Left brake

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J-man
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Left brake

Postby J-man » Sat Sep 24, 2016 7:28 pm

Hello,

I'm a new guy to cubs and just got another farmall cub with an issue that I haven't been able to work out. The left brake rod is froze up where it goes through the main body. I unhooked tge linkage and have been using a penetrating spray and tapping for days without any type of success. I am far from an expert and hope someone can help.

Thanks

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Glen
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Re: Left brake

Postby Glen » Sat Sep 24, 2016 7:52 pm

Hi,
That is what the guys on here have said to do before, soak it often with penetrating oil, at both ends, and keep working it until it comes loose. Use the pedal for leverage on it. It may take some time to come loose.
Be careful with the piece of metal on the left end that the linkage hooks onto, it is welded onto the shaft. I think I saw a pic before that someone broke it off.
Not sure about heating the shaft, the clutch housing is probably oily and greasy inside, you don't want a fire inside it.
If you do heat it, be really careful about fire on the outside or inside. :)
Last edited by Glen on Sun Sep 25, 2016 8:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Crimson Tim
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Re: Left brake

Postby Crimson Tim » Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:42 pm

Time to get out the torch.
I have read on here that this is one of the harder things on a Cub to unstick. Probably because bell housing it passes through is such a heat sink that it is difficult to heat much.
I have a '77 that had both brakes stuck when I got it. I was extremely fortunate. I was able to free them both with just a handheld propane torch in about 15 minutes per pedal. I would heat the housing around the brake rod, but try not to heat the rod itself. That should increase the clearance between the two and hopefully break the rust loose.

You may need more heat like an oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch, or you may need to heat it and let it cool several times to see results. You're just using the thermal expansion to force differential movement between the two parts. It's got more leverage than you do!

I was about to say that I would not quench it between hearings, but just let it air cool, because if you get it hot enough, quenching will make steel brittle. I'm having second thoughts about that, though. Chances are, you won't be getting it hot enough to make that happen. My further thought was that if you get the housing really hot, some of that heat will have migrated to the rod. If you were then to quench only the rod with ice water, it would cause an even more extreme temperature differential to really make the rod contract away from the housing. Maybe some of our more experienced metal workers would weigh in on that?

Once you are able to get some motion, work it! Keep up with the penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar; WD 40 really isn't in spite of how it's marketed) and move the pedal a lot. Mine have continued to free up in the couple of weeks since I busted them loose, though are still sticky. I may end up having to disassemble everything to really clean it out, but I am keeping hope alive that simply being used regularly will free it up the rest of the way. Some new pedal return springs may be in order, as well.

Good luck, and of course be careful with the torch!

Edit: Glen beat me to posting, with good advice, as always. Perhaps the OA or OP torch may cause a problem with a fire in the housing. With the handheld propane torch I was using (standard Bernzomatic plumbers torch), I'm sure there's no way to get that big chunk of bell housing to get hot enough to start a fire inside. Grime on the OUTSIDE, however, is another story. You'll be able to set fire to that with no problem, so make sure you clean that off as necessary, and mind what's behind where your torch is pointed. Could be wires or dead grass hanging nearby that will light up easily, too.

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Re: Left brake

Postby inairam » Sun Sep 25, 2016 7:05 am

Do not hit the shaft with a hammer. it soft steel and will mushroom and it will never come out. here is some more tips http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... =1&t=38797

I tapped it used oak dowels. In, out and back and forth motion to try and free it. There are several points to oil in the break area not just the torque tube. I would also try different penetrating oils. I have tried several. I have not done a scientific study, but I think they work differently and some work better than others in a given situation. This may be part of the reason different members swear by different oils.

If you do use heat and applied the penetrating oil first try to clean it off. They will burn very nicely

The most important tool here is patience. Breaking the torque tube and replacing it is no fun.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

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J-man
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Re: Left brake

Postby J-man » Sun Sep 25, 2016 3:31 pm

Guys, ya'll are awesome, I will try the above only problem is my D.A. did use a hammer on it already, I hope I didn't mess it up even worse. Thanks!

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J-man
Posts: 25
Joined: Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:28 am
Zip Code: 35080
Tractors Owned: International 154 X 2
Farmall Cub X 2
Farmall Super A X 3
Location: Helena, Alabama

Re: Left brake

Postby J-man » Sun Sep 25, 2016 7:01 pm

Update, I took a little bit of everyone's advice including those of the links;
1) cleaned it of external grease
2) resisted the urge to break out my trusty acetylene torch and used a simple propane torch.
3) heated the full radius until I saw which section wasn't slightly starting to spew oil/grease and then concentrated on that area
4)heated fairly hot and then stopped and then carefully sprayed liquid wrench into the joint (with my fire extinguisher beside me just in case) while lightly tapping with my brass hammer on each section of the radius
5) allowed to cool a little and repeated 3 times.
6) started cussing myself for buying a forth tractor that I needed like a hole in the head.
7) made a cocktail
8) tried the pedal one more time and WAALAH she went to the floor!!!!
9) thanked the Good Lord for putting up with idiots like me

Thanks to you all!


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