From magneto to distributor

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Rjpoog1989
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From magneto to distributor

Postby Rjpoog1989 » Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:50 pm

Hi all, it's me again with more problems than solutions.

So this is where my magneto used to go:
Image

I want to put the distributor here, but the bolt is to big to go through the hole.
Image

It fits through the other hole, but then the dist is bumping into other stuff. I'm assuming I'm holding it right side up in the picture.
Also, when I get it attached how do I static time it. I'm going to try to get a timing light, but would like to see if the cub will even run before I go buy that. I have pertronix installed in the distributor. Motor is currently at #1 tdc. My pulley only has 1 notch.
1948 McCormick Deering Farmall Cub: Woods 59 mower
1994 Toro Wheel Horse 312-8: 42" rear discharge deck
Husqvarna 562XP chainsaw: 24" bar w/ skip tooth
Craftsman 18" chainsaw

ScottyD'sdad
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:59 pm

I bore out the hole in the distributor housing, to fit. I hate mags, and have converted several to distributor. I don't do Pertronics, so I can't help you there.
Ed
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:11 pm

As ScottyD' Dad said, you can bore out the hole, or you can replace the original stud with a different one ot give you the right size. Un like him however, I have nothing against magnetos.
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Eugene » Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:16 pm

Auto parts store. You can purchase a stud with two different diameters. One diameter and thread size to fit the block and one diameter to pass through the distributor housing.

I don't do Pertronics either.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Glen
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Glen » Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:24 pm

Hi,
Yes, it is right side up in your pic. The coil goes on top of it.
IH originally used a different stud for the Battery Ignition unit top hole than you have in your pics. They have 2 different sizes on the same stud. The bigger size screws into the engine, and then it tapers down to a smaller size, that goes through the hole in the Battery Ignition unit.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing it, it is number 18 in the pic.

I don't see the Cub coil mounting bracket in your pic, if you are putting the coil on top of the unit, like it originally was, there is a bracket to offset the coil to the right some, because the coil won't fit right with the Cub's generator bracket there.
Below is a listing and pics of how it mounts on, at TM Tractor.
Also a pic from TM Tractor. :)

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-07.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-08.jpg

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/947fp.htm

Remember to grease the unit, remove the 2 plugs with the screw heads, and put in grease fittings that fit the holes, they are bigger threads than most other fittings on a Cub.
For the fitting closest to the distributor cap end, there should be a small hole on the back side of the unit for excess grease to come out.

It should run if you put it together with the rotor pointing to number 1 on the distributor cap.
When you time it with a timing light, it is ok to have 1 mark on the front pulley. Align the marks when it is running at slow idle speed, which should be 475 RPM, the Cub service manual says. Then watch the marks with the timing light as you speed up the engine slowly, the unit should advance the timing slowly as you speed it up, at full throttle it should be advanced about 1/2 inch on the pulley, before TDC.
Attachments
Cub block 4.jpg
Last edited by Glen on Thu Jun 15, 2017 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Rjpoog1989
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Rjpoog1989 » Thu Jun 15, 2017 6:26 pm

Thanks for the quick replies!

ScottyD'sdad wrote:I bore out the hole in the distributor housing, to fit. I hate mags, and have converted several to distributor. I don't do Pertronics, so I can't help you there.
Ed


That's what I was thinking of doing, but didn't want to start drilling holes without asking permission.

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:As ScottyD' Dad said, you can bore out the hole, or you can replace the original stud with a different one ot give you the right size. Un like him however, I have nothing against magnetos.


I'll probably just bore out the hole. I'm not 100% sure the stud that's there will come out, so probably better off leaving it in. I don't think I'd hate the magneto if it functioned like a true magneto, but functioning as a battery ignition seems like a poor setup. If I'm going to have battery ignition, distributor/pertronix seems better in every aspect.

Glen wrote:I don't see the Cub coil mounting bracket in your pic, if you are putting the coil on top of the unit, like it originally was, there is a bracket to offset the coil to the right some, because it won't fit with the Cub's generator bracket there.

Remember to grease the unit, remove the 2 plugs with the screw heads, and put in grease fittings that fit the holes, they are bigger threads than most other fittings on a Cub.
For the fitting closest to the distributor cap end, there should be a small hole on the back side of the unit for excess grease to come out.

It should run if you put it together with the rotor pointing to number 1 on the distributor cap.
When you time it with a timing light, it is ok to have 1 mark on the front pulley. Align the marks when it is running at slow idle speed, which should be 475 RPM, the Cub service manual says. Then watch the marks with the timing light as you speed up the engine slowly, the unit should advance the timing slowly as you speed it up, at full throttle it should be advanced about 1/2 inch on the pulley, before TDC.


There's a mounting bracket there where my coil was before. The distributor came with the bracket you mentioned, but I wasn't planning to mount the coil there.

I didn't know about greasing the unit, but I'll be sure to do so.

I was hoping it would run with rotor pointed to #1 just like you said. I'll probably need to get a tachometer as well as timing light to really get things right.

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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Glen » Thu Jun 15, 2017 7:18 pm

Hi,
The original style coil bracket gets the coil under the hood, and out of the rain.
Here is a page from the Cub owner's manual telling about greasing the Battery Ignition unit. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2041.jpg

ScottyD'sdad
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Posts: 6510
Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:00 pm
Zip Code: 02769
Tractors Owned: 6"F" cubs
5 lo-boys
1 154
1 184
1 IH444
1 Oliver OC3 crawler
1 AC D10
1 IH 100 manure spreader
1 IH model B corn grinder
3 power units
cub demonstrator
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Ma. Rehoboth

Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Fri Jun 16, 2017 1:27 pm

I don't want to risk breaking the stud, that's why I drill the hole bigger.
Ed
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Matt Kirsch » Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:47 pm

IMHO timing with a timing light is a waste because these distributors are often well worn and you're just chasing your tail. What works best for me is just timing by ear. Get it running at just above low idle and then tweak the timing until it runs best. Further fine tuning may be required to get the engine to rev up smoothly. When both of those criteria are met, the engine is at optimum timing.

Rjpoog1989
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Rjpoog1989 » Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:52 pm

So it seems as though I've fried the starter. Last time I tried to start the cub it quit, but I assumed it was the battery that was dead. Apparently not...
1948 McCormick Deering Farmall Cub: Woods 59 mower
1994 Toro Wheel Horse 312-8: 42" rear discharge deck
Husqvarna 562XP chainsaw: 24" bar w/ skip tooth
Craftsman 18" chainsaw

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Glen
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
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Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Glen » Fri Jun 16, 2017 4:55 pm

Hi,
The battery cable ends might be dirty and not letting power through. Try taking the 4 connections off, one at a time, and sanding and cleaning the surfaces where they contact. Remove the ground cable from the battery first, and leave it disconnected while working on the system.
The starter might not be grounding through it's mounting at the engine, people have said on here they had to sand the end of the starter and the engine, where they touch together. :)
Last edited by Glen on Fri Jun 16, 2017 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Jun 16, 2017 8:11 pm

If you have a hand crank try turning the engine. If it will not turn the starter drive gear Is probably jammed against the ring gear. If so, with ignition off put cub in 3rd, and grab a wheel and rock back and forth till you see fan blade move. If you cannot get it freed that way, loosen the 2 starter mounting bolts as turn or two and try again.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

Rjpoog1989
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Re: From magneto to distributor

Postby Rjpoog1989 » Sat Jun 17, 2017 8:18 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:If you have a hand crank try turning the engine. If it will not turn the starter drive gear Is probably jammed against the ring gear. If so, with ignition off put cub in 3rd, and grab a wheel and rock back and forth till you see fan blade move. If you cannot get it freed that way, loosen the 2 starter mounting bolts as turn or two and try again.


The motor does turn with the hand crank.

My father in law was in today and we were talking tractors. He was saying something about hand cranking his Allis, and for kicks, I tried starting the cub with the hand crank. Bam, she fired right up. I was so surprised by this I forgot where the choke was for a second and it choked it self out. Cranked again and she fired, opened choke and she ran like a top. I guess it's just by luck that the timing is even close, but it sounded the best I've ever heard it run. Moral of the story: who needs a starter when you've got a hand crank!!

Now for the bad: my hydrolics still don't work, so I need to tear apart the touch control and see what I put together wrong when I attempted the rebuild.
1948 McCormick Deering Farmall Cub: Woods 59 mower
1994 Toro Wheel Horse 312-8: 42" rear discharge deck
Husqvarna 562XP chainsaw: 24" bar w/ skip tooth
Craftsman 18" chainsaw


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