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Cub not running, need some advice.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:29 am
- Zip Code: 30107
- Tractors Owned: 63 Cub
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ball Ground, GA
Cub not running, need some advice.
I got my first, and hopefully last, tractor this morning; a 63 Cub. The guy I bought it from is the original owner and had 3 cubs but he is 86 and decided to sell them. It has a mowing deck, not sure which size, and rear wheel weights. He said it was running when he parked it but suspected a fuel issue because it would "run for a while and then cut off". It's missing the alternator (generator?) Belt but he had one he included along with a new belt for the mower.
I am going to replace the battery, all the fluids and filters, and put the belt on. I was thinking of putting in a fuel additive off the bat to try to clean the fuel system. Not sure what to use, any tips would be appreciated.
Since you guys are the pros, what would you recommend that I do off the bat that I'm not thinking of? I have been looking at the other post about what to do with one that's running but this one isn't currently. Thanks in advance!
I am going to replace the battery, all the fluids and filters, and put the belt on. I was thinking of putting in a fuel additive off the bat to try to clean the fuel system. Not sure what to use, any tips would be appreciated.
Since you guys are the pros, what would you recommend that I do off the bat that I'm not thinking of? I have been looking at the other post about what to do with one that's running but this one isn't currently. Thanks in advance!
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- Team Cub
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Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
Ben, Once you have the new battery installed, check for a good spark at the plugs. You can check fuel flow by removing the main jet (brass hex head) on the side of the carburetor. Turn on the gas at the sediment bowl, and check for a good steady pencil sized stream for about a minute. The orifice in the main jet can be cleaned with a small copper wire (like phone wire). If flow is inadequate, there is a filter screen in the gas inlet, and also a filter screen in the sediment bowl. The sporadic running may be from fuel flow or from a coil going bad. Let us know what you find. In "quick links" above left, you can click on "PDF manuals" and download owner's, service, and implement manuals. If you post pics, we can identify what mower you have.
Bob
Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
- Bill Hudson
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Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
In addition to what Bob has offered, you might want to check out this thread http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=145&t=16305. There is enough there to keep you busy for a bit. Your Cub will be better off as result.
One key task is highly recommended before startup of a Cub that has been setting for a while, prime the oil pump. Here is a thread on one method of priming the pump http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94417&p=744628&hilit=prime+pump#p744628
Good luck and enjoy the your Cub. Oh, this may not be your last Cub, they seem to be addictive.
Bill
One key task is highly recommended before startup of a Cub that has been setting for a while, prime the oil pump. Here is a thread on one method of priming the pump http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94417&p=744628&hilit=prime+pump#p744628
Good luck and enjoy the your Cub. Oh, this may not be your last Cub, they seem to be addictive.
Bill
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:29 pm
- Zip Code: 49343
- Tractors Owned: 48 Farmall Cub "Seen Yore Dobbin"
53 F-Cub W/Loader. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
Do prime the oil system as mentioned.
A complete tune up can help eliminate issues and is the inevitable anyway.
A tired coil can cause cutting out after running a while. Some recover after cooling down a while , then cut out when warm again.
Lots of info to research and digest in the multiple manuals.
Take your time ,( not easy when you want your Cub to run.) And most issues have tests before replacing something.
You need to get familiar with your tractor to begin diagnosis ...a loose, intermittent grounding, or bad wire could be your problem. Look her over good when learning each circuit. Simple wiring , but important too.
Congrats on your acquisition!
A complete tune up can help eliminate issues and is the inevitable anyway.
A tired coil can cause cutting out after running a while. Some recover after cooling down a while , then cut out when warm again.
Lots of info to research and digest in the multiple manuals.
Take your time ,( not easy when you want your Cub to run.) And most issues have tests before replacing something.
You need to get familiar with your tractor to begin diagnosis ...a loose, intermittent grounding, or bad wire could be your problem. Look her over good when learning each circuit. Simple wiring , but important too.
Congrats on your acquisition!
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- Team Cub
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Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
I would not put a lot of effort into trying to fix "run for a while and then cut off" until I had seen it first hand. I would do the fluids and maybe prime the oil pump. After you get the battery in, check for spark at the plugs and fix if needed. First thing I would do fuel wise is inspect the fuel tank. Clean it out if needed then add some fuel. At that point, check for and remedy fuel flow as Bob McCarty described. Once you have confirmed spark and fuel flow, try to start it. By the time you get to this point, you may have already fixed "run for a while and then cut off".
Once it starts, make sure the oil pressure comes up. Run it until it "cuts off" then immediately check for spark at the plugs. If the spark is still good, run it until it stops again (assuming it can restart after a few minutes) and check fuel flow. Chances are either spark or fuel is either gone or greatly reduced when it quits. You will then know what system to dig deeper into.
Once it starts, make sure the oil pressure comes up. Run it until it "cuts off" then immediately check for spark at the plugs. If the spark is still good, run it until it stops again (assuming it can restart after a few minutes) and check fuel flow. Chances are either spark or fuel is either gone or greatly reduced when it quits. You will then know what system to dig deeper into.
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"John", 1952 Cub
"Paul", 1951 Cub
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So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story. - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
BenM wrote:I got my first, and hopefully last, tractor this morning; a 63 Cub.
Good luck with that! It's not that his Cub won't serve you well once you work out the bugs... it certainly will. It's just that Cubs are contagious. After initial exposure to the pathogen, your chances of breaking out in a full-blown case of tractors is very high!
Welcome! The folks here will get you straightened out in no time!
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:29 am
- Zip Code: 30107
- Tractors Owned: 63 Cub
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ball Ground, GA
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
Yeah, I'm already thinking of taking it down to the park for a little drive like some people might walk their dogs...
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2803
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:29 am
- Zip Code: 30107
- Tractors Owned: 63 Cub
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ball Ground, GA
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
Got the pics to work. Here she is!
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:29 am
- Zip Code: 30107
- Tractors Owned: 63 Cub
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ball Ground, GA
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
A couple things to note from this morning. It looks like it has been converted to 12v.
Here's the mower:
Its leaking fluid from underneath in 3 places as far as I can tell. It's dripping on top of the mower. One looks like from the drain plug, not worried about that too much since it should be an easy fix. Could use some tips on the other 2...
Drain plug:
The one I am worried about most. Not sure if its leaking here or running down from the next leak:
This doesn't look too bad but not sure what it is yet:
last question, on the front of the carburetor theres a free moving pieve that I thought originally might be the throttle. followed the throttle to the back of the carb so not sure what it is. What is it and should it be attached to something? its directly to the right of the 2 hose clamps in this pic.
Sorry for the huge pics, have mounds of info to sift through with the manuals and internet so anything you guys can tell me would be appreciated. Thanks folks!
Here's the mower:
Its leaking fluid from underneath in 3 places as far as I can tell. It's dripping on top of the mower. One looks like from the drain plug, not worried about that too much since it should be an easy fix. Could use some tips on the other 2...
Drain plug:
The one I am worried about most. Not sure if its leaking here or running down from the next leak:
This doesn't look too bad but not sure what it is yet:
last question, on the front of the carburetor theres a free moving pieve that I thought originally might be the throttle. followed the throttle to the back of the carb so not sure what it is. What is it and should it be attached to something? its directly to the right of the 2 hose clamps in this pic.
Sorry for the huge pics, have mounds of info to sift through with the manuals and internet so anything you guys can tell me would be appreciated. Thanks folks!
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2803
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
it had great sheet metal and nice rubber. get it running and do a power wash try some additives for the leakes and see how you do. this will let you run it while u develop a plan. get to know it before you start on anything major. learn the parts and service manuals in addition to the great info on this site
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:29 pm
- Zip Code: 49343
- Tractors Owned: 48 Farmall Cub "Seen Yore Dobbin"
53 F-Cub W/Loader. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
Your free moving piece on front of carb should move ( because of linkage on backside of carb moving throttle throughrod).
The free moving piece allows moving it by hand on handcrank starts of tractors with a handcrank .
Or maybe better put..history wise ,tractors without electric start ,did not have a linkage to choke at / from operator station.
The free moving piece allows moving it by hand on handcrank starts of tractors with a handcrank .
Or maybe better put..history wise ,tractors without electric start ,did not have a linkage to choke at / from operator station.
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 11817
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 8:02 pm
- Zip Code: 80501
- Tractors Owned: Cubs, MH Pony, Shaw, Allis G, 1934 Silver King, JD LA and LI, Gibson D, David Bradley Tri-Trac
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CO, Longmont
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
That's the choke. On the backside that shaft attaches to a choke lever and a rod inserts into it that goes back to the left side of the dash/instrument panel. Your mower is a Woods. There are manuals for the various models available where I sent you before. If the leak is from the rear, it's the input shaft seal. If from the front, the rear engine seal. If the transmission is overfilled (or the level has raised due to water condensation, fluid will leak out the axle seals. The round cover with the wingnut allows you to view the throw out bearing and clutch fingers. Leaking from there is also usually due to a faulty rear engine seal. The seal retainer has to be machined for insertion of a new seal, but you can ask about that down the road. You might want to get some Purple Power, Simple Green, etc. and wash down the Cub before you get to far into it.
Bob
Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
- Glen
- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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- Location: Wa.
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
Hi,
The experts on here recommend that people read the Cub owner's manual, it has much info about operation, lubrication, and maintenance. There is a 1963 owner's manual in the PDF Manuals. That is found at the Quick links at the top left of the page, like Bob said above.
Cubs have a manual choke you have to use so the engine will run when the engine is cold.
The choke rod is there in your pics, it attaches to the lever on the engine side of the carburetor, there is a pic below of the carb and lever, from TM Tractor, the lever is at the right lower side of the pic. If the rod is not attached, hook it on, then you can use the choke from the seat. It uses a small cotter key to attach it on at the carb.
The lever on the carb should point about straight down when the choke is fully open, if your choke rod is the original length.
The lever on the carb is held on by a screw, loosen the screw and you can turn the lever, if needed. Be sure the screw is tight when done, they loosen sometimes from use.
Below are pics, the lower pic shows how the rod should be bent, so it is above the Touch Control tubes. Then the engine vibration doesn't wear the rod into the tubes. If the rod is rubbing on the tubes when connected to the carb, it probably needs more bend at the bend in the pic. If it needs bending, do that before attaching it to the carburetor.
Cubs have points in the Battery Ignition Unit, they need filing or replacing, or the engine may not start good, or run good. If they haven't been serviced in a long time, they probably need service. The point surfaces should be flat and shiny. I take them out and file them with a large flat file. Wipe off the filings with a clean rag. If they are burned, replacing them is better.
Here is a page from a Cub manual showing how to work on the points.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg
The experts on here recommend that people read the Cub owner's manual, it has much info about operation, lubrication, and maintenance. There is a 1963 owner's manual in the PDF Manuals. That is found at the Quick links at the top left of the page, like Bob said above.
Cubs have a manual choke you have to use so the engine will run when the engine is cold.
The choke rod is there in your pics, it attaches to the lever on the engine side of the carburetor, there is a pic below of the carb and lever, from TM Tractor, the lever is at the right lower side of the pic. If the rod is not attached, hook it on, then you can use the choke from the seat. It uses a small cotter key to attach it on at the carb.
The lever on the carb should point about straight down when the choke is fully open, if your choke rod is the original length.
The lever on the carb is held on by a screw, loosen the screw and you can turn the lever, if needed. Be sure the screw is tight when done, they loosen sometimes from use.
Below are pics, the lower pic shows how the rod should be bent, so it is above the Touch Control tubes. Then the engine vibration doesn't wear the rod into the tubes. If the rod is rubbing on the tubes when connected to the carb, it probably needs more bend at the bend in the pic. If it needs bending, do that before attaching it to the carburetor.
Cubs have points in the Battery Ignition Unit, they need filing or replacing, or the engine may not start good, or run good. If they haven't been serviced in a long time, they probably need service. The point surfaces should be flat and shiny. I take them out and file them with a large flat file. Wipe off the filings with a clean rag. If they are burned, replacing them is better.
Here is a page from a Cub manual showing how to work on the points.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 674
- Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
- Zip Code: 48843
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Cub not running, need some advice.
I agree with the sorce of leaks 2 & 3. Probably an engine rear seal. Mine's been leaking like that for years. Tractor runs fine, you just have to keep an eye on your oil level, and have a drip pan and floor dry handy.
The first thread in the forum, what to do with a cub you just brought home, should simplify some of the stuff in the manuals.
Fluid changes, including fuel (drain and replace), basic tune up points, plugs, condensor, cap, and rotor. Should be less than $200.
You'll be pleased when you get it running. There's a reason these models have been around and running for 70 yrs. Good luck and welcome.
The first thread in the forum, what to do with a cub you just brought home, should simplify some of the stuff in the manuals.
Fluid changes, including fuel (drain and replace), basic tune up points, plugs, condensor, cap, and rotor. Should be less than $200.
You'll be pleased when you get it running. There's a reason these models have been around and running for 70 yrs. Good luck and welcome.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over.
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