Changing the clutch

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Bill Pearson
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:35 am
Zip Code: 44131

Changing the clutch

Postby Bill Pearson » Fri Sep 16, 2016 3:54 pm

Im getting ready, disconecting everything to install a new clutch on my cub. I disconected the hydrolic lines at the unit. First question I have is should I completely remove the lines? Next question is How much Hydrolic oil do i put in and what type, or any hydrolic oil will do the job. Sometimes I tend to overthink things, probably doesnt matter. Better safe them sorry. Thanks in advance.

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Bill Hudson
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Tractors Owned: 57 F-Cub - Dad & Mom's Cub
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Location: OH, Madison

Re: Changing the clutch

Postby Bill Hudson » Fri Sep 16, 2016 4:28 pm

Bill,

You asked about the hydraulic lines and hydraulic oil, so let's get to it:
Hydraulic lines: Your choice, however, I prefer to leave the lines connected to the pump.
Oil: Many prefer to use Hy-Tran (excellent, high quality), most any hydraulic oil compatible with Hy-Tran will do.
Amount of oil: Refer to the owners manual here http://www.farmallcub.com/[ Sorry, direct links to manual section is not allowed. ]/files/Cub%20Owners%20and%20Operators%20Manuals/1957%20Operator's%20Manual%20McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%202-27-57%20OCR.pdf
Tools you will need:
    - wedges for front axle
    - splitting stands or means to support/block each half of the Cub
    - inside puller to remove pilot bushing
    - means to align the replaced clutch
    - aligning pins
Parts you will need:
    - clutch disc
    - rear seal and modified retainer (if the old one is leaking)
    - clutch pilot bushing
    - gaskets
    - throw out bearing (TOB), provided that the old one is toast

I'm sure that others will be along to add anything I may have forgotten. Oh, often a spare pair of hands is helpful. :) Independence is not that far from me and I'm available at a mutually convenient time (the offer is sincere).

Good luck and ask your questions. We like questions and pics.

Bill
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist

Eugene
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Re: Changing the clutch

Postby Eugene » Fri Sep 16, 2016 4:55 pm

Quite a number of posts on splitting the Cub, some with photos, some very recent. Use the search function, top of page.

Search for splitting stands, splitting the Cub, replacing the clutch, and anything else you can think of about splitting the tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Bill Pearson
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:35 am
Zip Code: 44131

Re: Changing the clutch

Postby Bill Pearson » Fri Sep 16, 2016 5:40 pm

Mr Hudson, thats one hell of a offer, I appreciate it. Im new to this and already am addicted to this site. I think I can handle this one now that I been digging into it slowly. I did leave the pump side of the lines connected. I wedged the front axle, hope I did it well enough. Tomorrow Im gonna make a few wedges, instead of shoving wood in there. I have a cherry picker on the front and a hoist secured to the roof on the back. I also have a guy I work with who was a g.m. mechanic coming over to lend a hand, hes done a few of these. In the process of taking things apart I found some other wiring issues, a distributor cap not seated and changed fluids and spark plugs. I think im ok. It doesnt appear that the rear seal is leaking but youre right nows the time to check it out. My number is 216-644-7058, if you wanna text me your number if i got a question Id sure appreciate it. Oh back to my original question, let me rephrase it. since the system still has some fluid in it ,in the pump and the lines. How can I tell when it is full when I refill it, seeing that it isnt completely empty ? P.S. My wife calls me OVERKILL BILL this is probably another shining example. Thanks again and have a great weekend.


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