Head Bolts

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Don B.
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Head Bolts

Postby Don B. » Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:42 pm

I am working on a '48 Cub that the PO had started to restore. Engine was rebuilt and some of the big sheet metal has been painted. I do want to replace the head bolts with new grade 9 bolts with sealant. My question is whether I can replace one bolt at a time instead of starting completely over with a new gasket, etc. If that is okay, I am assuming that I would torque the bolts gradually though.
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Yeah, I know it looks like it fell from the sky, but it's already come a long way from this photo taken the day I brought it home.
By the way, I have learned that it's easier to tie a WHOLE tractor down than it's individual parts...
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staninlowerAL
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:07 pm

I believe you should be able to replace them one at a time but I think it would be better to torque each one to the recommended spec in the beginning rather than releasing the tension on the gasket to start over. That would be about the same as taking them all out then adding the new bolts all at one time. JMHO Stan.

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ricky racer
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby ricky racer » Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:33 pm

staninlowerAL wrote:I believe you should be able to replace them one at a time but I think it would be better to torque each one to the recommended spec in the beginning rather than releasing the tension on the gasket to start over. That would be about the same as taking them all out then adding the new bolts all at one time. JMHO Stan.


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Jim Becker
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Nov 15, 2016 10:07 pm

I think I would go to each existing bolt in reverse tightening sequence. Break it loose then bring it back to slightly snug. Then, in normal sequence, replace each old bolt with the new and tighten it up to the usual first torque. Finish torqueing as usual.

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Peter Person
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Peter Person » Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:46 am

Seem to recall that some of the head bolts go through the water jacket. Need to drain the coolant to prevent it from leaking into where it doesn't belong.
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Rob in NH
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Rob in NH » Wed Nov 16, 2016 7:54 am

Why do you need to replace the bolts, do you think the head gasket is leaking?
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Don B.
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Don B. » Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:38 am

The background on this project is that the PO rebuilt the engine with the assistance of an experienced mechanic (although not a Cub mechanic). The restoration work that the PO has already done appears pretty good but he has not been on this forum. So I wonder whether how much he was aware of regarding Cub-specific tricks or issues. For example, he installed the rear main seal in the original configuration so I will upgrade that with TST before I put it back together.
I am not sure the mechanic would have used sealant on the head bolts. After reading some of the forum about replacing head bolts with Grade 9 bolts (Chipmaker's issues and others) it sounded like a good thing to go ahead and do now. I'd rather do it now than later.
No coolant has not been put in yet. The engine is still on the stand.
Eventually, when I get this thing close to being ready to start up, I will probably bring it to a Cubfest for moral support!
Thank you all. I appreciate all your knowledge and experience.
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inairam
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby inairam » Wed Nov 16, 2016 9:11 am

If you are concerned and want to use the grade 9 bolts and sealant, for the price of a head gasket, I would start from scratch and pull the head. If nothing else it gives you an opportunity to inspect the work done by the PO and his mechanic friend and add the sealant to the gasket and the bolts (different sealants).

The other option is to run the engine and look for coolant leaks. If none, leave it alone. Do not go looking for problems that may not be there.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!


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