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Valve/block issue - update
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- Ken (48 Cub)
- 10+ Years
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1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
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Valve/block issue - update
Working on the 57 lowboy. Tractor runs good with very minor blow by until I engage the PTO with C3 belly mower attached. The valves immediately chatter loudly and there is major blow by. The tractor also gets very hot and will die unless I disengage the PTO.
So I decided the remove the valve cover and take a look...I did not like what I found.
Can someone post a picture of what the block should look like here?
The engine casting code is - 11-27-C I think.
Anybody ever seen this kind of damage before? Is this block junk?
I tore the engine down today to get a closer look. NO metal pieces in the oil pan. So some cleaned up their mess. This damage looks intentional to me. The holes are very uniform. A PO modification maybe... The engine turns over smoothly with the hand crank. A mystery I guess.
Here are a couple more pictures of the valves and head.
So I decided the remove the valve cover and take a look...I did not like what I found.
Can someone post a picture of what the block should look like here?
The engine casting code is - 11-27-C I think.
Anybody ever seen this kind of damage before? Is this block junk?
I tore the engine down today to get a closer look. NO metal pieces in the oil pan. So some cleaned up their mess. This damage looks intentional to me. The holes are very uniform. A PO modification maybe... The engine turns over smoothly with the hand crank. A mystery I guess.
Here are a couple more pictures of the valves and head.
Last edited by Ken (48 Cub) on Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ken, Annie the '48.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
- Bill V in Md
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Re: Valve/block issue
Ken, this photo is from my 1948 Cub engine.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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Re: Valve/block issue
No to first question. Yes to second question.Ken (48 Cub) wrote:Anybody ever seen this kind of damage before? Is this block junk?
I have an excuse. CRS.
- Ken (48 Cub)
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1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Valve/block issue
Thanks Bill and Eugene...that's what I was afraid of.
Ken, Annie the '48.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
Sometimes it is hard to tell if a part is damaged from looking at a picture, heck sometimes even with the part in hand, particularly when looking at the jagged edges that were made as part of a casting. In this case, the holes are there for oil to drain back to the pan. Whether some critical material has broken loose is hard to tell. Are there any jagged edges where something broke? Most of the edges look to me like they have the original glyptal coating in place. Besides, both holes look about the same, seems unlikely both would have similar damage.
I am not convinced anything is wrong with this block. In any case, I don't see how this would explain your current problem. Are you sure the chatter is from the valves? Exactly what symptom are you seeing of overheating? How quickly does it happen?
I am not convinced anything is wrong with this block. In any case, I don't see how this would explain your current problem. Are you sure the chatter is from the valves? Exactly what symptom are you seeing of overheating? How quickly does it happen?
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
Looks like the sand casting bled into the castiron block in that area. Maybe this one missed the deburing process at the factory.
In our drag race engines we use a handgrinder with a rotary file to remove those sharp ragged edges to improve the return oil flow.
Ot,, when I was working for American motors I had one of those Mr machine 390 4 speed cars come in on warranty. Running very bad with very low oil pressure running on seven cylinders.
I dropped the oil pan right away playing on my gut feeling. I found pieces of a cracked lifter in the oil pan. I inspected the camshaft and all was good. I installed a new lifter and off she went. I expected this 390 to fly. Great looking car but it was a dog.
In our drag race engines we use a handgrinder with a rotary file to remove those sharp ragged edges to improve the return oil flow.
Ot,, when I was working for American motors I had one of those Mr machine 390 4 speed cars come in on warranty. Running very bad with very low oil pressure running on seven cylinders.
I dropped the oil pan right away playing on my gut feeling. I found pieces of a cracked lifter in the oil pan. I inspected the camshaft and all was good. I installed a new lifter and off she went. I expected this 390 to fly. Great looking car but it was a dog.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
- Slim140
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
I agree with Jim, not sure there's anything wrong with your block. I can't find a picture of the engine on the Cub I recently rebuilt with all the components in it but I did find this one and the holes look close to what you have.
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
some castings are not as nice as others, there is nothing wrong with that block
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
I've studied the pictures for three days now and can't find anything different than my block. My block looks almost exactly the same, with rough edges from the casting process. Wish I had some pictures from last time I had the valve cover off.
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
I too was questioning whether that was damage or not. First off, I can't envision how a block would receive damage of this nature and then to have the same damage in two locations is just a bit too much. I'm not sure the drain back holes are usually quite so large, so it looks a bit odd but I don't see it as damage.
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
Good oil pressure?
Is it for sure valve train noise?
Were compression tests run before tear down?
Adding a load and blow by increasing hints of rings or cylinder issues ....maybe.
Is it for sure valve train noise?
Were compression tests run before tear down?
Adding a load and blow by increasing hints of rings or cylinder issues ....maybe.
- Bigdog
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
Wrist pin noise or possibly rod noise?
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
The hole are cast in oil returns, not a mod or defect. I have to admit I was concerned when I first say them.
Last edited by inairam on Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- ricky racer
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
Jim Becker wrote:Sometimes it is hard to tell if a part is damaged from looking at a picture, heck sometimes even with the part in hand, particularly when looking at the jagged edges that were made as part of a casting. In this case, the holes are there for oil to drain back to the pan. Whether some critical material has broken loose is hard to tell. Are there any jagged edges where something broke? Most of the edges look to me like they have the original glyptal coating in place. Besides, both holes look about the same, seems unlikely both would have similar damage.
I am not convinced anything is wrong with this block. In any case, I don't see how this would explain your current problem. Are you sure the chatter is from the valves? Exactly what symptom are you seeing of overheating? How quickly does it happen?
I have seen this before and agree with Jim, I see nothing wrong with the block. The reason you didn't find any material in the oil pan is because its been like that since it came from the factory.
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Re: Valve/block issue - update
Here's a picture of my block. It has the same ragged edges on the casting.
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