Re-torqueing head bolts.

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LRiddle
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Re-torqueing head bolts.

Postby LRiddle » Sun Jul 02, 2017 7:49 pm

So I got my friends tractor running steady so we got it to my gouse for more thorough work. One thing I noticed when I got the hood off was some moisture around one of the head bolts, so I figure it's coolant wicking up the threads. My plan is to torque the other head bolts to spec and then remove the offending bolt and seal the threads and the possibly go around and remove and reseal the others one at a time for good measure. Am I heading in the right direction here? Is there anything else you would do, or anything you would do differently? Hoping to do this without needing a new gasket. Thanks in advance.
Luke Riddle
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1951 Cub - Chesty



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staninlowerAL
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Re: Re-torqueing head bolts.

Postby staninlowerAL » Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:10 pm

There have been some posts on this topic but only on a newly rebuilt engine or new head installation. Is this the same tractor that you posted about doing a friend a favor to repair the tractor? It might not work out as well on bolts that have been installed for a while. Probably the best to hope for is that they all will come out without breaking one but if that happens then head removal is the next step, then remove whatever is damaged. IMHO, I would only remove what appears to be leaking to minimize the risk of further problems.

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LRiddle
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1951 Farmall Cub - Chesty

Woods 59 belly mower

54A blade

1956 Gravely L

Dozer blade

Tiller

Rotary Plow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Tallmadge, OH

Re: Re-torqueing head bolts.

Postby LRiddle » Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:13 pm

staninlowerAL wrote:There have been some posts on this topic but only on a newly rebuilt engine or new head installation. Is this the same tractor that you posted about doing a friend a favor to repair the tractor? It might not work out as well on bolts that have been installed for a while. Probably the best to hope for is that they all will come out without breaking one but if that happens then head removal is the next step, then remove whatever is damaged. IMHO, I would only remove what appears to be leaking to minimize the risk of further problems.


Yes it is the same tractor. It makes sense to only do the one when you put it like that. I think I will do it that way and see if others pose a problem. Thanks.
Luke Riddle
Tallmadge, Ohio
1951 Cub - Chesty



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Re: Re-torqueing head bolts.

Postby BigBill » Mon Jul 03, 2017 12:21 pm

I have a can of #2 permatex. I clean off the old sealant with a wire wheel on the grinder(headbolts). Then they get washed. When I install any head that is water cooled each bolt gets #2 sealant on the threads. The headgasket gets sprayed with permatex high tac sealer.

I learned this process building drag race engines. It's fool proof. Don't forget to retorque the headbolts after a few times of running it.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Bill Hudson
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Re: Re-torqueing head bolts.

Postby Bill Hudson » Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:49 pm

Luke,

I removed a leaking head,bolt, cleaned it up, applied a sealant, torqued it down and it has not leaked since. That was five or six years ago and this is the main Cub that I use regularly.

Bill
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LRiddle
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Posts: 488
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2016 11:57 am
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Tractors Owned: .
1951 Farmall Cub - Chesty

Woods 59 belly mower

54A blade

1956 Gravely L

Dozer blade

Tiller

Rotary Plow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Tallmadge, OH

Re: Re-torqueing head bolts.

Postby LRiddle » Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:28 pm

Bill Hudson wrote:Luke,

I removed a leaking head,bolt, cleaned it up, applied a sealant, torqued it down and it has not leaked since. That was five or six years ago and this is the main Cub that I use regularly.

Bill


Nice. That's what I like too hear. I did the leaking one last night. Fingers crossed.
Luke Riddle
Tallmadge, Ohio
1951 Cub - Chesty



"You can't believe everything you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln


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