1957 Cub

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ajhbike
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1957 Cub

Postby ajhbike » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:02 am

when purchasing replacement bolts for drawbar, what grade strength bolts should I get?

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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby staninlowerAL » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:07 am

You can check the TC37 parts list in the manuals section at the top of this page or CASEIH online parts website for OEM description and part numbers but I like grade 8 or better for areas where strength is important.
Last edited by staninlowerAL on Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Barnyard
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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby Barnyard » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:08 am

Are you talking about the bolts from the bracket to the final, or from the bracket to the drawbar? The bolts from the bracket to the final are tapered bolts and should all be the same grade.
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ajhbike
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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby ajhbike » Tue Mar 28, 2017 7:26 pm

I am talking about the 3 holes in front of the rear axle...2 that are parallel on the horizontal and 1 that is a couple of inches above those 2. They appear to be implement bolt on points or a place to reverse mount the drawbar. I want to attach a step (like the home made one on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzkzuerKB5c ) but I do not know the bolt size for those holes.

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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby staninlowerAL » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:23 pm

The holes you are referring to are for implement or drawbar attachment points as you guessed. If you look closely the same 3 holes are at the rear of the housing and the final drive casting is reversible, left to right and right to left. The bolts for this are 5/8 NC and tapered as Barnyard pointed out. They are the same as the bolts on the left and right side of the torque tube where other implements are attached. You can check with the FORUM Sponsors, they might have some available or try a "wanted" add on THE VINE forum. In a "pinch", I have used 5/8 wheel studs that are course thread on one end and fine thread on the other end. Fine thread, tapered lug nuts are available to be able to memic the tapered bolts needed for the drawbar brackets.

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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby Eugene » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:41 pm

For the application shown in the video you can use standard bolts and a lock washers to hold the bracket in place.

Measure the depth of the thread hole in the final. Be sure to purchase bolts that do not reach the depth of the hole.
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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:47 pm

Eugene wrote:For the application shown in the video you can use standard bolts and a lock washers to hold the bracket in place.

Measure the depth of the thread hole in the final. Be sure to purchase bolts that do not reach the depth of the hole.
or if you need, you can put washers on them for this application.
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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:55 pm

I'm no mechanical engineer, but I think it would cause less stress on that forward bolt hole in the final if he had made the attaching plate taller with a 3rd bolt to the final. May be overkill, but... :?

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Don McCombs
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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby Don McCombs » Tue Mar 28, 2017 10:36 pm

Actually, the original style step is much better, IMHO. No bolts, easy to put on and remove as needed, doesn't interfere with implement mounting.
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ajhbike
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Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
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Location: Branford, CT

Re: 1957 Cub

Postby ajhbike » Wed Mar 29, 2017 6:15 am

But I don't get to practice welding! You are right in that I have to make sure that it doesn't interfere with belly mounting the grading blade. Why tapered or shouldered bolts...what is the advantage over standard bolts?
Thanks all. This step is actually for my wife to climb up on....she hasn't driven a tractor since she was a kid in the Dakotas.

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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby Stanton » Wed Mar 29, 2017 6:42 am

A tapered bolt will center on the tapered opening in the drawbar bracket.

Here's a How To on making your own tapered bolts: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=149&t=56390&p=464392&hilit=tapered#p464392
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ajhbike
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Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
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1955 Ferguson TO-35
Location: Branford, CT

Re: 1957 Cub

Postby ajhbike » Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:43 am

Awesome, thanks

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Re: 1957 Cub

Postby Jim Becker » Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:50 am

Tapered head bolts go into a countersunk hole. If you are bolting through a plain hole in flat steel, use a standard bolt with a lock washer. A step will be fine with standard bolts. Grade 2 would be OK for the step. But I would get grade 5 as you may eventually use the same bolts to hold something else.


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