Clutch help

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offrink
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Clutch help

Postby offrink » Sun May 21, 2017 9:02 pm

A couple of years ago I had the clutch redone on a 54 cub. This spring I ended up hearing a rattle at the shaft/pivot on the cub that has the cotter pins showing on the outside of the cub. Only one side rattled and it occasionally rotated. The clutch ground a little so I figured a clutch adjustment was in order. Adjusted it and the rattle is still there but the shifting is smooth and not a problem. I mowed about 4 acres twice this way.

Last Thursday I was powerwashing the deck of the house and decided to clean off the mowing deck and a quick wash of the cub. Just to get some grease/grass/grime off. After I started it up after and let it idle to dry the engine. About 5 minutes later I backed it back into the barn and turned it off.

Yesterday I tried to take my girls for a ride in the trailer being pulled by the cub but it didn't want to go into gear once started and ground the gears a little but the engine/transmission didn't even come close to syncing. I thought it was odd so I shut her off, shifted into first and tried to restart. The tractor attempted to roll forward when the starter was engaged. I did a quick peer into the access hole and the TOB looks good, the clutch peddle moves the clutch, and the rattle is gone.

What should I start to look for and where?

Thanks
Ben

tst
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Re: Clutch help

Postby tst » Sun May 21, 2017 9:29 pm

if the bearing is good check the finger adjustment, clutch pedal should have 1" of free play

offrink
Cub Star!!
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Location: Caledonia, MI

Re: Clutch help

Postby offrink » Sun May 21, 2017 9:36 pm

Clutch finger adjustment and pedal free play appear to be correct.

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Re: Clutch help

Postby Bud-in-PA » Sun May 21, 2017 10:10 pm

As a first step, I would recheck your free travel again. If the locking cap screw wasn't tight enough when you adjusted it the first time, it may have allowed your adjustment to slip to the point that you have too much free travel now which is not allowing your clutch to disengaged.
1955 Cub Lo-boy, 1973 Massey Ferguson 165 Row Crop,
1989 Kubota L3250 TLB, 1947 Ferguson TE-20

tst
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Re: Clutch help

Postby tst » Sun May 21, 2017 10:28 pm

finger height should be between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4", make sure they are all the same height, make sure one of the nuts on the fingers did not fall off, if that is all good, you mentioned washing it, just a out side chance you get a bunch of water in the clutch? perhaps the clutch rusted together so it will not release? small chance but just a thought, you can pull the peddle down by hand while looking in the hole and see if the pressure plate is releasing and the disc should be loose

offrink
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Posts: 336
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Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
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Re: Clutch help

Postby offrink » Mon May 22, 2017 1:55 pm

When the clutch is depressed everything continues to spin. Doesn't slow down at all. If they were rusted together somehow what would be the best way to break it loose without splitting the tractor? I tried to gently tap on the clutch through the access hole but not knowing where to tap I thought it best to leave it before I damaged something or myself.

staninlowerAL
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Re: Clutch help

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon May 22, 2017 2:18 pm

Pilot bearing too tight?

offrink
Cub Star!!
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Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
Location: Caledonia, MI

Re: Clutch help

Postby offrink » Mon May 22, 2017 10:26 pm

Not sure. I will get a chance to pull off the mower and get under it to take a look at the fingers again. I did check the 1" pedal play and it is there. Next step after I make sure everything looks good is come back here and complain and then I'll have to look at splitting it.

offrink
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Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
Location: Caledonia, MI

Re: Clutch help

Postby offrink » Tue May 23, 2017 11:23 am

Checked and fine tuned the clutch fingers and the 1" free play. Still wants to roll the tractor forward when in gear and try to start. Kind of at a loss for what happened in that 3 day span sitting in an enclosed barn that would have made this happen.

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pickerandsinger
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Re: Clutch help

Postby pickerandsinger » Tue May 23, 2017 11:43 am

offrink wrote:Checked and fine tuned the clutch fingers and the 1" free play. Still wants to roll the tractor forward when in gear and try to start. Kind of at a loss for what happened in that 3 day span sitting in an enclosed barn that would have made this happen.
....I once had a D4 that got wet clutches ( long story blub blub) and it was experiencing symptoms ....Maybe your clutch plate got wet from water or oil...any sign of that...Put a "safe "heater of some sort in or blowing in the inspection hole..Light bulb might work...Nothing to lose...Dave
In Memory of 58,286

Waif
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Re: Clutch help

Postby Waif » Tue May 23, 2017 12:35 pm

staninlowerAL wrote:Pilot bearing too tight?


Maybe water sat in the bushing?
The rattle went away so whatever rattled may be set up.

offrink
Cub Star!!
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Posts: 336
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Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
Location: Caledonia, MI

Re: Clutch help

Postby offrink » Tue May 23, 2017 9:08 pm

I have an oil pan heater that's magnetic that may work on heating it up and drying stuff out a little. Worked on it for almost 4 hours today. Got frustrated and left it for the rest of the day. Will try it again tomorrow. After working on it today while the engine ran for a few minutes the rattle came back to what it was previously.

tst
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Re: Clutch help

Postby tst » Tue May 23, 2017 9:19 pm

pilot bearing is brass, it does not rust

Waif
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Re: Clutch help

Postby Waif » Wed May 24, 2017 9:10 am

tst wrote:pilot bearing is brass, it does not rust

Aye.
Dissimilar metals can corrode through contact though.

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Re: Clutch help

Postby Chipmaker » Wed May 24, 2017 9:29 am

Waif wrote:
tst wrote:pilot bearing is brass, it does not rust

Aye.
Dissimilar metals can corrode through contact though.

Corrosion between dissimilar metals and rust are 2 different animals :lol:
God is good, all the time!
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1949 Cub Restoration


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