Help with engine rebuild

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SAAndrus
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Zip Code: 70535
Tractors Owned: 1955-Cub

Help with engine rebuild

Postby SAAndrus » Sun Feb 26, 2017 2:44 am

Hello everyone! I have done many searches trying to find my answer but cant seem to find what im looking for.
I am in the process of rebuilding a '55 Cub that my parents have been having for 40 plus years. I brought the engine to the local machine shop ,NAPA, to get it rebuilt. I got an estimate from them of $2400 to do everything. This was a lot higher than I expected. So I went in to discuss things with them. They tell me the rebuild kit is $750, $500 to reassemble the motor, $125 for valves. I know these little engines are a little more expensive to rebuild but that's crazy.
I have searched for rebuild kits from sponsors and others. I did find this kit http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farma ... OKCUB.html which seams to have everything I need for half the price the shop quoted me. Has anyone used this kit? This kit comes with flat top pistons. Do dome pistons give enough increase in power that I should spend the extra money for them?
Can you give me any feedback as to if this is good stuff or cheap junk. I am a disabled fireman having to live on a fixed income so I have to watch my spending so I could really use your help so that I buy the best I can for what I can afford. Thanks in advance for your help.
To God be the Glory!

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ricky racer
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby ricky racer » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:43 am

I can't give you any feedback regarding the kit, all I can tell you is I rebuilt mine for a cost of around $1200. I did all of the teardown and reassembly. The machine shop bored the cylinders, boiled the block, decked the head and block, ground the valves and installed hardened exhaust valve seats. My crank didn't need to be ground and my valve guides were good. I don't remember the exact cost for the machine work but it cost about as much as all of the components.
Rebuilding a Cub engine isn't cheap but it will last you a lifetime and what else can you get for that kind of money? I've gone through my '53 from front to back going through everything replacing or repairing worn parts as I went. I figure I have, what I consider a "new" 1953 Cub with a total investment of around $2500. What could I buy that's new out there for that kind of money? The more work you can do yourself the cheaper it will be to repair.
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muleboss
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby muleboss » Sun Feb 26, 2017 9:30 am

Things to check
-Does it really need bored?
Does it really need new pistons?

inairam
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby inairam » Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:51 am

I have used this website from find engine rebuilders in my area http://www.aera.org/ when I need a head resurface and valves ground. You type in your zip code and you see engine rebuilding companies in your area who are members of the aera. You may want to see some other quotes.

I have to say I got a similar number for a total rebuild - that is drop-off and pick up - no DIY. Understand the C-60 is a small engine but they charge the same rate working on this engine as a large truck or racing engine. It is taking a spot in the production line same shop rate large or small engine.

You should not purchase the engine parts until the block is inspected. As mule boss wrote you may not need to bore or pistons. If you need to bore you do not know by how much.

One more point - I do not know Ricky Racer but I have read many of his posts and his project posts. I do know I do not have the same skill set as Ricky. So if I tried a DYI engine rebuild I not sure of the quality of the engine I would have. You may not be sure of the quality of the engine from a shop either but you have a warranty. Just something to consider when you look at $2500 for the rebuild
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

SAAndrus
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby SAAndrus » Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:16 pm

I'm sorry for the confusion. The engine is at the shop has been cleaned, magnafluxed checking for cracks, had to be bored to .40 over, crank is just bad enough that the Polish will cause it to be just bad enough to go .10 bearings. Valve seats were good, even though valves were in really bad shape. I am comfortable with my ability to rebuild the motor myself just thought I would save myself the pain and let them do the work. But I have more time than money so I'll just have to take my time and get it done.
I just don't want to buy parts that won't last, and don't want to spend money unnecessarily. I was hoping someone may have used this kit and could give me feed back.
To God be the Glory!

inairam
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby inairam » Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:26 pm

I would look else where than yesterday's tractor for these parts. pm tst for a sourse. he would now
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

Eugene
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby Eugene » Sun Feb 26, 2017 4:11 pm

SAAndrus wrote:I have more time than money so I'll just have to take my time and get it done. I just don't want to spend money unnecessarily.
Don't over look you local auto parts stores.

Make a list of needed parts and sizes. Visit each auto parts store, separately price each item, write down the price and store name. What you will find out is that there can be a considerable difference in prices for the same identical item.

When checking prices on the internet, include the shipping and handling costs.
I have an excuse. CRS.

tst
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby tst » Sun Feb 26, 2017 5:52 pm

I found that the gasket set in the kit you are looking at is poor quality & missing many of the gaskets and seals that come in the Victor brand kit which was the OEM from IH, the other parts were mostly import

SAAndrus
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby SAAndrus » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:35 pm

tst wrote:I found that the gasket set in the kit you are looking at is poor quality & missing many of the gaskets and seals that come in the Victor brand kit which was the OEM from IH, the other parts were mostly import


Thanks for giving me the heads up. The price of this kit is a lot cheaper than every other kit I have looked at which concerned me.
I did get a price from my local Napa. They quoted me $750 plus another $120 for the valves. No valve Springs, keeps, or valve guides. They were planning to reuse the old one's, which concerned me. So I guess it's back to the search for parts.
To God be the Glory!

tst
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby tst » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:38 pm

Here they sell good quality
http://hdengineparts.com/main.sc

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Dusty B
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby Dusty B » Sun Feb 26, 2017 9:45 pm

Check with local junior colleges that have Automotive Rebuild courses did my truck engine College had boring planning and all other Machining equipment available parts were also available hat educational discount prices! Just requires you being able to meet their class schedule and have an instructor willing to tolerate senior citizens!!
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DDean
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Re: Help with engine rebuild

Postby DDean » Mon Feb 27, 2017 8:54 pm

Just have them short block it, do the rest yourself. I paid $1500. I had new pistons .020 over, bored .020 over, polish crank .010 under, deck head, cleaned block and they reassembled and torqued crank, pistons, cam lifters, cam installed new o-rings, oil pump and cover and rear cover. That is all I would let them do. I thought I over paid, but it is what it is.

Definitely do not let them close up the engine. Some shops don't know about the timing marks on the idle gear that runs the governor. Don't ask me how I found that out. Once that pulley is on, she's a bear to get back off. That's a whole lot of back tracking once the front end is on and you go to install the governor and the timing mark isn't making any sense. Look that engine over really good before installing it.

One last thing, when you get the engine back and when you have the front cover off and the idle gear is exposed. Find your timing marks. Take a yellow paint stick or some paint and lightly touch the tooth on top of idle gear the governer gear is suppose to slip into. You'll thank yourself later. You'll never find it with the oil seal in place where mag goes.


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