generally loves left handed drill bits for screw extraction.
That way, if the bit catches, it will back the screw out. If it doesn't, then you will still have accomplished drilling the screw out.
I might suggest hitting the center of the cut screw with a sharp punch gently. Just enough to provide a tiny dimple so the drill bit doesn't try to walk around before it gets a bite, but NOT enough to spread the screw which will make it even tighter in the hole. Then start with a small bit, just enough to establish a hole more definite than the dimple. Then move up to a larger bit, which will hopefully snag and spin the screw out.

If in doubt about the punch, skip it. It will make things harder if you expand the screw.

Also, PB blaster or the penetrating oil of your choice can only help.


And where would I find these left-handed drill bits? I have a can of PB Blaster so I will apply that and get it a soaking.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Aug 26, 2016 5:19 pm

mountain4don wrote:And where would I find these left-handed drill bits? I have a can of PB Blaster so I will apply that and get it a soaking.
I bought my set at HARBOR FREIGHT, less than $20 for the set. Stan

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby smallfarm » Fri Aug 26, 2016 6:23 pm

Some screw extractor kits have left handed bits included if you need to buy an extractor kit. I plan on wiring my drill press to run in reverse some day. They are the bomb! As far as not hitting the screw to hard, it doesn't take much of a hit to tighten things -- error to the side of caution.
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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby regwal » Fri Aug 26, 2016 6:36 pm

Like TMays said, if the screw doesn't come out then just retap in the hole you drilled. Left hand bits are sure handy working on these little tractors.

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby mountain4don » Fri Aug 26, 2016 7:40 pm

smallfarm wrote:Some screw extractor kits have left handed bits included if you need to buy an extractor kit. I plan on wiring my drill press to run in reverse some day. They are the bomb! As far as not hitting the screw to hard, it doesn't take much of a hit to tighten things -- error to the side of caution.


So, how would you get your Cub up on the side and under your drill press to drill these holes out of the sides of the cast iron radiator base? I have used a left hand drill bit in my drill press by taking off one of the belts and had my wife advance the bit as I stood to the side on a ladder and turned the pulley backwards by hand. And it worked ok for the small job I had. I also thought about taking the legs off one of my ShopSmiths and setting it up as a horizontal drill press and starting out with a centering drill bit like you use in a metal lathe to start the hole in the center of the bolt. Having everything precisely clamped down so I could center it. But that looked like too much work.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Aug 26, 2016 7:42 pm

Have you read this "HOW TO" on this topic? viewtopic.php?f=147&t=44710

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby Dale Finch » Fri Aug 26, 2016 11:03 pm

tmays wrote:Drill only as deep as needed

I wanted to reemphasize not to drill too deeply! The bolster (lower steering gear housing) holds water for the radiator, and it is fairly easy to drill right through, causing a nice leak! :big crying:

Also, "chase" all the threads of the bolt holes, so you don't end up breaking more screws. (I just use the correct-size tap) I try to do that for ANY bolts on the cub I remove.

mountain4don
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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby mountain4don » Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:37 am

Dale Finch wrote:
tmays wrote:Drill only as deep as needed

I wanted to reemphasize not to drill too deeply! The bolster (lower steering gear housing) holds water for the radiator, and it is fairly easy to drill right through, causing a nice leak! :big crying:

Also, "chase" all the threads of the bolt holes, so you don't end up breaking more screws. (I just use the correct-size tap) I try to do that for ANY bolts on the cub I remove.


I already bought the tapered tap and bottoming tap for these screw holes and cleaned out the other three holes. Plus cleaned out the 20 holes that hold the radiator down to the bottom with a tap. I will put a piece of tape around the drill bit to use as a depth gauge so I don't go too deep. :thanx:
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

mountain4don
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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby mountain4don » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:59 pm

staninlowerAL wrote:
mountain4don wrote:And where would I find these left-handed drill bits? I have a can of PB Blaster so I will apply that and get it a soaking.
I bought my set at HARBOR FREIGHT, less than $20 for the set. Stan


I drove up-town this morning to the Harbor Freight store and found one of those left-hand drill bit sets for $7.99. And with a 20% off cupon from our Electric Cooperative newspaper it only cost me $6.88! So, I took all of that extra money and went to the Ace Hardware store and bought all new screws too. But the style doesn't quite match the originals as they are all chrome plated instead of rusty with some specks of red paint on them. So, what should I do about that?
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby Waif » Sat Aug 27, 2016 5:47 pm

A wood box with a lightbulb for heat, and moisture in a can to add humidity can age steel.
An ol timer used a pee can to add humidity and make muzzle loading barrels look aged.
If drain cleaner is available,using ventilation and other warnings ,it can darken metal with a soak.
Then a toothpick can be used to dab paint specks on cleaned parts. A couple horse hairs or paintbrush hairs too.
I know what you mean though, I have bright fasteners that clash with the tractors work cloths like pretty cuff links with bib overalls.

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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby staninlowerAL » Sat Aug 27, 2016 8:26 pm

Acid wash like muratic acid or OSPHO will etch the surface so you can add paint if you like or douse them with water and let natural rusting occur. Neversieze on the threads before reassembly will help prevent a repeat of drilling the broken screws in the future. Stan

staninlowerAL
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Re: Drilling out broken screws

Postby staninlowerAL » Sat Aug 27, 2016 8:33 pm

mountain4don wrote:I will put a piece of tape around the drill bit to use as a depth gauge so I don't go too deep. :thanx:
In the event Murphy's Law occurs and you create a leak you can fashion a short wooden dowel and drive it in the hole. When the water from the radiator contacts it the wood will swell up and no more leak. :roll: BTDT. I once had a leak on a road trip 300 miles from home, on the weekend and at night. Started leaking coolant from a well placed rock on a radiator tube. Made a temporary plug from a popsicle stick and left the radiator cap loose, came home and made repairs. Stan


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